WO1996027363A1

WO1996027363A1 - Hair- and skin-treatment agent

Info

Publication number: WO1996027363A1
Application number: PCT/EP1996/000652
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rudolf Bimczok; Eugen Konrad
Original assignee: Wella Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date: 1995-03-07
Filing date: 1996-02-15
Publication date: 1996-09-12
Also published as: JPH10500144A; DE19507905A1; ES2099058T1; EP0759738A1; BR9605882A

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic agent suitable for treatment of both the skin and the hair and containing a combination of: a) 0.1 to 25 % by wt. of at least one salt of choline of an inorganic acid or an inorganic carboxylic acid or a polyacrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer; and b) 0.1 to 10 % by wt. of at least one physiologically compatible aliphatic organic acid. The agent proposed can be used as a hair-treatment agent, a skin-treatment agent or a hair- and skin-treatment agent. The agent improves the wet-combing characteristics of the hair, shows good compatibility with the scalp and gives the hair a soft feel and good shine. The agent proposed shows good compatibility with the skin and eyes, gives the hair a well groomed appearance and is also biodegradable.

Description

Hair and skin treatment products

Frequent washing, perming and dyeing make the hair brittle and lackluster. In addition, the hair becomes electrostatically charged and the roughened hair surface leads to matting. This makes combing the hair very difficult.

On the skin, frequent washing with degreasing surfactants leads to a rough, brittle skin surface.

Hair and skin treatment agents with a combability-improving and nourishing effect have therefore gained considerable importance.

Cationic surfactants in combination with various waxy additives such as petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters are mainly used as active ingredients to improve the hair structure and skin surface. Hair and skin treatment compositions on this basis, however, show satisfactory results only in the treatment of dry and porous hair or dry and porous skin. For the treatment of quickly regreasing hair / skin they are less suitable because their use increases the natural regreasing. The causes of the strong regreasing are above all the cationic emulsifiers contained in these agents.

The object was therefore to provide a hair and / or skin treatment agent based on a conditioning active ingredient which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above.

It has now been found that a water-containing cosmetic agent containing a combination of

a) 0.1 to 25 weight percent of at least one

Choline salt of an inorganic acid or an organic carboxylic acid or a polyacrylic acid homo- or copolymer

and

b) 0.1 to 10 percent by weight of at least one physiologically compatible aliphatic organic acid

fulfills the task perfectly. The agent according to the invention improves the wet combability of the hair, is well tolerated by the scalp and gives the hair a pleasant handle and a beautiful shine. The agent according to the invention has good skin and eye tolerance, gives the skin a well-groomed appearance and is also readily biodegradable. The choline salt contained as component a) in the composition according to the invention is either the salt of a physiologically tolerable inorganic acid or the salt of an organic carboxylic acid, aliphatic organic polyhydroxycarboxylic acids having 4 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in the molecule being excluded are, or the salt of a polyacrylic acid.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains 3 to 15 percent by weight of at least one choline salt of an inorganic acid or an aliphatic organic carboxylic acid or of polyacrylic acid homo- or copolymer, which is preferably selected from choline citrate, choline tartrate, choline chloride or choline polyacrylate.

For the production of the choline polyacrylate is polyacrylic acid (CTFA: carbomer), which, for example under the trade name Carbopol 934,

_ _

Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 954 from the company

B. F. Goodrich / USA is suitable.

The aliphatic acid of component b) contained in the agent according to the invention is preferably selected from citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, undecylenic acid, glycolic acid and glyoxylic acid and is preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5 percent by weight in the hair and skin treatment according to the invention. medium included. The agent according to the invention is preferably free of cationic surfactants.

The agent according to the invention can be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a lotion, an emulsion or a gel and can be sprayed using a propellant or with the aid of a mechanically operated spraying device.

If the agent according to the invention is sprayed with the aid of a propellant, it preferably contains 3 to 75 percent by weight of the propellant and is filled in a pressure vessel.

Lower alkanes, for example n-butane, i-butane and propane, are also suitable as blowing agents, or else their mixtures with dimethyl ether and also suitable at the pressures in question gaseous blowing agents, such as N ₂ , N ₂ 0 and C0 _2, and mixtures of the blowing agents mentioned above.

Mechanical spray devices are to be understood as those devices which make it possible to spray a liquid without using a propellant. A suitable mechanical spraying device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, into which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent continuously as a result of the contraction of the elastic container when the spray valve is opened is used.

The hair and skin treatment composition according to the invention preferably has a water content of 10 to 98 percent by weight and a pH of 2 to 8.

The agent according to the invention can be present as a hair treatment agent, as a skin treatment agent and as a hair and skin treatment agent.

A hair treatment composition according to the invention can additionally contain all those constituents which are usually used in hair treatment compositions, in particular anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, emulsifiers, foam synergists; Foam stabilizers; Sequestrants, natural products; Pigments; Perfume oils in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight; Opacifiers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 0.2 to 5.0 percent by weight; Pearlescent dispersions, such as a mixture of fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 1.0 to 10.0 percent by weight; Thickeners, such as, for example, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide or hydroxyalkyl cellulose, in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 percent by weight; Buffer substances such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; and hair and product colorants, such as, for example, fluorescein sodium salt, yellow ZN 3 (CI 47055), in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 percent by weight; further hair care additives such as amino acids, proteins, herbal extracts, betaines, vitamins, carbohydrates and derivatives, urea, essential oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, ethoxylated or propoxylated saturated fatty alcohols; natural, modified natural or synthetic polymers such as shellac or polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, cationic, anionic or non- ionic cellulose derivatives, chitosan, cationic chitin or chitosan derivatives or polymers of acrylic acid derivatives; Care substances, such as lanolin derivatives, cholesterol and pantothenic acid, in an amount of 0.1 to 10 percent by weight; also physiologically acceptable inorganic salts, such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate; as well as humectants; Sunscreen; Antioxidants; Complexing agent; Anti-dandruff active ingredients, such as, for example, the 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-rimethylpentyl) -2 (1H-pyridone) monoethanolamine salt marketed under the trade name Octopirox by Hoechst AG, Frankfurt, FRG; nourishing lipids of mineral or biogenic origin, such as, for example, cosmetic oils, fats, terpenes, steroids and waxes, and also preservatives, to the extent that such additives appear useful and expedient and are compatible with the components of the agent according to the invention.

The agent according to the invention can be present as a hair care agent, for example as a hair conditioner or hair treatment, and as a hair setting agent, as a hair or skin cleanser, as a skin cream or body lotion. A special embodiment of the agent according to the invention is an agent for setting the hair, which in addition to the combination of components a) and b) according to the invention

(Cj) 0.01 to 25 percent by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of at least one natural or synthetic polymer and

(d _j ) 10 to 98 percent by weight of an alcohol or water or a water-alcohol mixture.

contains.

In particular, C 1 -C ₄ -alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used in the hair-setting agent according to the invention.

If the cosmetic agent according to the invention is used as a skin or hair cleaning agent, it contains, in addition to the combination of components a) and b), anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants (component C ₂ ) in an amount of 0.01 to 40 percent by weight, preferably 0.1 to 25 percent by weight and water (component d ₂ ) in an amount of 50 to 90 percent by weight. The pH of the skin or Hair detergent is between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 7. The surfactants mentioned can also be used in mixtures.

If the cosmetic agent according to the invention is used for skin treatment, it can be in the form of solutions, suspensions, pastes, gels or emulsions, but preferably in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions and preferably packaged as a skin cream or body lotion.

The skin treatment agent according to the invention can additionally contain all those constituents which are normally used in skin treatment agents, in particular anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, for example oxyethylated fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example with up to 40 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fat. alcohol-ethoxylated lauryl, cetyl or stearyl alcohol, alkylbetaines, alkylaminobetaines, alkylsulfobetaine and fatty acid alkylamido betaines in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 percent by weight; Sequestering agents; Emulsifiers; Natural substances, such as vitamins, preferably vitamins E and B6, D-panthenol, amino acids such as betaine, cysteine, alanine, valine or tyrosine, proteins, carbohydrates and derivatives or plant extracts, pigments, perfume oils, essential oils, in a Amount from 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight; Opacifiers such as ethylene glycol distearate in an amount of about 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight; Humectants, such as glycerol, polyols, hyaluronic acid and urea, in an amount of 0.05 to 20 percent by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10 percent by weight; Pearlescent dispersions, such as a mixture of fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 0.5 to 10.0 percent by weight; Thickeners, such as, for example, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, polyacrylic acid (CTFA carbomer), as sold under the trade name Carbopol by BF Goodrich / USA, or hydroxyalkyl cellulose, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; and dyes such as fluorescein sodium salt, yellow ZN3 (CI 47 055), in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 percent by weight; further skin care additives, such as care lipids of mineral or biogenic origin, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, terpenes, steroids; natural, modified natural or synthetic polymers, such as, for example, cationic, anionic or nonionic cellulose derivatives, chitosan, cationic chitin or chitosan derivatives, care substances, such as, for example, lanolin derivatives, cholesterol, allantoin, alpha-bisabolol, azulene and pantothenic acid, in an amount of 0 , 01 to 10 percent by weight; also physiologically acceptable inorganic salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate; as well as light stabilizers; Anti-oxidants; Complexing agent; Titanium dioxide; cosmetic oils and waxes and preservatives, to the extent that such additives appear useful and expedient and are compatible with the components of the preparation used.

The pH of the cosmetic agent for skin treatment according to the invention is preferably 4 to 7. The cosmetic agent for skin treatment according to the invention can contain up to 95 percent by weight of water. The cosmetic agent for skin treatment according to the invention preferably has a water content of 50 to 90 percent by weight.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention.

Examples

Example 1: Hair care emulsion

10.0 g of choline citrate

5.0 g citric acid

3.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol

0.5 g mixture of sodium cetyl sulfate and

Sodium stearyl sulfate

1.5 g wool wax alcohol

1.0 g glycerol monostearate palminate

0.2 g salicylic acid

0.2 g of methyl p-hydroxybenzoate

0.3 g of perfume oil

78.3-3 water

100.0

After shampooing, the hair care emulsion is evenly distributed in a heavily matted, porous hair. After a contact time of 5 to 10 minutes, the hair is rinsed out with warm water. This treatment results in a very smooth grip on the hair and very good wet combability. Example 2: Hair conditioner

10.0 g choline chloride

2.0 g lactic acid

0.2 g salicylic acid

87.8 g water

100.0 g

This hair conditioner is well distributed on towel-dried porous hair after shampooing. After an exposure time of 5 to 10 minutes, the hair conditioner is rinsed out with warm water. The hair is significantly less matted and easier to comb.

Example 3 Hair Fixer!

0.5 g choline tartrate

0.1 g glyoxylic acid

40.0 g of isopropanol

2.0 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer 60/40

0.3 g of perfume oil

57.1 —s water

100, 0 The hair setting agent is applied to the towel-dried hair after shampooing. The hair is then rolled up on water wave curlers. After the hair has dried, a good hair fixation, an improved durability of the hairstyle and a very smooth handle of the hair can be found.

Example 4: Anti-dandruff shampoo

11.2 g of sodium lauryl ether sulfate

5.0 g of choline chloride

0.5 g of undecylenic acid

0.2 g of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4, -trimethylpentyl) -2 (1H-pyridone) monoethanolamine salt

0.3 g of perfume oil

3.0 g of sodium chloride

0.1 g sodium formate

79. 7-2 water

100, 0

This anti-dandruff shampoo is characterized by an excellent anti-dandruff effect with good scalp tolerance. In addition, it makes the hair easy to comb. Example 5: Shampoo for hair and skin

8.0 g of choline citrate

2.0 g of lactic acid

0.2 g of salicylic acid

11.2 g of sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution

2.0 g of sodium chloride

0.2 g perfume oil

76.4-3 water

100.0 g

The hair washed with the shampoo according to the invention of the above composition shows very good wet combability. The skin washed with the shampoo according to Example 5 has a smooth, soft skin surface.

Example 6: Skin care cream

2.0 g of choline citrate

3.0 g of glycolic acid

5.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol

1.0 g sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate

2.0 g of wool wax alcohol

5.0 g petroleum jelly

10.0 g paraffin oil

1.0 g glycerol monostearate

0.2 g salicylic acid

0.2 g of methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid

0.2 g perfume oil

70.4 _s water

100.0 g

After washing, the skin care cream is applied to the dried skin and distributed. The skin then feels smooth and supple.

Example 7: Oil-in-water body lotion

10.0 g cetyl stearyl octanoate

3.0 g sorbitan stearate

3.0 g polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan onolaurate

4.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol

1.0 g dimethylpolysiloxane

0.1 g methyl paraben

0.4 g choline polyacrylate

5.0 g glycerin

0.3 g choline citrate

0.5 g lactic acid

72.7 _s water, softened

100.0

The body lotion according to Example 7 can be distributed well on the skin, is quickly absorbed, increases the skin moisture and leaves a pleasant feeling.

All percentages given in the registration represent percentages by weight.

Claims

claims

1. A water-based cosmetic product containing a combination of

a) 0.1 to 25 percent by weight of at least one choline salt of an inorganic acid or an organic carboxylic acid or Polyacryl¬ acid homo- or copolymer and

b) 0.1 to 10 percent by weight of at least one physiologically compatible aliphatic organic acid.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains 3 to 15 percent by weight of the choline salt.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains as choline salt, choline citrate, choline tartrate, choline chloride or choline polyacrylate.

4. Cosmetic agent according to one of the claims

1 to 3, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of the physiologically compatible aliphatic organic acid.

5. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to

4, characterized in that it contains citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, undecylenic acid, glycolic acid or glyoxylic acid as the aliphatic organic acid.

6. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to

5, characterized in that the aliphatic organic acid is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5 percent by weight.

7. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to

6, characterized in that it is present as a means of strengthening the hair and in addition

c _x ) 0.01 to 25 percent by weight of at least one natural or synthetic polymer and

d _x ) 10 to 98 percent by weight of an alcohol, water or a water-alcohol mixture

contains.

8. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is present as a skin or hair cleaning agent and in addition c ₂ ) 0.01 to 40 weight percent anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants or a mixture thereof and

d ₂ ) 50 to 90 weight percent water

contains.

Use of a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 6 as a hair care agent or skin treatment agent.