Fashionable technology the intersection of design, fashion, science and technology by ThuyDuong Le

Sabine Seymour Fashionable Technology The Intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology

Fashionable Technology The Intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology

Sabine Seymour www.fashionabletechnology.org, www.moondial.com This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically those of translation, reprinting, re-use of illustrations, broadcasting, reproduction by photocopying machines or similar means, and storage in data banks. Product Liability The publisher can give no guarantee for the information contained in this book. This also refers to that on drug dosage and application thereof. In each individual case the respective user must check the accuracy of the information given by consulting other pharmaceutical literature. The use of registered names, trademarks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. This book is sponsored by

ImpulsProgramm creativwirtschaft by austria wirtschaftsservice

Bundesministerium für Unterricht, Kunst und Kultur

Kunstuniversität Linz

Kulturabteilung der Stadt Wien, Wissenschafts- und Forschungsförderung

© 2008 Springer-Verlag/Wien Printed in Austria SpringerWienNewYork is a part of Springer Science + Business Media springer.at Cover Image Philips Design Back Cover Image Gene Kiegel, www.genekiegel.com Graphic Design Mahir Mustafa Yavuz Research Assistance Hannah Perner-Wilson Copy Editor Kai Eric Hylfelt Printing and binding: Holzhausen Druck & Medien GmbH, 1140 Vienna Printed on acid-free and chlorine-free bleached paper SPIN: 12031238 Library of Congress Control Number: 2007933580 With 267 colored figures ISBN 978-3-211-74498-7 SpringerWienNewYork

Contents Preface

Theoretical Discourse

Electronic Fashion

Interactive Interfaces

Scientific Couture

Sensual Being & Tangible Touch

Wearable Explorations

110

Social Fabric

138

Sonic Landscape

158

Material Witness

174

Project Websites

196

Materials

202

Bibliography

216

Blogs & Websites

226

Institutes

232

Events

238

Photo Credits

244

Acknowledgements

247

Biography

249

Preface Fashion and technology, science and design are contrasting notions that will be explored in this work. The idea for this book arose a few years ago when I realized the need for reference material for my students and fellow researchers. In addition, I wanted to convey my concept on the amalgamation of technology and fashion. Over the years more people and more people have become interested in the ever-expanding field of fashionable technology. Some approach it purely with regard to future style while others are drawn to its technical potential and the combining of ‘hard’ technology with ‘soft’ textile. The many precedents that were brought to my attention resulted in a proposition to create a comprehensive collection of projects and resources about fashionable technology. The theoretical discourse in this book intends to provide an initiation to fashionable technology. It addresses the major concepts and provides a detailed bibliography that points to additional publications. The list of materials, blogs, institutes and events affords a starting point for further explorations in this expanding field. Many of the projects in this book are conceptual in nature and others are actual commercial products. However, all capture the imagination in their various proposals on the future meaning and purpose of clothing. Some of the projects were slightly difficult to categorize singularly as they incorporated aspects that were applicable to diverse chapters yet all of these projects are inspirational and stimulating. This book aims to present a compact body of work in the field of fashionable technology.

Fashionable Technology

Fashionable Technology1 refers to the intersection of design, fashion, science, and technology.

Fashionable Wearables Fashionable wearables are ‘designed’ garments, accessories, or jewelry that combine aesthetics and style with functional technology. As designers of fashionable wearables, we view end users as fashionable beings who are attentive to style and the powerful potential of wearable technologies. Our design philosophy is based on the notion that garments are the immediate interface to the environment and thus are a constant transmitter and receiver of emotions, experiences, and meaning. ‘... the electric age ushers us into a world in which we live and breathe and listen with the entire epidermis’2 Marshall McLuhan’s observation describes the garment as being an interface to the exterior mediated through digital technology. Fashionable wearables have great expressive potential that is amplified through the use of technology. The limitless possibilities for the immediate dynamic personalization of clothing are fascinating and current experimentation in the area is showing great promise. Today, fashionable wearables are mediators of information and amplifiers of fantasy.3 In our contemporary world fashion is synonymous with style, dress, adornment, decoration, and clothing. As a communication medium it has unlimited potential. Many wearers of technology are engaged through the mechanisms of fashion. However, fashionable wearables are much more than mere fashion. They incorporate technological elements that transform them into interactive interfaces.

1 Sabine Seymour coined the term Fashionable Technology in 2000. 2 McLuhan (1995, 122) 3 In chapter 11 Rheingold (2000) addresses Alan Kay’s characterization of a fantasy amplifier.

Context

‘An aesthetic explanation is not a causal explanation.’4 The context of use is tremendously important when creating meaningful fashionable wearables. While aesthetically pleasing design is an integral part of the success of a fashionable wearable, the context truly determines the functional and expressive definition of a fashionable wearable. Early wearables were functional but awkward to wear and to look at. Today wearables are rapidly rising to meet the fashion world on its own terms by producing garments that are both stylish and comfortable. Personalization of wearables allows for new modes of self-expression, which is an essential factor in making fashion items that appeal to the public.

Functions ‘All clothes have social, psychological and physical functions.’5 Through technology the functions of clothing can be enhanced and new ones are defined. Material (or physical functions) functions are protection, concealment, and attraction. Cultural functions (including social and psychological functions) are communication, individualistic expression, social or economic status, political or religious affiliation.6 Fashionable wearables can enhance the cognitive characteristics of our epidermis. Our clothing is often referred to as our second skin. Today this is more than just a metaphor as advances in technology produce fabrics that mimic many of the skin’s properties.

4 Wittgenstein, Ludwig edited by Barrett, Cyril (2007, 18) 5 Bolton (2002, 10) 6 Barnard (2002, 49–71) describes the various functions of clothing.

Fashionable wearables range in levels of expressiveness versus functionality. 1

expressiveness

3 functionality

1 The fashionable wearables in the high fashion realm are expressive and the functionality is less important. 2 The fashionable wearables have a defined function and some need to be stylish. Sportswear and health-monitoring garments require this duality. 3 The functionality is the focal point. In workwear the necessity for personal expression is limited by strict pre-defined functionalities and restrictions.

Degree Of Body & Technology Integration »

Handheld (i.e. mobile devices)

Wearable (i.e. fashionable wearables) »

Clothing is the container for technology

The technology is physically embedded into clothing or textile

Technical and scientific advances are integrated into the fabric

substrates »

Implanted (i.e. implants, tattoos)

The current degree of integration between the body and technology demonstrates the level to which our bodies are rapidly becoming extensions for technical advances.

Technology

Technology and fashion are not as distant from each other as it might first seem. The thread-up and thread-down of the weaving process corresponds to the 0 and 1 binary logic of computer circuitry.7

Wearable Computing Ed Thorpe and Claude Shannon revealed the first wearable computer in 1966. It was a cigarette-pack sized analog computer with four buttons to indicate the speed of a roulette wheel and the predicted results were transmitted by radio to an earpiece. In 1981 Steve Mann created a backpack-mounted computer to control his photographic equipment. 8 ‘A wearable computer is a computer that is subsumed into the personal space of the user, controlled by the user, and has both operational and interactional constancy, i.e. is always on and always accessible.’9 The term ‘wearable technologies’ refers particularly to the electrical engineering, physical computing, and wireless communication networks that make a fashionable wearable functional. Today, the development rate of wearable technologies is accelerating rapidly and our vision is becoming reality. Processing power is doubling at light speed, components are miniaturizing, alternative energies are becoming viable options, and ubiquitous computing is pervasive.

Embedded Technologies Embedded technologies influence the wearability, comfort and aesthetic of a fashionable wearable. The incorporation of technology depends on the context of use and the desired interaction between the fashionable wearable and its surrounding environment. The main technical components10 used for the creation of fashionable wearables are:

7 Seymour, Sabine in Lumsden (2008) 8 Rhodes, Bradley: A brief history of wearable computing: www.media.mit.edu/wearables/lizzy/timeline.html (1998) 9 Mann, Steve: Definition of Wearable Computer: http://wearcomp.org/wearcompdef.html (1998) 10

O’Sullivan & Igoe (2006) offer an overview of all components used in physical computing.

Interfaces (connectors, wires, antennas, …)

Microprocessors

Inputs (sensors, …)

Outputs (actuators, …)

Software

Energy (batteries, solar panels, …)

Materials (electronic textiles, enhanced materials, …)

The microprocessor is a single-chip computer that can run and store a program. It collects and computes data derived through various interfaces from the input sources. This computation is necessary to address the outputs on either the garment itself or to signal external devices. Cell phones typify external devices that are able to compute and deliver extensive data through diverse communication networks.

Inputs

The required interaction with the fashionable wearable determines the input and output. Active inputs can be consciously controlled by a wearer using a tactile or acoustic feedback system that allows an intuitive use of the garment. Passive inputs are typically biometric data gathered from the body or automatic data feeds via wireless transmission using environmental data. Origin

Inputs (Examples)

Person

pressure, bend, motion, biometric data, sound, visuals, humidity, proximity, orientation, displacement, smell, acceleration

Environment

light, humidity, sound, temperature, smoke, microparticles, visual

Textile Sensors Body-sensing technologies must be close to the skin to be effective and are the perfect candidates for integration into a textile. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fibre sensors, which are capable of measuring temperature, strain/stress, gas, biological species and smell, are typical smart fibres that can be directly applied to textilesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.11 Through textile sensors our physical and emotional state can be captured through the ever changing properties of our epidermis. Sensors can detect blushing, sweating, and variations in tension and temperature. The actuators then respond by producing specific types of output.

Embedded Sensors Today many fashionable wearables are using conventional sensors to capture data. These sensors are embedded into the fashionable wearable and their proper placement on the garment is essential to be able to capture the requisite data. Typical embedded sensors measure a variety of data types ranging from proximity to smell. They can collect data derived from the human body as well as environmental data like light, humidity, temperature, sound or smoke. The data is captured as input and computed using a microprocessor.

Tao (2001, 4)

Outputs

A garment is seen, felt, touched, heard, and smelled. The many output options can stimulate any of our five senses. » Touch »

Sound

Visual

Scent

Taste

The variables captured from the input sources are software-based data and consequently allow computation that in turn determines the output. Outputs can stimulate the senses of the wearer or his audience. For example shape memory alloys change the silhouette of a fashionable wearable making it a visual interface for an audience and a tactile experience for the wearer. In another case a motor, initiated by data processed via a microprocessor, activates scent capsules. The options are endless and depend on the requirements. The table below provides suggestions for outputs to address specific senses. Sense

Ouputs (Examples)

Visual

LEDs, thermochromic inks, photochromic inks, EL wires, E-ink, (alphanumeric) displays

Sound Touch

speakers, buzzers motors/actuators, shape memory alloys, conductive yarns, conductive fabrics

Smell, Taste

scent capsules

Communication

The simple act of showing or sharing emotion takes on new meaning when two people are connected via a wireless network. If one thinks of the other the jewelry or garment can now react. This immediate feedback over distance can be achieved by wearable technologies and wireless communication.

Ubiquitous Computing At the Xerox Palo Alto Research Center Mark Weiser coined the term ‘ubiquitous computing’.12 Ubiquitous means that computing is seemingly present everywhere, but in the case of wearables it is actually embedded in clothing and accessories. Wearables are true extensions of the idea of incorporating ubiquitous computing into our everyday objects. In the late 1990s IBM coined the term ‘pervasive computing’, which is often used synonymously with ubiquitous computing.13

Wireless Communication Wireless communication allows for the transmission of data without the use of wires. The ability to distribute data over wireless networks from a system attached to the body was a significant turning point in the development of wearables. Below is a list of the most common wireless communication and navigation systems used in the design of fashionable wearables. »

UMTS (Universal Mobile Telecommunications System)

GPRS (General Packet Radio Service)

GMS (Global System for Mobile communications)

WIFI

Bluetooth

IR (Infrared)

Location-based: »

GPS (Global Positioning System)

Cell triangulation

12 Weiser, Mark: The Computer for the 21st Century In Scientific American: http://nano.xerox.com/hypertext/weiser/SciAmDraft3.html (1991, 94-100) 13

Hansmann (2001, 11)

On The Body Thomas Zimmerman and Neil Gershenfeld conceived the term Personal Area Network (PAN) at the MIT Media Lab in 1995. It describes a concept for transferring data using the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own electrical conductivity. Today PAN is used to describe self-contained networks on the body. The term Body Area Network is used similarly and was derived from the medical field.14 The transfer of data captured from the body can be transferred via a wide range of networked communication protocols over distances. In addition the data can be distributed on the body through textile-based conductive wires or transmitted via textile antennas.

Lee (2005)

Materials

The use of enhanced materials and textiles in conjunction with current research in nanotechnologies, biotechnologies, and digital technologies will lead us to a fashionable wearable that is a true integration of essential function and aesthetic design.

Electronic Textiles Technically enhanced textiles are significant enablers in the creation of fashionable wearables and are generally referred to as electronic textiles. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;An electronic textile refers to a textile substrate that incorporates capabilities for sensing (biometric or external), communication (usually wireless), power transmission, and interconnection technology to connect sensors and microprocessors to allow such sensors or things such as information processing devices to be networked together within a fabric.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15

Nanotechnology & Microfibers Nanotechnology operates on a molecular level. Carbon nanotubes can provide thermal and electrical conductivity while allowing the textile to maintain the touch and feel of a typical textile.16 The manipulation of molecules produces microfibers. The microcapsules in microfibers can contain a variety of active agents such as medication, vitamins, antibacterial products, or moisturizers. Microencapsulated PCMs (Phase Changing Materials) can be applied as a finish on fabrics or infused into the fibers during the manufacturing process to provide a buffer against temperature swings.17

Biomimetics Biomimetics is an area of biotechnology where the processes and properties of nature are being mimicked through the use of bioactive materials. We now have the capability to grow our own versions of nature using tissue engineering and culturing materials from live organisms like spider silk, human skin cells, and transgenic goats.18

Berzowska, Joanna in Jeffries (2005, 60)

www.nanotex.com

www.outlast.com

Braddock Clarke & Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Mahony (2006)

Energy

The computation of captured data through microprocessors on the body requires energy that today is delivered primarily by batteries. However, a batteryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life is limited and its effects on the human body have yet to be evaluated in depth. The quest for alternative energy sources for fashionable wearables is essential. Developers of fashionable wearables will have to find new and improved solutions to acquire the needed energy that will allow microprocessors to operate reliably.

Alternative Energy Organic photovoltaics can generate enough electricity to charge a battery worn on the human body while allowing for a more sustainable approach. Solar energy is frequently used as a power source and uses solar panels incorporated onto the surface of a fashionable wearable.19 An interesting and attractive alternative energy source for intelligent clothing is the human body itself, which can generate power derived through body movement or fluctuations in body temperature. Today the energy that can be harvested through human kinetics or bodily heatexchange can only be measured in microwatts. Thus it is currently too small to drive wearable technologies. True sustainable energy production for wearables has still a ways to go despite recent breakthroughs in fuel cells and energy harvesting fiber-based nanogenerators.

Stuart, Irvine in Kasap & Capper (2006)

Garment Construction

Embedded technologies in the garment and the functionalities integrated into the electronic textiles influence the ‘wearability’20, comfort and the aesthetic of a fashionable wearable. Considering these factors is an essential part of the design process when creating user-centered fashionable wearables. Designers have to have a comprehensive understanding of the purpose, the user, the interaction, and in commercial applications, the right price point. An appealing design in combination with an intuitive interface will make for a successful fashionable wearable.

Design Considerations The many considerations for the construction of fashionable wearables are based on body ergonomics, perception, functionality, technology, materials, energy and environmental impact. The table below can be used as a guideline for the construction of fashionable wearables. Factor

Considerations

Body

placement, form language, human movement,

ergonomics/

proximity, sizing, attachments, weight, accessibility,

wearability

heat, body shape, comfort, cut of the garment, compartments

Perception

aesthetics, look & feel, design, cultural and psychological functions

Functionality

usable interaction with the system (inputs & outputs), wearer’s control, modular construction for multi-purpose

Technology

ubiquitous computing, sensor technology, embedded systems design, physical computing

Materials

interactive or reactive materials/textiles, electronic textile, washing/cleaning, shielding, durability

Energy

batteries, solar, kinetic, fuel cells

Recycle

ecological, biodegradable, modular construction for dissemble

20 Gemperle, Francine et al: Design for Wearability: www.ices.cmu.edu/design/wearability (1998)

Garment Interfaces Basic clothing as a wearable is thousands of years old. Our interaction with conductive metal-based buttons, zippers, or hooks has become intuitive and these items can easily be modified to act as switches that close or open an electronic circuit. Traditional garments can be great interfaces that can be modified for use as a fashionable wearable.

Modularity The cut of a fashionable wearable should allow for the incorporation of a modular system to house the supporting computer components. These components need to be able to be easily exchanged or replaced due to changes in standards, failure, or the simple fact that the garment may need to be washed.

Issues Interdisciplinary ‘a fashion designer creating a new collection might be slightly puzzled by the engineer’s use of the word design’21 The emergence of conductive and electronic materials demands a greater collaboration between scientists, technologists and designers when creating wearables. The ‘technocraft’22 and do-it-yourself (DYI) movements combine various disciplines in their work and cultivate the beginnings of interdisciplinary collaborations.

Life Cycles Clothing and technology have different life cycles. An electronic component may have an estimated life span of 3 years or more and a typical article of clothing might be disposed of after a couple of seasons. Making a workable integration between the two is a challenging preposition. In addition, garments are generally produced in the thousands versus electronic components, which are produced in significantly larger numbers for cost efficiency due to a much longer R&D phase.

Recycling & Health Energy for smart garments usually comes from batteries, which are thrown away once their lifespan expires, causing huge environmental problems. The life cycle of digitally enhanced devices is getting shorter and shorter. What happens with all the potentially hazardous components? The health implications of fashionable wearables have yet to be researched. The issues around electromagnetic frequency, battery leakage, and the signals of wireless communication remain points of controversy among scientists.

Lawson (1997, 3)

22 Marcus Fairs describes the technocraft movement in the article Technocraft in Wallpaper magazine, March 2007.

Hussein Chalayan London, UK

Biography: Hussein graduated in 1993 from

2005 the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands

London’s Central St Martins School of Art and

hosted a ten-year retrospective of his work. In

Design and launched his own label in 1994. He

2006 Hussein Chalayan was awarded an MBE in

uses film, installations and sculptural forms to ex-

the Queen’s Birthday Honour’s list. Soon after he

plore perception and the realities of modern life,

was also awarded Design Star Honoree by The

with particular interest in cultural identity, migra-

Fashion Group International in New York.

tion, anthropology, technology, nature and genetics. His work is presented at his shows and in art galleries, while his clothing is available in boutiques worldwide. Hussein has directed several short films. Sponsored by Turquality, he represented Turkey in the 2005 Venice Biennale with Absent Presence, featuring Tilda Swinton. In

Hussein Chalayan

Readings, Spring/Summer (2008) London, UK with Swarowski, ShowStudio Keywords: light, laser, crystals

Readings is the title of the Spring/Summer collection and is also a film collaboration with leading crystal innovator Swarovski and Nick Knightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion broadcasting company SHOWstudio. The highlight of the collection is inspired by ancient sun worshipping and contemporary celebrity status. Laser lights are beamed through Swarovski crystals, reflecting light from the garment and bouncing it off mirrors surrounding it, thus representing the interplay between the scrutinized figure and the audience. Hussein Chalayan

One Hundred and Eleven Spring/Summer (2007) London, UK with Swarowski Keywords: mechanics, transformation

An association with Swarovski has led to a collec-

Airborne, Autumn/Winter (2007) London, UK with Swarowski Keywords: display, LEDs, film

tion that transcends a 111-year history of fashion and reveals a modern and unique vision. Each of the five beautifully hand constructed, mechanical dresses, represents a particular period in fashion history, incorporating contemporary vision and complex engineering. 1895 is the starting point

Hussein pushes the boundaries of fashion by

for the collection, consisting of a full-length skirt

integrating the latest LED technology into his

with a tightly pulled in waist on a gown with a

fashion collection. The collection uses climate as

high, frilled neckline. This transforms into a looser

a metaphor and reflects our primal feelings to-

fitting dress with a hemline that rises to the calf

wards nature and the cycles of weather. An LED

reflecting the style of 1910. In turn, this seam-

dress consisting of 15,600 LEDs, combined with

lessly morphs into a 1920s flapper dress com-

crystal, displays short abstract films that corre-

prised of a loose layered knee length skirt with a

spond to the arrival of a particular season.

plunging neckline. The metamorphosis continues right up to the present day.

Hussein Chalayan

Before Minus Now Spring/Summer (2000)

Echoform, Autumn/Winter (1999) London, UK

London, UK Keywords: airplane, electronics, fiberglass Keywords: remote control, fiberglass

The main theme of the collection was speed and The collection focuses on the relationship be-

its associated technologies. The Airplane Dress

tween humans, nature and technology. A number

is a fiberglass construction with a flap that can

of the dresses have irregular geometric shapes

be operated electronically and moves like an air-

with stiffly protruding panels. The Remote Con-

plane wing.

trol Dress is operated with a remote control that opens the fiberglass panels of the dress to reveal the tulle inside.

Hussein Chalayan

Ying Gao Montreal, Canada

Biography: Ying’s two areas of interest are fashion and media arts. She studied fashion design at the Haute école d’arts appliqués in Geneva, Switzerland and at the Université du Québec à Montréal’s fashion school. She earned a Masters degree in Multimedia and went on to acquire professional experience in Paris, Montreal and Beijing. Her artistic creations have been shown in several galleries and were featured in a number of publications such as Textile View and Vision (Beijing). In addition she is a member of the research institute, Hexagram. The central theme of her work is air. Air is light, intangible and poetic, and when infused into a garment, the garment transforms itself and seems inhabited by an elusive body. Inspired by air, she seeks to bring aesthetic form to the immaterial by creating interactive clothing that is both playful and illusionary.

Ying Gao

Walking City (2007)

garment is connected to a pneumatic system that

Montreal, Canada

allows air to enter and exit; this system paces the

with

Simon

Laroche,

Anne-Marie

Durand-

Laflamme, Isabelle Giroux, Annie Hébert

garment’s ‘breathing’ and analyzes the wearer’s movements and sounds the wearer produce. The garment’s physical changes are achieved through

Keywords: pneumatic dresses, origami, fashion design, media art

Walking City stands at the crossroads between fashion design and media arts. It focuses on the creation of three dresses, which react to their immediate environment. Ying inserted a pressure detector in the back of the dress, which re-

fluctuations in the volume of air. Influenced by origami this project is also a tribute to Archigram, a collective of British architects whose projects involved designing temporary, inflatable structures as modular residences. Materials: organdie, various electronic components

tracts when it’s touched. In the second dress, a sound detector senses the wearer’s breath and activates the dress, which gracefully unfurls. The third dress is animated when approached. Each Ying Gao

Living Pod (2007 – ongoing)

Index of Indifference (2006)

Montreal, Canada

with

Simon

Laroche,

Anne-Marie

Durand-

with Anne-Marie Durand-Laflamme, Isabelle

Laflamme, Isabelle Giroux

Giroux

Keywords: inflatable coats, origami, fashion design, media art

Keywords: internet data, survey, clothing structure, shirts

This project consists of two pneumatic and in-

The number of Internet users who vote daily

teractive coats that represent a pair of fraternal

through interactive opinion surveys that are ‘in-

twins. While at first glance they appear identical,

different’ to political, economic or cultural issues

Garment B actually mimics the transformations

shocked Ying. With a software program, she

of Garment A in sequential and fixed intervals.

complied and manipulated this statistical data

When an individual, dressed in Garment A, en-

concerning neutrality in order to modify the basic

gages in a conversation with a third party, the

structure of 10 men’s shirts over the course of

frontal area of the garment is subjected to struc-

four weeks.

tural modifications generated by inconspicuous

Materials: organdie, non-woven interfacing

bursts of air within its numerous folds. Although there is no apparent reason for its sudden transformation, Garment B mimics these bursts a few moments later, tripling in size and becoming odiously flashy. Materials: nylon, non-woven interfacing

34 34

Ying Gao

Angel Chang New York, New York, USA

Biography: Angel is a New York based fashion designer who explores bleeding edge trends in fashion and technology. Inspired by smart fabrics and designing for the future, she collaborates with engineers and interaction designers to develop new ways of dressing for the cosmopolitan woman. She was chosen as a recipient of the prestigious 2007 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award. That same year, she received the Cartier Women’s Initiative Award to develop her business and support her unique vision. PAPER magazine listed her as one of the ‘stars of tomorrow’ in their 10th annual ‘Beautiful People’ issue. Angel most recently served as a design assistant at Donna Karan Collection and previously worked in the design studios of Viktor & Rolf and Marc Jacobs. She received an MA in Modern Art from Columbia University and a BA in Art History & Visual Arts from Barnard College.

Angel Chang

Fall (2007) New York, New York, USA with Mouna Andraos, Sonali Sridhar Keywords: fashion, ready-to-wear, camouflage, heatsensitive

Conductive textiles turn this velveteen Edwardian jacket into a functioning MP3 player. In addition,

Spring (2008)

a camouflage print made with thermochromic

New York, New York, USA

inks adorns the inside of a velveteen coat dress. Interaction designers Mouna Andraos and Sonali

Keywords: fashion, ready-to-wear, heat-sensitive

Sridhar developed this innovative heat-sensitive ink concept. The history of military camouflage

The Manhattan map print was developed in con-

drives this concept and influenced the thermo-

junction with Red Maps, which publishes guides

chromic pattern on the pleated pieces in the col-

for the design-centric crowd. The heat-sensitive

lection.

print on the top only becomes legible when ex-

Inspiration: WWII secret agents.

posed to warmth. Inspirations: International Spy Museum in Washington, DC

Angel Chang

Spring (2007)

conditions. The print on the pleated dress chang-

New York, New York, USA

es color instantly in both hot weather and with

with Ted Southern, Mouna Andraos, Sonali

body heat. Other prints appear immediately in

Sridhar

sunlight. While the flirty six-layer chiffon number remains white indoors, a yellow geometric print

Keywords: fashion, ready-to-wear, heat-sensitive, sun, light, experiments

Artist Ted Southern collaborated on a see-

appears once she steps outdoors. Inspirations: Tamara de Lampicka, French army tanks, Laduree in Paris

through raincoat that features LEDs powered by two AA batteries and activated by a magnetic on/off snap. The sleeves and collar are made of breathable waterproof cotton and embossed with flowers using a traditional leather technique. In addition, Sonali Sridhar and Mouna Andraos developed the concept behind the silkscreen inks that change color depending on the surrounding Angel Chang

CuteCircuit London, UK

Biography: CuteCircuit is a wearable technology and interaction design company, founded by Francesca Rosella and Ryan Genz. Francesca and Ryan both hold a Masters degree in Interaction Design from the Interaction Design Institute Ivrea. Francesca is a fashion designer (Valentino, Esprit) and architect and Ryan an artist and anthropologist. CuteCirucit products were featured at WIRED NextFest for two consecutive years. CuteCircuit was awarded the First Prize at Cyberart Conference in Bilbao, Spain and the Hug Shirt was nominated as one of the Best Inventions of The Year by Time Magazine. Many of CuteCircuit product have been featured in books, magazines and newspapers worldwide.

M-Dress (Mobile Phone Dress) (2007) London, UK Keywords: telecommunication, mobile phone, soft electronics, solar powered, gestural interface

The M-Dress is an elegant silk jersey dress that

wearer needs only to insert their SIM card into

is also a functional soft electronics mobile phone.

the small slot underneath the label. The dress

The M-Dress accepts a standard SIM card and

is then ready and uses the same phone number

allows the wearer to receive and make calls with-

as your usual phone. When the dress rings, the

out carrying a cellular phone in their pocket or

simple gesture of bringing your hand to the ear

purse. The M-Dress was designed after research

will allow the sensor to open the call. When done

showed that women who wear fitted garments,

talking the gesture of releasing the hand down-

with small or no pockets, often miss calls be-

wards will close the call. CuteCircuit introduced

cause mobile phones are awkward to carry. To

special gesture recognition software to allow the

allow women to stay connected while remaining

M-Dress to work in an easy and intuitive manner.

stylish, CuteCircuit designed the MDress. The 38

CuteCircuit

SkateHoodie (2007)

PhotoPhore (2007)

London, UK

Keywords: MP3 player, CuteSwitch tactile switch, waterproof, interactive sportswear, active wear, music

Keywords: swimwear, renewable energy, light up textile

The SkateHoodie allows skaters to listen to their

The Photophore swimsuit lights up when in con-

favorite soundtrack while skating without having

tact with water and is best suited for swimming

to carry an iPod. SkateHoodie users upload mu-

at night. It is made of an antibacterial textile and

sic to their jacket by connecting a USB drive to a

protects the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin from allergy. It is in-

special plug located in the jacketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleeve. Stereo

spired by the photophore, a light-emitting organ,

surround sound speakers are built right into the

which appears as luminous spots on various ma-

hood lining. The SkateHoodie protects the skater

rine animals.

by incorporating special shock-absorbing materials and is lined with reflective Lycra for added night visibility. It also features the CuteSwitch, a brand new soft and stretch switch technology.

CuteCircuit

Hug Shirt (2002 – ongoing)

Irene, SAAB Lifestyle Garment (2006)

London, UK

Keywords: human-human interaction, emotional communication, touch sensors, telepresence, haptic telecommunication

Keywords: digital lifestyle, SAAB, interactive clothing, location-based

Irene is a two-piece urban ensemble composed The Hug Shirt allows users to exchange the

of a blouse and pants. The pants are embroidered

physical sensation of a hug over distance. The

with jewel-like metallic environmental sensors

Hug Shirt is a Bluetooth accessory for Java en-

while the blouse features an information display

abled mobile phones. When a wearer touches

on the forearm and is wirelessly connected to any

their own shirt, sensors embedded in the fabric

network. The user can verify her schedule and

capture the sender’s hand position, pressure and

other information while on the move. A cluster of

hug duration. Using special software running on

film-thin flexible solar cells on the blouse provides

the phone, the hug data can be sent to a friend

the necessary power to operate the system.

anywhere in the world. When a friend receives a ‘hug message’ on their phone, their Hug Shirt will start to vibrate and get warm in the same spot that you touched on your shirt.

CuteCircuit

Kiss-Me (2006) London, UK

Emotional Clothing: KineticDress (2004, 2007) Rome, Italy & London, UK

Keywords: interactive wedding gown, conductive embroidery, heat-formed textiles

The Kiss-Me wedding gown and suit are made

Keywords: emotionally responsive clothing, adaptive clothing, sensors, electroluminescent embroidery, movement

of pure Indian silk in vibrant colors of emerald green and sapphire blue. At the conclusion of the

The KineticDress is made of an elastic textile em-

wedding ceremony, when the couple hugs, two

bedded with sensors that capture the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

unspoken personal messages of love are passed

movements and interaction with others. The sen-

between them. The messages are shown on a

sor data is displayed through the electrolumines-

miniscule display integrated inside the trim of the

cent embroidery that covers the external skirt

clothes.

section of the dress. The algorithmic program that controls the KineticDress is designed to follow the pace of the wearer: a still pose, when sitting alone shows a black dress, when the wearer starts moving and interacting with others the dress slowly lights up with a blue circle pattern.

CuteCircuit

4141

Emotional Clothing: Skirteleon (2004)

A-Nerve (2002 – 2004)

Rome, Italy

Keywords: color changing fabric, adaptive clothing, emotionally responsive clothing, mood sensors, selfexpression

Keywords: telecommunication, intimate interface, shape-changing textile

Accessory Nerve is a Bluetooth enabled monoSkirteleon, or skirt chameleon, is a skirt that

sleeve for mobile phones. When the user receives

changes color and pattern according to the activ-

an incoming call, the fabric creates a unique pat-

ity and mood of the wearer. Manufactured with

tern of pleats that identify the caller. If the user is

CuteCircuit engineered laminated textile, the

in a meeting or busy, they can flatten the pleats

Skirteleon changes color on-demand, upon user

back into the original position, automatically send-

interaction or during the course of a predefined

ing the caller a text message that says ‘I’ll call you

time period. The initial color state is blue but upon

back later’. The Accessory Nerve uses a novel

user interaction, through touch or sensor data,

textile visual language to exchange greetings and

diverse colors and patterns would present them-

information in a subtle and intimate way.

selves.

CuteCircuit

Kerri Wallace London, UK

Biography: Kerri is a textile designer currently focused on the potential of wearable display technologies in textile design. Inspired by metamorphosis, mutation and mimicry, Kerri is developing seamlessly responsive textiles as well as body and motion sensitive wearable displays for performance and fitness monitoring sportswear. For her, aesthetics are paramount particularly when designing wearables. She recently completed her MA in Design for Textile Futures at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design.

Kerri Wallace

Motion Response Sportswear (2006 – 2007) Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London, UK Keywords: mimicry, movement, metamorphic, responsive, temperature

Inspired by parallels between the human and animal body and driven by correlations in heart rate and body temperature, Motion Response Sportswear is a collection of performance sportswear textiles and garments that use smart printed technologies. Kerri used both temperature specific thermochromic inks and liquid crystal inks that respond to body temperature. Inspirations: Benyus J. M. ‘Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature’, Burton R. ‘Bird Behaviour’, Sports International Magazine, Surface

Kerri Wallace

Elena Corchero, lostvalues London, UK

Biography: Elena explores clothing, textiles and design technologies. She believes that when a technology is added to an ancient medium like textiles, there is a need to respect and explore its history and traditions. She spent her childhood at her motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion studio and later studied fine arts. She joined MITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Media Lab Europe specializing in smart textiles and wearable technologies. She recently completed an MA in Design for Textile Futures at Central St. Martins College and is currently a research fellow at Distance Lab.

Elena Corchero, lostvalues

Solar Vintage (2007)

The materials are divided into wood-based (wood

Distance Lab, Scotland, UK & Central Saint

pieces, cellulose-based fabrics and threads) and

Martin’s College of Art and Design, London, UK

electronic (resistors, LEDs, uncoated circuit

with Crispin Jones

boards, conductive threads). The solar cells used are organic, flexible, and none-silicon-based. The

Keywords: eco, solar, accessories, vintage, light

textile illustrates the eco-narrative by displaying images of endangered birds with their corre-

Solar Vintage is a collection of solar powered

sponding species name in Latin.

embellished accessories for the eco-fashion-

Inspirations: endangered birds, ‘Solar Light’

minded. The pieces are charged when used

by Damien O’Sullivan, couture collections by

outdoors during the day and become ambient

Christian Lacroix, Fan Museum London, V&A

decorative lights for the home in the evening. The

Museum London, Ross Lovegrove, Robert

collection aims not to hide technology, but rather

Frenay ‘Pulse’, ‘We shall become silhouettes’

to disguise it in a beautiful and stylistic way. Elec-

song by The Postal Service, Spanish traditional

tronic components are integrated directly into the

accessories

textile and embroidered using conductive thread.

Elena Corchero, lostvalues

whiSpiral (2005) Human Connectedness Research Group, MIT Media Lab Europe, Dublin, Ireland with Stefan Agamanolis Keywords: keepsakes, voice, relationships, touch

The whiSpiral is a spiral-shaped wool shawl that explores how technology can enhance the way keepsakes evoke memories of loved ones. Circuitry integrated directly in the textile allows your friends to record short audio messages at different points in a spiral-shaped shawl. These messages are whispered back each time you wrap yourself in the shawl, or when caressing different parts of the fabric.

Elena Corchero, lostvalues

Ebru Kurbak & Ricardo Nascimento & Fabiana Shizue Linz, Austria & London, UK

Biography: Ebru is a PhD candidate and lecturer

from PUC in São Paulo and in Multimedia Design

at the department of Space and Design Strate-

from the Art Center SENAC, Brazil. He explores

gies at the University of Arts and Industrial Design

the body-environment relationship and develops

in Linz, Austria. She received her MSc degree in

interfaces and autonomous adaptive systems for

Architecture from Istanbul Technical University.

interactive installations and hybrid environments.

Her focus is on investigating spaces and objects

Fabiana is a freelance illustrator who graduated

and the implications of their physical and non-

from the Fine Arts School of São Paulo, Brazil.

physical aspects. Ricardo is completing his Mas-

Her interests are colors, shapes, textures and

ter’s degree at the Interface Culture department

textiles and her work has appeared in fashion

at the University of Arts and Industrial Design in

magazines, books and advertisements all over

Linz. He has degrees in International Relations

the world.

Ebru Kurbak & Ricardo Nascimento & Fabiana Shizue

Taiknam Hat (2007 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2008)

to sources of irritation and stress. The Taiknam

Ogaki, Japan & University of Arts and Industrial

Hat uses horripilation in birds as a visual and

Design, Linz, Austria

tactile metaphor to express our bodiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; irritation towards electromagnetic radiation while verifying

Keywords: electromagnetic pollution, electro smog, horripilation, birds, hats, fashion, wearable technologies, kinetic art

its presence. Inspirations: The study and observation of birds.

Taiknam Hat is a kinetic hat that reacts and animates in response to changing levels of surrounding radio wave signals. The projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s goal is to develop awareness of the increase in electromagnetic pollution by emulating horripilation, an automatic instinctive reaction of living creatures

Ebru Kurbak & Ricardo Nascimento & Fabiana Shizue

KnoWear, Peter Allen & Carla Ross Allen Brooklyn, New York, USA

Biography: Peter and Carla co-founded KnoWear design studio in 2000. Together they have created projects that focus primarily on how nomadic technologies redefine spatial environments and secondly on how the body and technology interact. Their collaboration consistently produces objects that provoke thought and provide beauty. KnoWear has exhibited their work internationally at such recognized venues as The Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum, National Museums of Scotland, Zech Zollverein, Tyne & Wear Museums, MOCA Taipei and Eyebeam Atelier. KnoWear projects have been featured in numerous books and well known monthly publications.

KnoWear, Peter Allen & Carla Ross Allen

BrandX (2007) Brooklyn, New York, USA Keywords: luxury, seduction, commodification, junkie, horrific

KnoWear’s series BrandX imagines a skin disease caused by brand addiction. Three brand addiction scenarios are put forward using full size mannequins in glamorous poses, each depicting

Aerial (2006)

an area of the body ravaged by a logo induced

Essen, Germany

disease. Scenario 1 shows a rash of logos on the face and neck streaming from Fendi Havana Zucchino sunglasses. Scenario 2 focuses on the arm with logos flowing from a Louis Vuitton Alma handbag. Scenario 3 focuses on the foot, ankle, and calf with a rash of logos growing from Gucci Malibu Stilettos. Materials: fiberglass, cast resin, Gucci Stilettos, Fendi sunglasses, Louis Vuitton handbag Inspirations: David LaChapelle, Hussein Chalayan, Ross Lovegrove, Philippe Stack, Marilyn Miniter, Dan Tobin Smith, Adbusters, Vogue, Frame, Surface, ‘A Space Odyssey’

KnoWear, Peter Allen & Carla Ross Allen

Keywords: seduction, horrific, natural, synthetic, software

Aerial is a personal media garment. Working with satellite radio technology, Aerial allows the user to create their own media space using the body as the point of conductivity. Aerial consists of three components: a receiver, a glove controller and soft speakers integrated into the hood. It was a 2006 Cooper Hewitt entry for the Second Skin Exhibition. Materials: vacuum formed foam, silk, cashmere wool

DNA (2006) Essen, Germany Keywords: seduction, horrific, natural, synthetic, software

DNA is a garment with an integrated wireless communication device and digital wallet that allows the user to shop and communicate without carrying additional electronic devices. DNA’s

FTS, Façade of The Synthetic (2005)

main component is a scarf programmed to recog-

Eyebeam Atelier, New York, New York, USA

nize the owner’s DNA, introducing a new tool to combat identity theft. The second component to DNA is an accessory designed with small loops that allows the wearer to style how the scarf is integrated into the overall garment. It was a 2006 Cooper Hewitt entry in the Second Skin Exhibition. Materials: vacuum formed foam, silk, cashmere wool

Keywords: seduction, horrific, natural, synthetic, software

FTS is a garment that features digital tattoos with product logos and dynamic images combined in video form called ‘Body Billboards’. The digital tattoos use the skin as the canvas, while the garment has framed openings to allow viewing of the tattoos. FTS suggests that the next frontier of advertising will not be print; rather skin will be rented out for branding opportunities. Materials: vacuum formed foam, silk, cashmere wool

KnoWear, Peter Allen & Carla Ross Allen

Skinthetic (2002)

TechnoLust (2000)

Brooklyn, New York, USA

Keywords: seduction, horrific, natural, synthetic, software

Skinthetic is a design proposal suggesting how

TechnoLust is a wireless and self-sufficient gam-

consumer branding will extend to the human

ing suit. The bold erotic design merges softness

body in the future. The digital renderings illustrate

of skin with hard electronic lines that suggest re-

how the Chanel iconic quilt design might be inte-

placement of erogenous zones with technology.

grated into the human form. It was shown at Skin

It was shown at Skin at the Cooper Hewitt.

at the Cooper Hewitt.

Materials: vacuum formed foam and silk

Materials: digitally manipulated photo, fiberglass, resin cast logos

KnoWear, Peter Allen & Carla Ross Allen

XS Labs Montreal, Canada

Biography: XS Labs was founded in 2002 by Joanna Berzowska and is a design research studio with a focus on innovation in the fields of electronic textiles and wearable computing. Many of the XS Lab’s electronic textile innovations come from combining the traditional techniques of textile manufacturing with contemporary materials that have various electro-mechanical properties. This enables XS Labs to construct complex textiles with electronic properties. Joanna is an Associate Professor of Design and Computation Arts at Concordia University and a member of the Hexagram Research Institute in Montreal. She received her Masters of Science from MIT for her work entitled ‘Computational Expressionism’ and subsequently worked with the Tangible Media Group of the MIT Media Lab. She co-founded International Fashion Machines in Boston and holds a BA in Pure Math and a BFA in Design Arts. Her collaborators include Marcelo Coelho, Vincent Leclerc, and Di Mainstone. Vincent recently graduated with a Masters Degree from the MIT Media Lab and teaches Physical Computing at Concordia University. Di trained in fashion design at the Central Saint Martins College of Art in London. She worked with Sara Diamond at the Banff New Media Institute to create a series of electronic fashion garments.

XS Labs

Skorpions (2007) Montreal, Canada by Joanna Berzowska, Di Mainstone with Marguerite Bromley, Marcelo Coelho, David Gauthier, Francis Raymond, Valerie Boxer Keywords: shape memory alloys, Nitinol, electronic textile, kinetic garments, electronic fashion, smart materials, conductive yarns, augmented garments

Skorpions are a set of kinetic electronic garments that move and change on the body in slow, organic motions. They have anthropomorphic qualities and can be imagined as parasites inhabiting the skin of a host. They breathe and pulse, controlled by their own internal programming. They are not interactive artifacts insofar as their programming does not respond to simplistic sensor data. They have intentionality. They are programmed to live, to exist, and to subsist. They are lifelike behavioral kinetic sculptures that exploit characteristics such as control, anticipation, and unpredictability. They have their own personalities and their own fears and desires. Skorpions integrate electronic fabrics, the shape-memory alloy Nitinol, mechanical actuators such as magnets, soft electronic circuits, and traditional textile construction techniques. The cut of the pattern, the seams, and other construction details become important components of the engineering design. Skorpions are a comment on the history of garments as instruments of pain and desire. They hurt you and distort your body as did corsets and foot binding. They emphasize our lack of control over our garments and digital technoloXS Labs

gies as clothes shift and change in unanticipated ways and electronics malfunction and become obsolete. Skorpions shift and modulate both personal and social space by imposing physical constraints on the body. Materials: electronic fabrics, soft electronic circuits, specially designed circuit boards, Nitinol, mechanical actuators such as magnets Inspirations: shape-memory alloy Nitinol, concept of kinetic couture, a narrative thread, which bore a family of five dysfunctional animalinspired creatures: Skwrath, Slofa, Luttergill, Enleon and Glutus

XS Labs

Accouphène (2006)

Kukkia and Vilkas (2005)

Montreal, Canada

by Vincent Leclerc, Joanna Berzowska

by Joanna Berzowska, Marcelo Coelho, Hanna

Keywords: ubiquitous computing, sound interface, electronic fashion, smart materials, conductive yarns, sound augmented garments

Soder Keywords: shape memory alloys, Nitinol, electronic textile, kinetic garments, electronic fashion, smart materials, conductive yarns, augmented garments, felt

The Accouphène tuxedo is decorated with 13 soft speakers, created by embroidering decora-

Kukkia is an expressive and behavioral kinetic

tive coils of highly conductive yarn on the front

sculpture that develops a visceral relationship

of the jacket. A central circuit sends pulses of

with the wearer. The Kukkia flowers frame the

energy through the coils. Sounds are generated

face and slowly open and close over time, like

when the sleeve of Accouphène, which contains

a caress. The felt and silk petals provide relative

a stitched magnet, is moved over the coils. Ac-

rigidity and integrate stitched Nitinol (a shape

couphène creates a 3D sonic environment around

memory alloy) wire, which enables the slow, or-

the human body that can be activated and modu-

ganic movement. Vilkas is a dress with a kinetic

lated through hand movement and the twisting

hemline on the right side that rises over a 30

and compression of the cloth. When powered,

second interval. It is constructed of heavy hand-

the speakers generate a weak magnetic field that

made felt and uses a very light yellow cotton el-

reacts to a strong magnet positioned in close

ement that contracts using hand-stitched Nitinol

proximity to the fabric. The magnet’s strength

wires. When heated, the Nitinol easily pulls the

and its distance from the embroidered coil deter-

cloth together and creates a wrinkled effect. The

mine the amplitude of the sound.

hemline is programmed to rise autonomously and

Materials: conductive yarn, embroidery machine,

not in response to any external or internal input.

rare earth magnets, custom electronics,

Materials: electronic fabrics, soft electronic

speakers

circuits, specially designed circuit boards, Nitinol, mechanical actuators such as magnets

XS Labs

Leeches (2004)

Constellation Dresses (2004)

Montreal, Canada

by Joanna Berzowska

Keywords: electronic garments, smart clothes, conductive textile, power distribution

The Leeches dress, constructed with stitched

The Constellation Dresses are covered with

conductive organza stripes, functions as a soft,

twelve magnetic snaps arranged over the torso

wearable, and reconfigurable power-distribution

and thighs and connected in pairs using a single

substrate for attaching individual silicone-coated

line of conductive thread. LEDs are integrated

electronic modules (the ‘Leeches’) that illuminate

into the dresses in a design that resembles a

the dress. The Leeches can be attached in a vari-

constellation. Sets of snaps act as switches that,

ety of positions and configurations. They are held

when connected to the snaps of another dress,

in place by magnetic snaps, which act both as

complete circuits that light up the LEDs. The

mechanical and electrical connections. A single

magnetic snaps act as a mechanical and elec-

power module can be attached at the shoulder

trical connection between bodies. Their irregular

and can power up to ten Leeches. The red LEDs

placement induces wearers to create playful and

inside the Leeches suggest power-hungry crea-

compelling choreographies to connect their cir-

tures that, once attached, suck or draw power

cuits.

(the metaphoric ‘blood’) from your body. The

Inspirations: Development of safe, efficient,

Leeches dress provides comment on the poten-

ecological, and cheap portable power sources.

tial dangers of electromagnetic fields emanating from electronic garments. Inspirations: Development of safe, efficient, ecological, and cheap portable power sources.

XS Labs

Blazer (2003)

SoundSleeves (2003)

Montreal, Canada

by Joanna Berzowska

by Joanna Berzowska, Vincent Leclerc

Keywords: retinal persistence, ubiquitous computing, light interface, electronic fashion, smart materials, conductive yarns, text-augmented garments

Keywords: ubiquitous computing, sound interface, electronic fashion, smart materials, conductive yarns, sound augmented garments

Blazer integrates light emitting diodes into the

SoundSleeves are a set of disembodied sleeves

fabric by employing existing textile construction

that are joined at the back using a narrow band

methods, to create a simple emissive display.

of textile and covered with conductive strips of

The system takes advantage of retinal persis-

silver metallic organza. When users flex or cross

tence to make sense of an apparently random

their arms, a sound is synthesized within the

pattern of flashing lights. When the body is still,

sleeves and played through miniature flat speak-

we see noise. When the body is in motion, the

ers. The strips are individual variable resistance

noise becomes a message: text is displayed. The

switches but, when considered as a whole, they

snaps are modified snap buttons with a trans-

become a body-scale flex sensor that can be

lucid cap prong. A small hole was drilled in the

used to generate sounds. They become an ex-

studs and 3mm high brightness blue LEDs were

tension of the body; when our body language is

added. The snaps also serve as a contact switch

tense and protective (crossing our arms, for in-

to start the flashing of the LEDs. When the but-

stance), the pitch of the sounds becomes higher,

tons are snapped, they start to emit flashing light

as if signaling danger. The stitched circuit board

that appears to have a random behavior. Metallic

connects each element to the few â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; parts of

silk organza is a great base for creating contact

the system: a PIC16F84A, a 3V watch battery

switches and grounding common elements of

and speakers. The connections to the PIC are

a circuit. Blazer is built with 4 layers of the syn-

done using conductive epoxy to avoid the fragility

thetic fabric to isolate the various elements of the

associated with solder connections.

circuit. XS Labs

Suzi Webster Vancouver, Canada

Electric Dreams (2007 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2008) London, UK & Vancouver, Canada with Jordan Benwick Keywords: dreams, felt, fibre-optics, eeg electrodes, electricity

To illuminate can mean to make something brighter and lighter, or it can mean to make Biography: Suzi completed a BFA at Emily Carr Institute in Vancouver, Canada and an MFA at the Slade in London, UK. She now teaches at Emily Carr in the Digital Visual Arts department. Technology enables us to listen in on the mysterious and invisible signals that emanate from our bodies. Mostly this data is used for medical purposes, but Suzi transforms this private bio information into a metaphoric, wearable display of color, light, sound or vibration. Recent exhibitions have included Node London 06, How Smart Are We at the Royal Institute of British Architects, Artefactat the Foundation for Creative Art and Technology in Liverpool, and Cyborgs: Man or Machine at Dott 07 Design Biennale in Newcastle, UK.

something clearer or more understandable. Electric Dreams explores both of these meanings of illumination and makes the relationship between light and thought tangible and visible. The private and fleeting daydreams of the dreamer are transformed into a shifting and ephemeral display of light and color. EEG electrodes monitor the dreamerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brainwaves. This signal is read by a custom microcontroller circuit, which amplifies and interprets the electrical signals of the brain to control shifts of color via red, green, and blue light emitting diodes embedded in a hand-molded felt headdress. End-lit fibre optic cables transport the LED light through the headdress. This light and color becomes a visible extension of fleeting thought processes. Side-lit fibre optics carry these light impulses into the body of the garment to emphasize the distribution of the nervous system throughout the skin of the body. The design of the garment and headdress is based on the universal archetype of the tree of life.

Suzi Webster

Felt (2007 – 2008) London, UK & Vancouver, Canada with Jordan Benwick Keywords: portable audio player, crocheted copper wire belt, vibration, micromotors

This hand crocheted copper wire belt transforms portable audio into music that is felt as well as heard. Felt uses a customized microcontroller to interpret the audio and adjust the internal frequency of micromotors that then vibrate copper wires in sync with the wearer’s sound track.

Barking Mad (2005 – 2006) London, UK

London, UK

with Jordan Benwick

with Jordan Benwick, K Patterson

Keywords: coat, proximity sensors, gsr sensor, flat panel speakers, crowds

Barking

Electric Skin (2006)

Mad

was

designed

Keywords: Elumin8 printed LEDs, silk, sensors, breath, electricity

This bio-responsive gar-

to help shy, stressed people

ment turns the intimate

deal with situations of urban

breath of the wearer

overcrowding. Proximity sen-

into pulses of elec-

sors respond to infringements

tric aqua light. The

on personal space by emit-

inhalation and exha-

ting the sound of a barking

lation of the wearer

dog through flat panel mi-

activates a breath

cro speakers in this ulti-

sensor that dims and

mate urban survival coat.

brightens the printed

The sounds ranges in

LEDs of the garment.

strength from a poodle’s

The wearer is connected to

yap to the bark of a rott–

a power source by an um-

weiler, depending on the

bilical cord/power cable

level of infringement.

creating a sense of danger and unease.

Suzi Webster

Barbara Layne, Studio subTela Montreal, Canada

Biography: Barbara is a Professor at Concordia

Jacket Antics (2007)

University in Montreal and a member of the Hexa-

Montreal, Canada

gram Institute. She has lectured and exhibited

with Diane Morin, Hesam Khoshneviss, Maryam

internationally, including the Dorrego Gallery at

Golshayan, Meghan Price

the Metropolitan Museum of Design in Buenos Aires, the Ivan Dougherty Gallery in Sydney Aus-

Keywords: wearable electronics, intelligent fabrics, handwoven cloth, communication

tralia, and the International Biennale of Design in St. Etienne France. Her work has been support-

Jacket Antics feature unique texts and designs

ed with numerous grants including the Canada

scrolling through the LED array on the backs of

Council for the Arts, SSHRC, Hexagram, and

two garments. When the wearers hold hands,

the Conseil des arts du Quebec. In Addition, she

the LED arrays presents a third, synchronous

is the Principal Investigator of Hexagramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s infra-

message that scrolls from one to the other, pre-

structure grant from the Canadian Foundation for

senting a new pattern of communication. When

Innovation. Barbara is the Director of Studio sub-

the wearers release hands the message reverts

Tela, working with graduate student researchers

back to the individual themes. The garments are

on the development of intelligent cloth structures

constructed of handwoven cloth, made from tra-

for the creation of artistic, performative and func-

ditional black linen yarns woven alongside light

tional textiles.

emitting diodes, microcontrollers and sensors. The capacity for interactivity in the animated cloth displays extend the narrative qualities of cloth and provide new possibilities for dynamic social interaction. Material: linen, silver threads, Basic Stamp, Bluetooth

Barbara Layne, Studio subTela

Tornado Dress (2007) Montreal, Canada with Hesam Khoshneviss, Diane Morin, Meghan Price Keywords: LEDs, light, storm

The Tornado Dress features a Mimaki print of a tornado by Nebraska storm-chaser, Mike Hollingshead. The lining of the dress has been embroidered with con-

Tunic and Vest (2005)

ductive threads and electronic

Montreal, Canada

components including super-

with Diane Morin, Hesam Khoshneviss, Jake

bright white LEDs. Three small

Moore, Karine Allonce, Meera Patel

photocells have been embroidered to the outside of the

Keywords: wearable electronics, intelligent fabrics, handwoven cloth

dress and detect the amount of ambient light. Depending on the quantity of light that

The Tunic and Vest were early LED garments

is sensed, different flashing

that used multi-strand, uninsulated wires in a

patterns are triggered that

unique wire-wrapping technique to create elec-

are reminiscent of lightning

tronic circuits woven at the loom. The LED array

effects that can accompany se-

of the tunic can be triggered from a distance via

vere weather situations.

a Bluetooth device. Electronic components were intentionally exposed to accent the relationship

The Twining Vest (2006)

between weaving and technology.

Montreal, Canada

Materials: linen, wire, Basic Stamp, Bluetooth

with Diane Morin, Jake Moore, Hesam Khoshneviss Keywords: wearable electronics, intelligent fabrics, handwoven cloth, performance

This vest was created for the performance, Twining, by choreographer-dancer, Yacov Sharir. Changing messages are transmitted wirelessly from offstage and displayed on the LED array worn by Sharir. Other dancers respond to the changing messages with improvisational movement in an exploration of new media communications. Materials: linen, wire, Basic Stamp, Bluetooth Barbara Layne, Studio subTela

Diana Eng New York, New York, USA

Biography: Diana uses technology to develop a new aesthetic, form, and functionality in fashion. Her design process follows the scientific method. Designs are created after an intense research process. Experimentation determines how the new technology will be made wearable and implemented into fashion. Diana has a background in fashion with a BFA in apparel design from the Rhode Island School of Design. Diana was a designer on Bravo’s TV show ‘Project Runway Season 2’. She has collaborated on projects with Yahoo and the University of Bath. Currently, Diana is developing a couple of DIY (do-it-yourself) books.

Inflatable Collar (2007) New York, New York, USA Keywords: inflatable fashion, air, collar, DIY

Inflatable Collar is a study of transformation and a look at clothing that moves independently while you wear it. A collar is traditionally used to help frame the face. Inflatable Collar mimics the motion of a blooming flower. It is a collar that blooms around the face. The collar is constructed from an air mattress inflator that is connected to a fabric collar that has an interior lined with a sealed plastic airbladder. The result is a shape-changing garment that transforms while being worn. Materials: inflatable device hacked from inflatable air mattress, blouse/shirt/ tubing, plastic bagging, battery pack

Diana Eng

Blogging in Motion (2006 – 2007) Yahoo Hack Day, Berkley, California, USA with Emily Albinski, Audrey Roy, Jeannie Yang, Yahoo Research Berkley Keywords: blogging, camera, photograph, GPS, Flickr, Yahoo

A purse which involuntarily blogs your day. Each time the wearer walks 30 paces, the purse takes a photograph and automatically uploads it to a blog online (www.BloggingInMotion.com). Time and GPS location for each photo can also be added to the blog. At the end of the day, blog readers can trace back through the wearer’s footsteps by viewing the photographs. Materials:

Basic

Stamp,

Nokia

phone,

pedometer, purse, Zonetag

Inflatable Dress (2003 – 2006) Rhode Island School of Design, Providence, Rhode Island, USA with Emily Albinski Keywords: inflatable, dress, air

Inflatable Dress is an exploration of how a design changes through shape and color. Inflatable Dress is a gown that initially fits closely to the body but inflates to become bell shaped with tendril-like spikes on the back and large pillows of air on the sides. The silhouette of the gown can be changed by varying the amount of air.

Diana Eng

Pupsight (2006)

Heartbeat Hoodie (2004)

New York, New York, USA

Rhode Island School of Design, Providence,

with Emily Albinski

Rhode Island, USA

Keywords: pet, dog collar, Motorola, video, images

Keywords: heart rate, basic stamp, hoodie, photograph, algorithm, camera

A camera collar system for dogs that allows owners to see their pet’s-eye view. Owners can call

Heartbeat Hoodie explores the idea of involun-

the collar using a Motorola cell phone and re-

tarily documenting parts of one’s life using a

ceive real time video or images of what their pet

camera that takes photographs when the heart

is looking at. The collar can also send the phone

rate increases during moments of interest or ex-

photo messages of the dog’s view at designated

citement. The camera is discreetly hidden in the

times of the day.

hood. Basic Stamp construction allows algorithm

Materials: Motorola Homesight, dog collar

analysis for detecting moments of interest as opposed to moments of excitement. Materials: hoodie, camera, basic stamp, heart monitor

Diana Eng

Stijn Ossevort Barcelona, Spain

Biography: Stijn is a Dutch designer who studied

Flare (2007)

both industrial engineering and art design. After

SOS Design Studio, Barcelona, Spain

completing his studies he worked as a free-lance designer for Ron Arad, Philips, Canary Wharf,

Keywords: dress, experience, surrounding, wind, light

the National Trust and as a tutor at Central Saint Martins College in London. His work is as diverse

Imagine you are wearing a woolen coat outside in

as his academic background and ranges from in-

the rain. The coat will start to generate a distinc-

teractive jewelry to public sculptures. In 2001 he

tive smell or might even shrink a little. These reac-

began to focus on wearable electronic devices

tions can be used to give us a more comprehen-

and spent a year at the Interaction Institute Ivrea

sive awareness of our surroundings. The Flare

in Italy. While there he completed a project in cre-

Dress does just that by perceiving wind. The

ating user inspired wearable electronic devices.

dress has two fabric layers. The outside layer is

Soon after, he joined the Swiss Federal Institute

covered with 15 ‘Dandelions’. Each flower con-

of Technology (ETH) in Zurich as a researcher on

sists of 32 LEDs that light up in a sequence that

wearable computing devices. He recently moved

simulates dandelion seedlings being blown away.

to Barcelona. Most of his work provides a critical

Only the flowers that face the wind become ac-

view on the way we relate to our products.

tive. The windier it gets the more responsive the dress becomes. Materials: silk, cotton, SMD LED’s, microchips

Stijn Ossevort

QBIC - Wearable Computer in a Belt (2005) ETH, Z端rich, Switzerland with Michael Lauffer, Fabrizio Macaluso Keywords: wearable computer belt

The QBIC is a novel wearable computing system integrated into a fully functional belt. This system integrates the main electronics in the buckle of a belt and utilizes the belt itself as extension bus and mechanical support for add-ons. The USB, serial, and VGA connections are integrated into the leather of the belt. This makes the QBIC both comfortable and powerful enough to support a wide range of applications. Materials: leather, aluminium, stainless steel, PU resin

Stijn Ossevort

Compass Coat (2003)

Perfume Jewellery Pieces (2002)

Interaction Institute Ivrea, Italy

with Els Ossevoort Keywords: perfume, jewelry, light, air Keywords: compass, light, orientation

A necklace and a ring set that enables lovers to The Compass Coat is an extraordinary compass

communicate on a very subconscious level. Each

that indicates north by â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;growingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; plant shapes.

piece can be activated when one of the lovers

In total 24 electro luminescent wires are embroi-

blows against it. The piece will respond with

dered, whichever points north starts to glow. The

sparkling lights and will send a radio transmitted

coat is inspired by the lack of natural elements in

signal to the other jewelry piece which will in turn

our urban landscape that we would ordinarily use

release a gentle perfume smell. Both pieces have

for orientation.

been crafted into working prototypes.

Materials:

wool, EL wire, magnetic resistive

Materials: silver, glass, SMD components

sensors, microchip

Stijn Ossevort

Maggie Orth International Fashion Machines Seattle, Washington, USA

Biography: Maggie is an artist and technologist

woven electronic circuits, printed thermochromic

who creates electronic textiles at her company,

inks and drive electronics. She also creates in-

International Fashion Machines. Maggie is con-

teractive textile and light pieces that explore the

sidered a pioneer in electronic textiles, fashion-

electrical and transmissive properties of textiles.

able computing, interface design, and art. Mag-

In addition, Maggie acts as a consultant on fash-

gie holds a BFA in painting from RISD and a PhD

ionable computing to large fashion companies.

from the MIT Media Lab. Her themes include the interaction of technology and electricity with the body, and what happens when the decorative arts collide with computation. Today, her work focuses on the development of electronic textiles as an artistic medium. She creates programmable color change textiles that combine

Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines

Petal Pusher, 2007

Materials: 100% wool felt, rayon, conductive

Seattle, Washington, USA

yarn, acrylic, lamp parts

Keywords: electronic, e-textile, light art, textile sensor

Inspirations: Alexander Girard, Merit Oppenheim, Fur Cup, James Turrel

Petal Pusher is an interactive textile and light installation that explores the hidden electrical and transmissive properties of felt, embroidery and fibers. Viewers touch soft, hand tufted sensors to light the felt panels, revealing color, textile structure, and pattern. Felt colors, textile structures and embroidery yarns were carefully selected to achieve a dramatic and surprising effect when lit from behind. The viewerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experience of this piece is immediate and sensual. Color, saturation, pattern and light reflection change as viewers illuminate different panels. These hand tufted sensors use a capacitive method of sensing. They are tufted from conductive yarn and charged with a small voltage. Touching them allows the electrical charge to flow from the yarn, through your body, to ground. Sensors detect this change in charge and send an electrical signal to control the light. For this limited edition work, 49 unique patterns were created. The patterns are machine embroidered onto wool felt. Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines

Running Plaid (2007) International Fashion Machines, Seattle, Washington, USA Keywords: color change textile, electronic textile, art

Touch a button to start the piece, which changes color over a 20 minute program. A woven repeat design is combined with compositional printed ink and gestural woven electronic yarns. Software explores regular patterns and randomly generated sequences. It is a black and white double weave. Materials: conductive yarn, thermochromic ink, electronics, software Inspirations: Alexander Girard, James Turrell, Daniel Rozin

POM POM & ESSENTIAL Wall Dimmers (2004 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2007) International Fashion Machines, Seattle, Washington, USA Keywords: electronic textiles, light dimmer, product

The POM POM and Essential Wall Dimmers are a fun and funky alternative to the traditional plastic dimmer switch. Touching these soft textile switches dims the light. These products make a mundane activity sensual and question our assumptions about decorative form and function. Materials:

rayon,

wool,

conductive

yarn,

neoprene, electrical parts Inspirations:

Merit

Oppenheim,

Duchamp,

Joseph Beuys

Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines

Dynamic Double Weave (2004) International Fashion Machines, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA Keywords: electronic textile, color change textile, electronic art

Dynamic Double explores how software can interact with a regular repeat design on a printed textile. Software explores regular patterns, randomly generated repeat elements and random sequences. 64 pixels hand woven on black, white, pink and navy double weave. Materials: conductive yarn, thermochromic ink, electronics, software Inspirations: Alexander Girard, Early America Double Weaves

Electronic Tablecloth (1999) MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA with Rehmi Post, MIT Media Lab students Keywords: electronic textile, electronic embroidery

The Electronic Tablecloth allows viewers to communicate and play games by touching a keypad embroidered into the tablecloth. Information (visual output) is displayed on the LED text displays in the centerpiece. Materials: conductive yarns, rayon, appliquĂŠd metallic silk organza, linen, sensing electronics, tag reader, PC, LED text displays, light emitting center piece Inspirations: textile design, Art Nouveau textile and furniture design

Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines

Musical Jacket (1997)

Firefly Dress & Necklace (1995)

MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts,

USA

with Rehmi Post, Joshua Smith, Joshua Strickon,

with Emily Copper, Derek Lockwood

Emily Cooper Keywords: electronic textile, fashion, e-fashion, electronic embroidery

Keywords: electronic textile, fashion, e-fashion

The dress is sewn with layers of conductive maThe Musical Jacket integrates a wearable MIDI

terial separated by tulle and LEDs with conduc-

synthesizer with an embroidered keypad. Sens-

tive Velcro brushes are attached. As the wearer

ing electronics place a small electrical charge

moves the Velcro contacts the conductive fabric

on each number embroidered from conductive

and causes the LEDs to light. The necklace is

thread. When the wearer touches the number,

the body draws the charge to ground. Electron-

broidered power plane on the dress.

ics sense the change to trigger a musical event.

Materials: metallic organza, conductive yarns,

Materials: resistive yarns, metallic silk organza,

Velcro, LEDs, gold beads, silk, electronics

power and data bus, electronics, speakers, MIDI

Inspirations: Thad Starner, MIT Media Lab

synthesizer, batteries

Wearable Group, antique clothing, ‘Meat Dress’

Inspirations: Tod Machover, Joe Paradiso, Lori

by Jana Sterbak, ‘Speaker Bra’ by Charlotte

Anderson, Joseph Beuys

Mormon, Joseph Beuys

Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines

Linda Worbin Borås, Sweden

Biography: Linda is a textile designer and PhD Student at the University College of Borås, the

Knitted Circuits And Irreversible Textile Patterns (2007 – ongoing)

Swedish School of Textiles and Chalmers Uni-

Swedish School of Textiles, University College of

versity of Technology, Gothenburg, Sweden. Lin-

Borås, Sweden

da’s research is focused on designing dynamic

with Anna Persson

textile patterns. Textiles that exemplify this are controlled by computational technology and have the ability to change expression during use. In her work, Linda explores dynamic aesthetic expression in textile patterns and structures.

Keywords: dynamic textile patterns, textile circuits, experiment

The project is an example of a new technique used for designing dynamic patterns, in this case irreversible textile patterns. The textile structure and/or pattern is changed by applying voltage to the interwoven Kanthal thread, which first heats up and then affects the combined materials in different ways. Both natural and synthetic materials are used for diversity in aesthetic expression. By adding voltage at different times a dynamic and irreversible textile pattern is created. Materials: Kanthal thread, cotton, wool, polyester in circular knitted and woven fabrics, BX24

Linda Worbin

Swedish School of Textiles, University College of

The Fabrication Bag – An Accessory To A Mobile Phone (2005)

Borås, Sweden

Swedish School of Textiles, University College of

with Amy Bondesson

Borås, Sweden

Costumes (2006)

with Hanna Landin Keywords: experimental design, dynamic textile patterns

Keywords: dynamic textile pattern, aesthetics as communication

This experimental design research project examined dynamic textile materials and patterns in a

A bag interacts with the mobile phone contained

costume context. A collection of six costumes

inside and changes its visual expression depend-

was made, each reacting to UV-light, tempera-

ing on the number of calls received and the identi-

ture or voltage. Depending on environmental con-

ty of the caller. The bag’s textile pattern responds

ditions and body movements, the visual expres-

to a computer program, which is reacting to the

sion of the costumes changes. Both the woven

real time activity of the mobile phone.

and knitted textiles are specially made for the

Inspirations: ‘Inside/Outside’ by Katherine

costume project using thermo, photochromic,

Moriwaki, J. Redström et al ‘Informative Art:

electro luminescent, conductive and traditional

Using Amplified Artworks as Information

textile materials.

Displays’

Linda Worbin

Textile Disobedience (2003 – 2004)

The Interactive Pillows (2001 – 2002, 2004)

The Interactive Institute, PLAY Studio & Swedish

The Interactive Institute, PLAY Studio in collabo-

School of Textiles, University College of Borås,

ration with Marks Pellevävare & Swedish School

Sweden

of Textiles, University College of Borås, Sweden with Christina von Dorrien, Patricija Jaksetic, Erik

Keywords: dynamic textile pattern, smart textiles

Wistrand, Anders Ernevi, Daniel Eriksson, Johan Redström, Maria Redström

This project investigates textile patterns that are a bit disobedient in the sense that they behave differently to what we traditionally expect from

Keywords: dynamic textile pattern, aesthetics, communication, electroluminescent

textile patterns. Two types of dynamic textile patterns were designed. The tablecloth ‘Rather

The Interactive Pillows are based on the idea that

Boring’ has hidden messages that become vis-

the pillows should be able to interact regardless

ible when the tablecloth is exposed to heat. In

of geographical distance. When one of the pil-

‘Being Squared’ a striped apron, when turned

lows is hugged or leaned against, the pattern of

on, adapts to match the checked pattern of the

the other pillow changes its aesthetic expression.

tablecloth in a chameleon type reaction.

The first generation of pillows were woven on a

Inspirations: ‘History Table’ by Loop,

handloom and made of wool, electroluminescent

International Fashion Machines, X. Tao ‘Smart

wire and effect yarn. The second generation of

fibres, fabrics and clothing’

pillows were made on an industrial weaving machine, using the same materials.

Linda Worbin

Donna Franklin Perth, Australia

Biography: Donna recently completed her Master of Arts at Edith Cowan University. During this time she collaborated in various projects working with microbiology technologies. Using performance, installation and film her projects explore themes such as the dynamics between art and science and the commodification of bodies and organisms. She is currently a tutor in Cultural History and Theory, SCCA, ECU. Donna has exhibited biological and non-biological works at BEAP04 Bio Difference: The Political Ecology, Hatched 05 PICA, BEAPworks06 in Australia, “Second Skin” ENTRY06, Vitra Design Museum in Germany and the Ars Electronica Festival 07 in Austria. Gary is a scientific technician with the FNAS teaching laboratories. Some of the art projects he has engaged with include sculpting with plant tissue and microbial specimens. Gary exhibited the Micro‘be’ Fermented Fashion project with Donna Franklin; Bioalloy and the Body Performance in Singapore 2006 and Bleeding Tent 1 & II in Venice and Kassel 2007 with S. Chandrasekaran.

Donna Franklin

Micro‘be’ Fermented Fashion (2006 – ongoing) Faculty of Natural and Agricultural Sciences Teaching Labs in collaboration with Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia with Gary Cass ass Keywords: bio-textiles, living microbes (Acetobacter), wine fermentation, commodity culture, vivo culture

Imagine a fabric that grows… a garment that forms itself without a single stitch! The Micro‘be’ project aims to develop innovative research into the production of unique fermented garments grown with a novel method that uses cellulose creating bacteria. The Micro‘be’ team investigates the practical and cultural biosynthesis of microbiology to explore forms of futuristic dressmaking and textile technologies. A fermented garment will not only redefine the meaning of traditional interactions between body and clothing but will also examine the practicalities and cultural implications of commercialisation. Micro‘be’ fermented wear will be produced through bacterial wine fermentation. This activity’s by-product is the synthesis of large quantities of cellulose microfibrils synonymous to plant based cotton. This collaborative project allows the biological clothing to be worn on the body without issues of fragility or outside contamination.ria, wine, beer Inspirations: art and science collaborations, theories on evolution

Donna Franklin

Seduction and the Sinister (2006) The Faculty of Natural and Agricultural Sciences Laboratories, The University of Western Australia, Perth, Australia Keywords: ethics, manipulation of body, spectacle, aestheticism, fetishism, art, fashion

The project examines the issues raised by wearing biological material. Garments contain hidden pockets of fungi that are revealed during the performance through the act of cutting, tearing and sewing. Biological textiles result from the manipulation of mycological practices. The horror of wearing fungi so close to the skin is hidden in the aesthetic illusion of vibrant fungi prints and luxurious fabrics. Materials: silks, digital prints, organza, media, fungi, threads, film, projections, live performance bodies Inspirations: Theodore Adorno, Guy Debord, Alexander McQueen, ORLAN, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Metropolisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Donna Franklin

Fibre Reactive (2004) Artist residency at Symbiotica: The Art and Science Collaborative Research Laboratory, The School of Anatomy and Human Biology at The University of Western Australia Keywords: living garment, mycology, cultured nature

Fibre Reactive is a unique living garment that attempts to raise debate on the controversial manipulation of living entities into commodities and the use of microbiology as an artistic tool. The Pycnoporus coccineus fungus is cultivated and produces a living colored surface. It is the intention of the work to challenge the role of garments in commodity culture and to also draw attention to our own mortality. Materials: Pycnoporus coccineus (orange bracket fungi), non-infectious, non-hazardous fungi, silk Inspirations: Anthony Giddens, Michael Foucault, Kira Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Reily, TC & A, Phil Ross

Donna Franklin

Manel Torres, Fabrican London, UK

Biography: Manel is the Managing Director of

Spray-on Fabric (since 1997, 2007)

Fabrican Limited, an academic visitor at Impe-

London, UK

rial College, a lecturer at the Istituto Marangoni,

with Paul Luckham

and a visiting lecturer at the Royal College of Art in London. He studied Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wear Fashion Design at the Royal College of Art. He thereafter embarked on a PhD at the same College and in collaboration with Imperial College in London. His research involved crossing the interrelating disciplines of science and fashion design. He has worked worldwide as a fashion designer and his work has been exhibited both nationally and internationally. He continues to consult in various areas of the fashion and scientific industries.

Keywords: magic, instant, mythological, original, unique, personal

Spray-on Fabric is a patented technology developed by Fabrican. It utilizes a suspension of polymers and suitable fibers which can then be easily sprayed on to any surface using either a spray gun or an aerosol can. The fabric is formed by the cross-linking of fibers which adhere to create an instant non-woven fabric. Intricate patterns can be created in a number of colors leading to a variety of aesthetically pleasing fabrics. With the prototypes, Fabrican has been able to use different types of natural and synthetic fibers and to incorporate scents and colors (from primary to fluorescent). An innovative non-woven material, Spray-on Fabric offers numerous possibilities for binding, lining, repairing, layering, covering and

Manel Torres, Fabrican

molding in ways previously unimagined. In 2007 Fabrican worked with Mr. Nobody Productions, an international film company based in Berlin. Fabrican created a set of futuristic costumes for the actors playing nurses at a fictional hospital in 2090.

Manel Torres, Fabrican

Sit Down and Quit Smoking (2007) Keywords: smoking, instant, nicotine

The project involves a nicotine embedded instant coating for furniture that is imagined to assist smokers in quitting. Sitting in the prototype chair would allow for the user to feel the rush of nicotine without inhaling toxic cigarette smoke.

Spray-on Bikini (2007) Keywords: UV protection, smoking, nicotine

Spray-on bikini is an instant bikini top applied from an aerosol can and combined with UV protection particles and nicotine drugs to help the wearer give up smoking while sunbathing.

Manel Torres, Fabrican

Tobie Kerridge London, UK

Biography: Tobie is a research fellow in the Interaction Research Studio at Goldsmith University in London. He works on collaborative projects supported by Intel, France Telecom and the Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council. His research explores how design methods can be extended to provide individuals with creative ownership of technology. He is also a visiting lecturer at the RCA, TU/e and Camberwell. Before graduating with an MA in Interaction Design from RCA, Tobie took a BA in English literature and Fine Art at Oxford Brookes University.

Tobie Kerridge

Material Beliefs (2007 – 2009)

Material Beliefs is a residency program that links

Goldsmiths, University of London, London, UK

engineers with designers. The aim of these reflec-

with James Auger, Elio Caccavale, Jimmy

tive collaborations is to generate a body of work

Loizeau, Susana Soares

for public exhibition and engagement events. The project is focusing on technologies that blur the

Keywords: collaboration, interfaces, hybrids, engineering, design

boundaries between our bodies and materials. It asks the question, ‘how can we deploy design to invigorate a discussion about the value of these forms of hybridity?’

Tobie Kerridge

Biojewellery (2006)

wisdom tooth extraction. The extracted bone was

Royal College of Art & Kings College, London,

then placed in a sterile container full of culture

medium. The samples were cut into very small

with Nikki Stott, Ian Thompson

fragments and after three to five days, cells were moved out of the bone fragments. The cells were

Keywords: tissue engineering, jewelery, design, ethics, engagement

Biojewellery is the fusion of scientific research and the art of jewelery. The team collaborated to create rings for couples. Bone tissue was cultured in a lab at Guyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hospital, using cells donated by the couples. This tissue was then com-

then cultured, resulting in millions of osteoblast cells, and then seeded onto ring shaped scaffolds. The scaffolds were incubated in a cell culture medium for six weeks to form new bone mineral. The rings are then placed in electroforming tanks where a low voltage electrical current plates them with a layer of precious metal.

bined with precious metals to create the rings. The result: each person wears a unique object that contains their loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actual DNA on their hand. A fragment of jawbone was taken during a Tobie Kerridge

Jenny Tillotson London, UK

Biography: Jenny is a Senior Research Fellow at the University of the Arts in London. She gained a BA in Fashion from Central Saint Martins and a PhD in Textiles from the Royal College of Art. Prior to her academic work she was a stylist and sensory designer. She has won major awards, has been widely exhibited, and is a 2006 FiFi Award nominee. She is the founder of Sensory Design & Technology, which specializes in the research and development of wearable wireless sensor networks and microfluidic devices for fragrance delivery which have therapeutic applications in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;emotional clothingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Jenny Tillotson

Scent Whisper (2006) Institute of Analytical Sciences, Dortmund, Germany & Central Saint Martins, London, UK with Andreas Manz, Gareth Jenkins, Don Baxendale Keywords: scent, wellbeing, Scentsory Design

Scent Whisper is responsive jewelry that provides a new way to send a scented message. It is inspired by the defense mechanism in spiders and insects and focuses on bombardier beetles that squirt predators with a high-pressure jet of boiling liquid in a rapid-fire action. Two brooches use microfluidics and a wireless remote sensor linked to a fragrance-dispensing unit. The user whispers a secret message into a spider brooch, which transmits the message, via a humidity sensor, to a beetle brooch worn by a partner, re-

Scentsory Design (2005) London, UK with Guy Hills, Wendy Latham, Fraser Geesin, Veshti Evens, James Feltham, David Briggs

leasing a minute spray of scent onto a localized area and creating a personal ‘scent bubble’. This would benefit wellbeing, through olfaction stimu-

Keywords: wellbeing, emotional fashion, aroma rainbow

lation of the autonomic nervous system, and as a novel communication system to send an aroma

Scentsory Design explores the fusion of emo-

message that could be seductive (pheromones),

tional fashion with health and olfaction science.

protective (insect repellent), healing (lavender) or

It is a collection of responsive clothing that adds

informative (gas leak).

more sensations to the fashion palette and cre-

Inspirations: entomology: spiders and bombar-

ates radical new properties. The clothing forms

dier beetles, Thomas Eisner ‘For Love Of

an intimate ‘aroma rainbow’ using microfluidics.

Insects’

It pulses beneficial chemicals in controlled ways that respond to personal needs. Inspirations: JG Ballard, human body, mental health issues

Jenny Tillotson

SmartSecondSkin (2004)

Sensitive Shoes (2004)

London, UK & Paris, France

Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts

with Adeline Andre

London, UK with Steve McIntyre

Keywords: scent, wellbeing, sensory systems

SmartSecondSkin is a scent delivery system that

Keywords: emotional wellbeing, reflexology, sensitivity, solar plexus

adds function to fashion by mimicking the body’s senses, scent glands and circulatory system.

Sensitive Shoes is inspired by reflexology. As the

Scented chemicals flow freely through the veins

wearer walks pressure points are stimulated by

of the dress as the fabric selects and emits a

pressing down on sensor pads that correspond

scent depending on the wearer’s mood. It has its

with reflexology points on the foot. Correspond-

own pseudo nervous system, which allows the

ing LEDs are enabled and glow from the under-

garment to control, through olfactory stimulation,

side of the sole. The ball of the foot touches on

the emotional wellbeing of the wearer.

the solar plexus point, the centre of emotional energy, and offers a ‘bath of light’ so that the simple act of walking becomes a healing experience.

Jenny Tillotson

James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau London, UK

Biography: James and Jimmy have been collaborating on projects whilst at the Royal College of Art since 2001. They worked at Media Lab Europe in Dublin as research associates. They are currently based in London and lecture at the Royal College of Art and Goldsmith University. Their work has been published and exhibited internationally. They combine a range of disciplines including engineering, fine art and industrial design to develop products and services that contradict and question current design ideology where development is mostly aimed towards a superefficient, multi-functional utopia. Their work looks at technology not as something separate or other but as an intimate entity that we are intertwined with and in the sense we wear it.

James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau

Smell+ (2007) Royal College of Art, London, UK & Philips Design, Eindhoven, The Netherlands Keywords: olfaction, senses, communication

After a long hiatus, scientists have realized the importance of the olfactory sense and its complex role in many human interactions and experiessential role in anything from sexual selection

Interstitial Space Helmet (2004 – 2007)

to general wellbeing. However, smell is the one

Dublin, Ireland & London, UK

ences. Research has proven that smell plays an

sense where control is lost. Each breath we take sends loaded air molecules over the receptors in the nose and in turn send potentially gutteral, uncensored information to the brain. Simultaneously our bodies are emitting sense and effecting others in ways we are only now starting to understand. To facilitate control over both these variables the smellsuit has been devised. Sealed pouches encapsulate the apocrine glands preventing oxidation and channeling smells to a chest mounted control unit. All input smells also arrive here giving the wearer the choice of which smell to concentrate on. Materials: silicon rubber, epoxy resin, aluminum

Keywords: communication, virtual, presence, otaku

The Interstitial Space Helmet (ISH) is an experiential comment on contemporary communication as mediated by technology. While interacting with others via web cams and artificial personas, the modern computer user might run into identity problems when dealing with real people on the physical plane. The ISH concept blurs these two worlds, allowing the user to take elements of the virtual into the physical realm. Materials: polycarbonate, electronic media Inspirations: Walter Pickler, Otaku generation

Inspirations: C. Classen, D. Howes, A. Synnott ‘Aroma’, P. Suskind ‘Perfume’

James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau

Iso-phone (2004)

Audio Tooth Implant (2001)

Media Lab Europe, Dublin, Ireland

Royal College of Art, London, UK

Keywords: communication, immersion, slow design, sensory deprivation

Keywords: implants, communication, cyborg, bionics

The Audio Tooth Implant is a radical new conThe Iso-phone is a telecommunication concept

cept in personal communication. A miniature au-

that can be described simply as a cross between

dio output device and receiver are implanted into

a telephone and an isolation tank. The user wears

the tooth during routine dental surgery. The tooth

a helmet that blocks out all unnecessary sensory

communicates with an array of digital devices.

input while maintaining the head above the sur-

Sound information is transferred from the tooth

face of the water. The only sensory stimulus pro-

directly into the inner ear by bone transduction

vided is a two-way voice connection to another

and is totally discreet.

person using the same apparatus in another lo-

Materials: resin model with embedded chip

cation.

Inspirations: The 6 Million Dollar Man (1970s US

Materials: stainless steel, fibreglass, aluminium,

TV program), Urban Myth of people hearing radio

electronic media, scuba mask

through teeth.

Inspiration: Walter Pickler, film: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Altered Statesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Giles Gilbert Scott (designer of British red telephone box)

James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau

Adidas Portland, Oregon, USA & Herzogenaurach, Germany

Biography: ait is the research and development group of Adidas responsible for cutting-edge concepts and technologies for footwear, apparel and hard goods across all sport categories. The people at ait bring with them a vast and varied range of experience and expertise in industrial design, biomechanics, materials engineering, mechanical engineering, finite element analysis, advanced 3D CAD design and product development. Their research laboratories include facilities for high-speed motion analysis, motion tracking systems, traction testing, body-heat mapping and airflow analysis.

adidas_1 Basketball (since 2006) Portland, Oregon, USA & Herzogenaurach, Germany Keywords: Basketball, cushioning, motor, shoe

A magnetic sensor in the heel senses the level of compression. This compression level is sent to a microprocessor that determines if the cushioning level is too soft or too firm. A motor driven cable system adapts the cushioning to make the shoe softer or firmer as needed. If the heel experiences no compression for five minutes, the shoe goes to standby mode to conserve battery life. A light on the shoe blinks to let you know the shoe is resting, but not turned off. If there is no compression after two hours, it switches itself to chill mode or off.

100

Adidas

adiStar Fusion (since 2006)

adidas_1 (since 2005)

Portland, Oregon, USA &

Herzogenaurach, Germany

with Polar Keywords: running, cushioning, motor, shoe Keywords: heart rate monitoring, running, wireless transmission

The adidas_1 uses a sensor and a magnet to determine whether the cushioning level is too soft

The adiStar Fusion system combines the benefits

or too firm via a microprocessor. It adapts with

of a heart-rate monitor and a running monitor to

a motor driven cable system to provide the cor-

view and analyze heart rate, distance, speed, and

rect cushioning throughout the run. The motor,

recovery rate data. The system includes a Polar

housed in the midfoot, receives the microproces-

Wearlink transmitter that measures and records

sorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s instructions and adapts by turning a screw,

every heartbeat and sends the data to the Polar

which lengthens or shortens a cable. The length

RS800 running computer. The transmitter snaps

of the cable determines the compression of the

perfectly onto the heart-rate sensors integrated

cushioning element.

into the front of adiStar Fusion shirts or bras. The Polar s3 sensor measures every stride from within the shoe and transmits data on speed, distance and cadence straight to the running computer. The synchronized data may even be downloaded for later viewing or analysis.

Adidas

101

Textronics Wilmington, Delaware, USA

Biography: Textronics is a leader in the development of wearable sensors for fitness and health monitoring. The companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile sensor systems are capable of capturing comprehensive physiologic data from the body and are designed to be seamlessly integrated into everyday garments. Wearable monitoring allows a comfortable and user friendly way to obtain body data measurements to assist consumers in managing their top wellness concerns of weight loss, physical health and energy level. Textronics sells sensor components and markets its own line of clothes for personal monitoring under the brand name NuMetrex.

102

Textronics

NuMetrex Fitness Apparel (2007)

NuMetrex Sports Bra (since 2005)

Wilmington, Delaware, USA

Keywords: smart apparel, heart rate monitor, fitness apparel, e-textiles

NuMetrex fitness apparel uses smart fabric tech-

The NuMetrex heart sensing sports bra pioneered

nology to sense heart rate and transmit it to a

textile sensing technology. NuMetrex apparel can

wristwatch or exercise machine. The NuMetrex

be worn with the NuMetrex transmitter and com-

Heart Sensing Racer Tank is a sleeveless tank

patible analog heart rate monitors. They are also

top and features a shelf bra where the electronic

compatible with the Polar Wearlink transmitter

sensing technology is integrated into the fabric to

and all Polar heart rate monitors.

monitor heart rate. A tiny transmitter snaps into a pocket in the shelf bra to send data to a compatible monitoring device. The NuMetrex Cardio Shirt for Men is constructed with special sensory fibers integrated directly into the garment. The conductive fabric moves comfortably with the body, picking up the heartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pulse and sending it to a compatible watch or cardio machine via a tiny transmitter that is snapped into a pocket on the shirt.

Textronics

103

Cati Vaucelle Boston, Massachusetts, USA

Biography: Cati is a research assistant and

5PVDIt4FOTJUJWF (2007)

PhD candidate at the Massachusetts Institute of

Tangible Media Group, MIT Media Laboratory,

Technology in the Tangible Media Group. Her ex-

Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA

tensive experience in electrical engineering and

with Yasmine Abbas

product design fosters her research on how our expectations of physical space are transformed by digital technology. She is fascinated by the spatial qualities of personal experience and explores the imaginary mechanics of recollection. She mines peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s associative memory for elements in their life by creating expressive tools. She researches seamless sensory interventions that provide the wearers with the opportunity to use fashion as a supporting treatment.

Keywords: apparel, wearable, haptic, massage therapy, sensory interface, fashion

5IF 5PVDIt4FOTJUJWF BQQBSFM FWPMWFE GSPN UIF observation that people need to sooth their bodies to protect themselves from everyday aggressions. The device consists of a matrix of clothing elements that allows transmission of tactile information through heat sensors, mechanically driven textural sensation and liquid diffusion. Its material is envisioned to detect the userâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comGPSU MFWFM 5PVDIt4FOTJUJWF TPPUIFT BOE BMMJWJBUFT by detecting points of stress and delivering an electronically actuated massage. Inspirations: Architectradure: http://architectradure.blogspot.com/, Neo-Nomad: http://blog. neo-nomad.net/, Marquart S., Morra J. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The The Prosthetic Impulse, From a Posthuman Present to a Biocultural Futureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

104

Cati Vaucelle

Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA

Psychohaptics: A Series Of Wearables To Support Psychotherapy (2006)

with Hiroshi Ishii

Tangible Media Group, MIT Media Laboratory,

Picture This (2007) Tangible Media Group, MIT Media Laboratory,

Cambridge, Massachussetts, USA, Keywords: children, toys, accessories, video, gesture, film assembly

with Leonardo Bonanni, Hiroshi Ishii Keywords: haptic, self-mutilation

Picture This is a new input device for video capturing and editing. Designed for young children,

Psychohaptics is a diverse set of touch modalities

ages five and up, it allows them to craft compel-

simulations that assist in the treatment of specific

ling movies through the motion analysis of their

mental disorders. Based on the most promising

interaction with toys. Picture This is both a doll

touch-therapy protocols, haptic interfaces are

hand-bag and a doll audiovisual recorder. Chil-

implemented to support treatments at a local

drenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite props alternately serve as charac-

hospital. The interfaces include Cool Me Down:

ters and camera men in a film. As children play

a flexible electronic cold wrap containing elec-

with the toys to act out a story, they conduct al-

tronic heat pumps. Hurt Me: a wearable haptic

gorithmic film assembly.

device that generates controlled pain as a form of sensory grounding for persons with tendencies towards self-harm. Squeeze Me: a vest that simulates therapeutic holding. Touch Me: a system for the remote application of touch therapy similar to the Wilbarger Protocol.

Cati Vaucelle

105

Taptap (2005) Graduate School of Design, Harvard University & MIT Media Laboratory, Cambridge, Massachussetts, USA with Leonardo Bonanni, Jeff Lieberman, Orit Zuckerman Keywords: haptic, wearable, touch therapy, fashion design

Aerial Jewelry (2005 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2006) Graduate School of Design, Harvard University &

Taptap is a wearable haptic system that allows

MIT Media Laboratory, Cambridge,

nurturing human touch to be recorded, broad-

Massachussetts, USA

cast and played back for emotional therapy. Con-

Keywords: jewelry, fashion, aerial, satellite imagery

Aerial patterns of a city are transformed into jewelry. With the use of computer assisted drawing and computer fabrication GIS files from a location, e.g. a city, are imported and its shadows and interstices are engraved onto metal. These metal pieces become jewels. Each person could

tained in a convenient modular scarf the haptic input/output modules provide a personalized affectionate touch. Taptap can be configured to record and play back a touch that is most meaningful to the each user. It is constructed from two layers of felt. An outer grey one and a pink layer that contains the haptic modules in specially designed pockets.

posses a distinctive jewel from his or her hometown.

106

Cati Vaucelle

Hannah Perner-Wilson & Mika Satomi Linz, Austria

Massage me (2007) Interface Cultures, University of Arts and Industrial Design, Linz, Austria & Interface Design, Bauhaus University, Weimar, Germany Keywords: massage, multi user, interface, video games, touch, jacket, gamepad hack, DIY, human computer interface

Massage me is a wearable massage interface that turns a video game player’s excess finger energy into a back massage for the innocent bystander. Playing Massage me requires two people, one to wear the jacket and receive the massage and another to play the game thereby massaging the wearer. The player is equally a gamer and a masseur. Soft flexible buttons made from layers of conductive fabric are embedded in the back of the jacket, turning the wearer’s back into a gamepad. Materials: stretch conductive fabric, foam, neoprene, iron-on, silicone, shielded wire, thread, Biography: Hannah studied Industrial Design

game controller, game console (Playstation)

and Mika is currently a doctoral student in Inter-

Inspirations: Stephan Freundorfer ‘Joysticks,

face Culture at the University of Arts and Indus-

Eine illustrierte Geschichte der Game-Controller

trial Design Linz. Massage me is their first col-

1972-2004’, Stewart Mitchell ‘The Complete

laboration project, however they continue to work

Illustrated Guide to Massage’

together exploring the realm of wearable technology. They bring a spirit of humour to technology and a twisted criticism toward the stereotypes it creates. For them, technology is to be hacked, DIYed and modified to fit everyone’s needs and desires.

Hannah Perner-Wilson & Mika Satomi

107

Kai Eichen & Marit Mihklepp & Hanna Tiidus Tallinn, Estonia

Biography: After graduating highschool Kai

Hanna decided to study textile design at the Es-

studied tailoring and pattern construction. She

tonian Academy of Arts after finishing art high-

worked one year at a small t-shirt production

school. For one year she was an exchange stu-

studio which increased her interest in design. In

dent at the University of Ljubljana for jacquard

2004 she entered the Estonian Academy of Arts

weaving and graphical design. Since graduating

majoring in textile design.

she continues to focus on the fields of textile and graphic design. Marit loves to communicate with the world through textile design, which she has been studying at the Estonian Academy of Arts since 2004. Currently her interest lies in the virtual sphere of design focusing on electronic textiles, dynamic patterns, sound art and video.

108

Kai Eichen & Marit Mihklepp & Hanna Tiidus

SpringOn (2007)

combined with electronics to produce interior de-

Estonian Academy of Arts & The Estonian

sign objects. The electronic aspects are hidden

Information Technology College, Tallinn, Estonia

so the pieces project a natural and warm feel-

with Margus Ernits, K채rt Ojavee

ing while containing a number of surprises. The

Keywords: eternal spring, starlight, sunny weather, warm feet, flowers

carpet is woven on hand-looms and is made of 100% wool and felted wool. It includes a hidden heating system made from an electrical heating-

The project contains three objects: a carpet by

blanket and a switch made of conductive fabric.

Hanna Tiidus, a tablecloth by Kai Eichen and a

The tablecloth is a silkscreened object with a

pillow by Marit Mihklepp. Together they create a

floral pattern printed using regular ink. A hidden

relaxing atmosphere of spring, nature, light and

puzzle printed with thermochromic ink reveals it-

warmth. This project is inspired by the long, cold

self upon contact with heat. The cloud-pillow is

and dark Estonian winters when everybody tends

made of hand-embroidered textile, electro-optical

to get seasonably depressed and frustrated. Tra-

fiber and swing-ropes. Inside there is thick foam

ditional techniques such as silkscreen printing,

rubber, 6 LED-systems and a switch made of

embroidering, sewing, felting and weaving were

conductive fabric.

Kai Eichen & Marit Mihklepp & Hanna Tiidus

109

Despina Papadopoulos Studio 5050 New York, New York, USA

Biography: Studio 5050 was founded in the

technology and fashion. Despina has lectured

summer of 1995 by Despina Papadopoulos. The

extensively, her work has appeared in museums

Studio’s mission is to stretch the boundaries of

and galleries around the world and has been fea-

fashion, design, technology, art and ideas, and to

tured in many publications and magazines. She is

engage in an open dialogue between these dis-

an adjunct professor at NYU’s Interactive Tele-

ciplines. Studio 5050 was featured in I.D.’s 40

communications Program. Her work for Interval

January 2007 Issue, ‘Celebrating the Collective’,

Research Corporation and NCR’s The Knowl-

as one of the world’s most interesting and prom-

edge Lab has been awarded numerous patents.

ising collectives. Despina graduated from NYU’s

Zach is an electrical engineer who believes that

Interactive Telecommunications Program in 1994

the best use of technology is to make life more

after having received an MA in Philosophy from

interesting. Zach graduated from the Interac-

the University of Leuven, Belgium. The nature of

tive Telecommunications Program at New York

the sublime and non-verbal communication led

University in 2007. He has been working with

Despina to create a series of ‘philosophy ma-

Despina, since October 2006, on the electronic

chines’, experiments in design and technology,

modules that bring the Shadow to Light Collec-

which probe the relationship between magic,

tion to life.

112

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

Golden Fleece, Shadow to Light Collection (2007) New York, New York,

The Masai Dress, Shadow to Light Collection (2007) New York, New York, USA with Zach Eveland, Andrea Lauer

USA with Zach Eveland, Andrea Lauer Keywords: modularity, flexibility, wearable Lego, magic, serendipity, humor, communication

Keywords: ethnography, imagination, musical narrative, playfulness

Inspired by Masai wedding collars, this dress salutes both our

Golden Fleece is a luxurious,

global provenance and our

gold leather, supple lamb-

desire to create our own sound-

skin top that evokes the cut of

track as we move about in mysteri-

samurai armor and hugs the

ous ways. With every step, strings

body with a graceful drape.

of hand-formed silver beads

Side straps attaching to Sam-

that hang from the collar brush

Brown buttons allow the top to

against conductive threads sewn

be worn directly on the body

into the dress, generating a series

or over a turtleneck and make

of sounds. A leisurely walk or a

this a versatile item. A mean-

night at a cocktail party turns into

dering stitch-pattern made of

an improvisational performance.

conductive thread on the underside of the leather, turns the en-

A long asymmetrical swoop in the back of the dress recalls

tire garment into a surface where small

Balenciagaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famed wed-

electronic units can be easily attached.

ding dress, homage to a

Its modern urban armor, for the modern

maestro who visually

digital fashionistas who crave weaving

and aurally blends

their electronics as they like, when they

cultures, tradi-

like, where they like.

tions and

Inspirations: Greek mythology, Lego

emotions.

blocks

The dress comes in a luscious deep-sky blue silk jersey and white nourishing Sea-Tiva (75% cotton, 25% algae). It is a dress that heals both body and soul. Inspirations: Masai wedding collars

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

113

The T-Sweater, Shadow to Light Collection (2007)

The Embrace, Shadow to Light Collection (2007)

New York, New York, USA

with Zach Eveland

with Zach Eveland, Andrea Lauer

Keywords: ambient reflection, awareness, modules, wearable one-liner

Keywords: communication, exchange, symbolic transfer of energy

The T-Sweater is a snug, fleece sweater that

The fitted dark-blue canvas hoodie sports the

sports a radiant yet discreet temperature-display

collection’s abstracted logo in a pattern made

on each sleeve (one in Fº and the other in Cº). The

of a futuristic silver conductive fabric. When two

sweater’s cut embraces the body on all sides. It

people wearing the hoodies embrace they actu-

is a cozy and sexy armor fashioned from fleece.

ally power each other up through that pattern.

Made of two interlocking panels, the sweater

The symbolic energy transfer becomes fully ac-

mimics early construction techniques where

tualized and the embrace is instantly translated

loom widths dictate the rules of construction and

into an explosion of light and sound. Small white

design. The old and new, our human path and

lights flicker in the back of each hoodie forming a

a bit of humor make the temperature sweater a

big-dipper pattern while a faint heart beat sound

warm must-have addition to the wardrobe.

is emitted. The designs of the hoodies themselves take their inspiration from the construction of early Siberian hooded coats and create an enveloping safe haven, a tranquil vestige of protection and romanticism. The hoodies also come in a luxurious, cashmere-like 100% bamboo basket weave - very huggable indeed.

114

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

Day-for-Night (2006) Residency at First Andros International, Andros, Greece & New York, New York, USA with Jesse Lackey Keywords: solar cells, modules, Paco Rabanne, reconfigurability, material exploration, beauty in electronics, perspective shift

The Flicker Dress, Shadow to Light Collection (2007) New York, New York, USA with Zach Eveland, Allie Haskell Keywords: experimental fabric design, flickering, analog circuits, embodiment

Day-for-Night, an homage to Paco Rabanne is a celebration of the beauty of electronics. It is a modular and reconfigurable dress comprised of 448 white circuit boards. Each tile is designed to accommodate a solar cell, a RGB LED, and jumper connectors. A control board provides power, communicates with the tiles, and links to a computer via RF. A microcontroller relays data

Walk in the light, walk as light: a dress made in

to and from the dress via a 2.4 GHz RF link.

lusciously soft off-white cashmere. Tiny lights are sewn under the fabric. Each step activates the lights and the white wool becomes a shimmering, reflective surface. The dress design is simple and modular. A tight torso with a dramatic loose drape allows this dress to change length and to easily transform into a radiant shawl.

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

115

ClickSneaks (2005)

LoveJackets (1995, 2005)

New York, New York, USA

with Thomas Gregoriades Keywords: love, communication, signals, objectiles Keywords: playfulness, anticipation, expectations, subversion

A pair of jackets emits, and polls for, a particular signal. Once the pair find and face each other

The ClickSneaks were conceived while walking

within a 10 feet distance, the two beep, emitting

down a cobblestone street, wearing a comfort-

a sound akin to crickets mating, and a pattern of

able pair of sneakers next to a friend wearing

LEDs starts blinking. Each jacket responds only

high heels. The sound of the heels produced a

to its unique opposite. The technology used is

rich aural echo. For the ClickSneaks the sound

basic: an infra-red receiver and transmitter, a PIC

of the inspirational high heels has been recorded,

chip that controls the LEDs, the speaker output

only to be activated with each step the revamped

and also sends out the ‘bits’ of code that allows

sneakers take. The original ‘click’ sound is re-

the pairs to find each other. The components are

corded on a voice chip, while a speaker, ampli-

attached to the circuit board via conductive fabric

fier and an accelerometer acting as a ‘switch’,

conduits.

transform these seemingly normal sneakers into a flighty performance.

116

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

Moi (2002)

mbracelet (1999)

New York, New York, USA

New York, New York, USA & London, UK with The Knowledge Lab, NCR

Keywords: jewelry, LED, light

Moi is about light and about the ability of all of us

Keywords: relationship technologies, iButtons, expressivity, gestural interfaces, communication

to appropriate light, and in doing so, inadvertently, appropriate technology. Moi is best received

The mbracelet explores wearable computing

when people approach it as magical unexpected

applications for financial transactions with ATM

sparkle and not so much as technology. How-

machines. It has 3 slots that can receive inter-

ever, it is in fact made of the most basic parts

changeable iButtons. The mbracelet’s mecha-

present in almost all devices: an LED, wire and

nism was built onto a flexible circuit and molded

a battery.

in polyurethane in eight bright colors. A connection between mbracelet and a host is veryfied through a tri color LED grid. The mbracelet’s ‘plug’ interface allows users to exchange messages by performing a cross handshake.

Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050

117

Leah Buechley Boulder, Colorado, USA

Biography: Leah Buechley is a designer and researcher exploring the intersection of computational and physical media. Her work focuses on making computation soft and beautiful, and on creating artifacts that engage and empower a broad range of people. Her research was the recipient of the best paper award at the 10th International Symposium on Wearable Computers and has been featured in Popular Science, CRAFT Magazine, the Journal of Architectural Design, the Denver Post and the Taipei Times. She holds a PhD in Computer Science from the University of Colorado at Boulder and a BA in Physics from Skidmore College.

118

Leah Buechley

projectLilyPad Arduino (a construction kit for electronic textiles) (2007)

sion of the LilyPad replicates the design of the

Craft Technology Group, University of Colorado

cuit boards. This commercial version sacrifices

at Boulder, Department of Computer Science,

some of the aesthetic and sensual qualities of the

Boulder, Colorado, USA

original, but makes creative experimentation with

with Fun Electronics, Arduino

e-textiles broadly accessible.

soft version on mass produceable traditional cir-

Materials: cloth, conductive fabric, resin, Keywords: LilyPad, Arduino, e-textile construction kit, fabric PCBs, electronic textiles

The LilyPad is a construction kit that enables people to build their own soft, interactive wear-

electronics Inspirations: Lifelong Kindergarten Group at MIT, International Fashion Machines, Jean Baptiste LaBrune, Maurin Donneaud

ables. Microcontroller, sensor, and actuator pieces can be sewn together with conductive thread (the stitching creates both electrical and physical connections) and then programmed to exhibit all sorts of behavior with the Arduino software. The kit allows people, designers, artists, hackers, and kids to experiment with e-textiles. The soft version is a research prototype based on fabric printed circuit boards. Each board is constructed out of laser-cut conductive fabric attached to a traditional cloth substrate. Every input/output tab of each module is attached to a conductive fabric petal on the flower-shaped boards. The hard ver-

Leah Buechley

119

e-textile construction kit version 1.0 (2006) Craft Technology Group, University of Colorado at Boulder, Department of Computer Science, Boulder, Colorado, USA Keywords: e-textile construction kit, electronic textiles, fabric PCBs

The first e-textile construction kit introduced the idea of a construction kit for wearables. However, it was not as elegant as the LilyPad. I designed the pieces with all the habits I had formed while designing traditional circuits; though soft, the pieces were bulky and square. Materials: cloth, conductive fabric, resin, electronics Inspirations: Lifelong Kindergarten Group at MIT, International Fashion Machines, Jean Baptiste LaBrune, Maurin Donneaud

120

Leah Buechley

bracelets (2005 - ongoing)

LED clothing (2006)

Craft Technology Group, University of Colorado

at Boulder, Department of Computer Science,

Boulder, Colorado, USA

Boulder, Colorado, USA with Nwanua Elumeze

Keywords: bracelets, craft, beaded, wearable display, LED

Keywords: wearable display, DIY

The bracelets are woven on bead looms out of

The shirt is a programmable wearable and acts

conductive thread. Beads and LEDs function as

as a low-resolution display. It is programmed

dynamic programmable displays that are almost

with cellular automation and text animations. An

as thin and flexible as classic beaded jewelry.

embedded IR receiver allows the wearer to set

They are controlled with soft circuitry, powered

its pattern with a PDA. The shirt was released

with flexible Lithium-ion batteries and can com-

as a do-it-yourself project that included detailed

municate with other electronic devices via Blu-

instructions on how to build one.

etooth.

Materials: conductive thread, LEDs, electronics

Materials: beads, LEDs, conductive thread and

Inspirations: MAKE magazine, CRAFT

fabric, electronics

magazine

Inspirations: traditional arts and crafts

Leah Buechley

121

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair Helsinki, Finland & Vienna, Austria

Biography: Laura is a PhD-candidate at the

formation of every day life through technological

Planetary Collegium, Computing, Communica-

conditions. Martin is Assistant Professor at the

tions & Electronics, Faculty of Technology at the

Institute for Design and Assessment of Technol-

University of Plymouth. Her interests deal with

ogy, Department of Informatics at the Vienna

individuals in the global society adapting to a

University of Technology. He is a media artist,

highly complex technologically enhanced world

practitioner and theorist. His work fathoms the

and specializing in mobile, wearable objects. Her

interstice between smart and dumb objects. In

work examines private and public relationships to

his research and publications, he focuses on the

art and the individualâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presence in a globally net-

theory and practice of interactive art and design,

worked environment. Erich is the Chief Curator

from games and physical interfaces to commu-

at LABoral Center for Art and Industrial Creation

nity media and open source models.

in Spain. Erichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artwork deals with information processes and feedback structures, which he investigates with installations, situations, performances and various interfaces. In his research and curatorial work he is focused on the trans-

122

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair

Heart-Donor (2007)

Heart-Donor by Beloff & Berger with Mitrunen is

Porvoo, Finland

a wearable artwork in the form of a vest, and is

by Laura Beloff, Erich Berger

concerned with presence, intimacy, and memory

with Elina Mitrunen

in everyday life. Heart-Donor is made of custom built hard/software, mobile phone and textile.

Keywords: wearable artwork, presence, intimacy, memory, everyday life

It explores social networks and life in a hybrid space. One collects 30 recordings of heartbeats, which are then stored into 30 small lamps embedded on the front of the vest and which blink in green. The color changes to blink in red when the person whose heartbeat is stored into the vest goes online with Skype. The wearer can then follow the selected social network of people, who are shifting their attention between the physical and virtual, wherever he may be and without dropping out of hybrid space.

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair

123

TRATTI (2006 – ongoing)

The Fruit Fly Farm (2005 – 2006)

Vienna, Austria & Helsinki, Finland

Oslo, Norway & Helsinki, Finland

by Laura Beloff, Martin Pichlmair

by Laura Beloff

with Florian Gruber

with Mika Raento, Bundes, Erich Berger

Keywords: sound, music, wearable, children, device, mobile, networked

Keywords: mobile, networked, wearable, bio, organic

The Fruit Fly Farm is a work investigating the TRATTI makes funny noises. TRATTI is a wear-

relationship between technological society and

able noise instrument for kids and a form of mobile

organic (insect) society, which is being observed

wearable art. Once one’s own voice is recorded,

by technology. The Fruit Fly Farm is built as a

the TRATTI transforms it using ambient sound as

wearable object for people to adopt. It is a per-

a score. TRATTI connects to the universe and ac-

sonal ‘pet’ and wearable system with public ac-

tual events from space can be heard as specific

cess provided via a mobile phone. The Fruit Fly

sound-signals. TRATTI contains custom written

Farm has a whole small-scale society under ob-

software for a camera equipped mobile phone,

servation.

a microphone, a modified speaker-megaphone,

Inspiration: A rotten apple infested with by small

and rechargeable batteries.

flies.

Inspiration: Luigi Russolo

124

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair

The Head (Wearable Sculpture) (2004 – 2006)

Sevenmileboots (2003 – 2004)

Oslo, Norway & Helsinki, Finland

Finland

by Laura Beloff

by Laura Beloff, Erich Berger, Martin Pichlmair

Oslo, Norway & Vienna, Austria & Helsinki,

with Mika Raento, Bundes, Juhani Rytkölä, Ari Arvola, Erich Berger

Keywords: leather boots, networked, IRC chat, real time, audio, flâneur

Keywords: mobile, networked, wearable, observation

Sevenmileboots are a pair of interactive boots The Head is a wearable sculpture with a connec-

with audio. When walking in the physical world

tion to the Internet and public access provided

one may suddenly encounter a group of people

via mobile phone/SMS. The Head is available for

chatting in real time in the virtual world. The chats

adoption by the public. Ideally the Head should

are heard as a spoken text is coming from the

follow its ‘foster-parent’ everywhere he or she

boots. Wherever you are with the boots, the

may go. The public can access the Head via mo-

physical and the virtual world will merge together

bile phone by sending an SMS message. When

and you become a cosmopolitan flâneur of hybrid

the Head receives the SMS message it responds

space.

by capturing an image and recording a short sound. The image and sound are then sent back as a reply and automatically uploaded to Flickr. com.

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair

125

Kate Hartman New York, New York, USA

Biography: Kate is an interaction artist and re-

Muttering Hat (2006 – 2007)

searcher devoted to the study of what makes

New York, New York, USA

people tick. Her work in soft circuits seems to be the inevitable outcome of being the daughter

Keywords: audio, thought, humor, conceptual, sharing

of a fabric artist and an engineer. She chooses wearables as a platform for expression because

The Muttering Hat is a conceptual piece that

it provides the opportunity to make work that is

explores the notion of physicalizing thought. In

experienced in one’s own personal space. Kate

our daily lives we often become overwhelmed

holds a B.A. in Film and Electronic Arts from

by the noise of persistent, overlapping thoughts.

Bard College and a Masters from the Interac-

Though we can try and tell each other what we

tive Telecommunications Program at New York

are thinking, it is never quite the same as it would

University where she is currently a Resident Re-

be to actually listen in. The Muttering Hat imag-

searcher. Her individual and collaborative work

ines a literal emptying. It illustrates what it would

spans the fields of video, electronics, fashion,

be like to take our internal mutterings and, in a

and telephony. Her work has been exhibited in-

playful manner, project them out into the world.

ternationally and featured in the New York Times,

Constructed of fleece, foam, batting, and Vel-

BBC’s World Service, NPR’s Morning Edition,

cro, the Muttering Hat contains of an embedded

and IEEE Distributed Systems Online.

audio system that generates muttering sounds.

126

Kate Hartman

Heelys Hack (2007) New York, New York, USA with Christian Croft Keywords: human power, sustainable energy, generator

Using the ever-popular roller shoe as a platform These noises operate as a placeholder for what-

for development, the Heelys Hack harnesses

ever your internal soundtrack might be. Two mut-

the energy of the turning wheel through a se-

tering balls are tethered to the hat. In their resting

ries of gears that spin an embedded generator.

state, they are stuck to the ears and all external

The voltage produced can be used for a range

noise is obstructed by the mutterings. However,

of low-power applications ranging from localized

they may also be detached, providing the wearer

light and sound to charging small electronics de-

the opportunity to escape from the mutterings or

vices and to subversive urban data-mining experi-

to share them with a friend.

ments.

Inspirations: ‘Wearable Body Organs‘ by Kelly

Inspirations: Joe Paradiso ‘Energy Harvesting

Dobson, Eckhart Tolle ‘The Power of Now’

for Mobile Computing’

Kate Hartman

127

Urban Sonar (2006)

Sensor data is logged on a mobile phone via

New York, New York, USA

Bluetooth and can be later interpreted as a time-

with Kati London, Sai Sriskandarajah

based visualization. Inspirations: ‘Urban Atmospheres Project’ by

Keywords: heart rate, proximity, data logging, visualization, mapping

Intel Research, Eric Paulos, Tor Norretrander ‘The User Illusion’

Urban Sonar is a wearable sensing system that uses objective data to map a subjective experience. Ultrasonic range finders mounted in the jacket measure proximity to solid forms on all sides of the body. Conductive fabric strips, strapped around the fingers, serve as contact leads for a heart rate monitor that registers pulse.

Go-Go Gloves (2006)

(re)connect (2006)

New York, New York, USA

Keywords: collage, puppets, dance party

Keywords: soft circuit, conductive fabric

Constructed of conductive fabric and thread,

(re)connect is a garment that allows the wearer

Go-Go Gloves are electronic gloves that control

to turn inward and receive feedback from their

paper doll go-go dancers on a screen. With the

own gestures and touch. When holding oneself,

slight motion of touching thumb to fingertip, two

connections made between conductive fabric

strangers can have a virtual on screen dance

patches, which cover the hands and other points

party. An accompanying control panel allows the

on the body, close electric circuits and cause

players to select characters, backgrounds, and

mild vibrations along the back.

music.

Inspirations: ‘Hug Shirt’ by Cute Circuit, ‘Hug

Inspiration: ‘Megatap 3000’ by Jeff LeBlanc &

Jackets’ by Despina Papadopoulos

Chris Karailla

128

Kate Hartman

Younghui Kim New York, New York, USA

Biography: Younghui teaches Interaction Design

Stir-It-On (2007 - ongoing)

and is Chief Creative Officer of Missing Pixel, an

New York, New York, USA & Hongik University,

interactive media company in New York that she

Seoul, Korea

co-founded in 2000. Younghuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s design projects have been recognized with several interactive design awards and presented at many prestigious international conferences. Merging her passion of design and technology, Younghui began to design interactive wearable projects. Her work was exhibited at the Emerging Technologies gallery at SIGGRAPH â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;04, FutureFashion, and the Gwangju Design Biennale and featured on Nippon TV, iChannel TV, as well as in various magazines and books. Younghui received her Masters degree from ITP at New York University and her BFA degree from the Parsons The New School For Design.

Keywords: wearable, touch, lights, LEDs, personal space

Stir-It-On is an interactive wearable skirt that reacts to any close encounter with its surface. The Stir-It-On skirt will has design patterns on the surface that will emit subtle light when stirred by a passing touch or rub. In crowded urban cities, many people pass near you or even touch you with their coats, jackets or bags. Stir-It-On skirt will have reactive lights that are subtle enough to be fashionable and beautiful enough to wear. The pattern of lights will be made of LEDs that are integrated into the fabric surface using different materials such as fiber optic wires, Luminex or layers of textiles that transmit gentle light. Inspiration: Traveling Viequez Island in Puerto Rico.

Younghui Kim

129

HearWear: The Fashion Of Environmental Noise Display (2003 – 2005)

Technology Jacket (2003) New York, New York, USA with James Tu

New York, New York, USA with Milena Berry Keywords: fashion, technology, urban noise, environmental, display, sound, wearables

Keywords: performance, technology, jacket, fashion, costume, theater

This project explores the idea of information flowing over everyday objects. Younghui and James

HearWear is a wearable visual reflection of your

attached a screen, lighting wires and blinking

auditory surroundings. The level of light emitted

LEDs on the back of an existing jacket and used

depends on the level of sound; the louder it is,

a Basic stamp for programming. Three switches

the more your apparel lights up. The electronics

inside of the pocket enable the performer to turn

are seamlessly integrated into the wearable de-

various features on or off.

sign. The sound-detecting sensor is subtle and

Inspirations: Blade Runner, ‘Afrofuturistic’

unnoticeable, and the LEDs and electro-illumi-

performance at The Kitchen in New York.

nating wire are embroidered into the translucent textile. The project consists of 3 different skirts and a bag. Inspiration: New York City

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Younghui Kim

Fiona Carswell San Francisco, California, USA

Biography: Fiona is an Irish-born artist and designer who is interested in highlighting curious aspects of human interaction and revealing subtle truths about one’s desires and self-perception. Her pseudo-functional, slightly absurdist body of work straddles the line between art and design and aims to cause people to reconsider the effect and motivation behind the designed ‘products’ that they use everyday. Her recent work explores visceral ways to visualize body data, such as a bikini that ‘grows’ moles in relation to sun exposure. Fiona received a Masters degree from ITP at New York University. She currently lives in San Francisco and works as a User Interface Engineer for Apple.

The Smoking Jacket (2007) Interactive Telecommunications Program, New York University, New York, New York, USA Keywords: data visualization, behavioral choices, smoking, jacket, visceral, emotional design

The Smoking Jacket is a conceptual, interactive, wearable piece, which promotes self-awareness in relation to the social pressures surrounding the behavioral choice of smoking. It serves as a visceral, iconographic feedback system and uses a carnivalesque absurdity as it presents information about the health effects through the medium

Fiona Carswell

131

of fashion. While wearing the jacket, a smoker

Malignant Mole Bikini (2007)

can exhale the smoke into a one-way air valve in

Interactive Telecommunications Program, New

the side of the collar. The smoke is then funneled

York University, New York, New York, USA

into a pair of plastic enclosed, transparent ‘lungs’ on the front of the jacket, filling them with smoke. After repeated exposure to the cigarette smoke, the air filter linings of the lungs begin to permanently darken. Materials: cloth, plastic tubing, air valves, air filters, embroidery Inspirations: ‘Smoke Doll’ by Daniel Goddemeyer, ‘Lung Ashtray’ by Finding Cheska, ‘ Wearable Body Organs’ by Kelly Dobson

132

Keywords: behavioral choices, data visualization, emotional design

The bikini appears normal when not in direct sunlight. However, when exposed to UV light dark moles begin to appear in various places on the bikini. This project was a result of exploring reflective design as it relates to the body, behavioral choices, and information displays. Material: UV sensitive paint

Fiona Carswell

Clutch (2006)

Q Quilt (2005)

Interactive Telecommunications Program, New

York University, New York, New York, USA

York University, New York, New York, USA with Nanna Halinen, Kate Hartman, Kati London,

Keywords: inter-human dependencies, codependent, survival technology, body warmth

Inter-human dependencies, such as the need

Megan MacMurray, Alice Tseng-Planas Keywords: assistive technology, flexible interface, therapy

for body warmth, can be lost in modern world technologies that aim for independence and self-

Q Quilt acts as a recording and playback de-

reliance. With these codependent gloves, you

vice. Each square records or plays sounds when

must hold hands in order to heat up each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

touched. The quiltâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exterior hides a complex,

hands, thereby promoting a physical and an ad-

soft, electronic circuit, which was constructed

ditional emotional security. When you interlock

using conductive materials. The quilt can be used

fingers to hold hands, both heating elements

as a therapeutic communication tool for people

are triggered through a series of magnets and

with limited mobility who need a flexible interface.

conductive fabric, warming both the back of your

It can also be embroidered and used as a memo-

hand, and the fingers of the other person.

rial or family storytelling quilt.

Materials: conductive fabric and thread, magnets,

Materials: conductive fabric, batting, metal

thermion heating element, battery

snaps, conductive thread, isd chip, cotton fabric, speakers, microphone

Fiona Carswell

133

Kouji Hikawa Tokyo, Japan

Biography: Kouji graduated from the Art of Nihon University in 1966. He worked as a product designer for Ricoh from 1966 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2003 and has won numerous awards like the Bicycle Design Competition Prize, the Mechanical Design Competition Prize, the Camera Design Competition Prize, the Mainiti Newspaper Design Competition Prize, and the YKK Fastening Award. He started to lecture at the Bunka Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s University in 2004 and graduated from the Tokyo Fashion School in 2006. In 2006 he received the Space Couture Award.

134

Kouji Hikawa

Space Suit and Space Suitcase (2006 - 2007) Tokyo, Japan Keywords: weightlessness, space, physical, information

As space tourism nears true realization, commercial space travel will very soon be available to the average person. However, the design of the classic space suit is disappointing in regard to the overall style, color, pattern, and the choice of material. The Space Couture contest, held by Eri Matsui in Japan, was established to conceive and design an official suit to be worn during space travel. In response the trompe-lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeil silhouette body was designed. It specifically counters the illusion of being overweight due to the swelling caused by weightlessness. A capsule set on the sleeve of the space suit is actually a sensor that detects weightlessness. A clock shows the flight duration and the moments of weightlessness are reflected as G=0. With additional capsules, space tourists can experiment with what occurs in a weightless environment by inserting their favorite items. They could insert a gold fish, a flower, or an insect for example. Special protective headgear and gripping shoes were also designed. The Space Suitcase is the ultimate space travel accessory and the attached external screen can display, among other things, e-mail from an earthbound friend.

Kouji Hikawa

135

Cooling Wear (2008)

Neck and Wrist Heater (2007)

Tokyo, Japan

Keywords: cooling, global warming, future

Keywords: heating, wearable, carbon film heater

In the summer of 2007, when the Space Suit was

The Neck and Wrist Heater warms the entire

designed, 40 ÂşC temperatures were recorded in

body by directing heat, derived from a carbon

Tokyo. With the rapid advancement of global

film heater, to strategic points on the body. From

warming the wearing of space suit type clothing

those points, the heat is then distributed through

should be considered. The Cool Wear features

the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own circulatory system.

a fan that generates a cool breeze inside the helmet. A fragrance capsule that smells like lemon is built into the mesh of the jersey. This scent repels tropical mosquitoes and the diseases that they may carry.

136

Kouji Hikawa

Cooling Helmet (2004) Tokyo, Japan Keywords: construction, cooling

This helmet is equipped with an air-cooling fan. It is designed for construction workers operating in the warm regions of the world. In the summer the temperature of a conventional helmet can reach

Solar Jacket for Enthusiast (2005)

45ŕ´&#x2019;. The cooling helmet is the solution and de-

Tokyo, Japan

creases the risk of heat related disorders.

Keywords: solar, cooling

This is a cooling jacket for the convertible sports car enthusiast. Electricity is generated with the flexible solar film on the back of the jacket and powers a small fan that sits behind the collar and cools the neck.

Kouji Hikawa

137

Philips Design Headquarters in Eindhoven, the Netherlands

Biography: Philips Design views the interaction between the human body, apparel and the near environment as the next big challenges. Skin is a particularly useful vehicle for new research and a fascinating subject. It has many functions; it is our largest sexual organ, an electrical network, an input device, a chemical and optical sensor, a display, a thermal regulator, a chemical filter and so on. Through the Skin Probe project, Philips Design explores the kind of materials that could emulate some of the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s particular functions. It investigates how we will interact with an increasingly dematerialized product universe. In the not-too-distant future, as media becomes virtual, function and form will be separated. This presents an opportunity to completely rethink our interaction with products and content.

140

Philips Design

The Skin Probe Project (2006) Bubelle – Blush Dress Eindhoven, the Netherlands with Stijn Ossevort, Sita Fisher, Oliver Gondorf, Lucy Mcrae, Ollie Niemi, Nancy Tilbury, Rachel Wingfield Keywords: emotional sensing, LED, projector dress

The Skin Probe is part of a ‘far-future’ design

The Bubelle – the ‘blushing dress’ – behaves

research initiative to study emerging trends and

differently depending on who is wearing it, and

behavior. It examines links with associated tech-

therefore exhibits completely nonlinear behavior.

nologies that may ultimately have a significant

A delicate ‘bubble’ surrounds it, that responds to

impact on business. The project examines more

skin contact by illuminating various patterns.

‘analog’ phenomena such as emotional sens-

Materials: polyester, non-woven fabric, LED

ing, and explores technologies that are ‘sensi-

projectors, glass fibre rods

tive’ rather than ‘intelligent’. Fashion is used as a medium to express the research, as apparel and textiles can be augmented with many new functionalities. Today a garment can be a highly complex interactive electronic or biochemical device. Rather than just being on or off, this marvelously intricate wearable prototype is designed to respond to an individual’s body and to create a visual representation of one’s emotions.

Philips Design

141

The Skin Probe Project (2006) Frisson â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Body Suit Eindhoven, the Netherlands with Sita Fisher, Oliver Gondorf, Lucy Mcrae, Ollie Niemi, Bram Ossevoort, Nancy Tilbury Keywords: biometric skin sensing, LED, bodysuit

The Frisson suit reacts to being blown on by igniting a private constellation of tiny LEDs, each painstakingly soldered onto a copper wire that was then attached to the fabric. Materials: lycra, framis, SMD LEDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, sensors, copper wire

142

Philips Design

New Nomads (2000) Keywords: wearable electronics, entertainment, information

New Nomads is a collection of prototypes that build on Philips Design’s initial work with wearable electronics and chart their exploration of smart apparel. The concept behind the project was to use smart apparel to provide people with better tools for communication, quick access to entertainment and information, and to provide

ICD+ (2000) Keywords: communication, workwear

users with greater freedom of action in a wide variety of fields.

Launched in 2000, the ICD+ line was the first tangible result of a collaborative effort between Levi’s and Philips. ICD+ brings together Levi’s know how in workwear and Philips’s pioneering technology. The four jackets in the ICD+ line

Vision of the Future Music T-Shirts (1995) Keywords: music, solar cells

The Vision of the Future project presented a col-

have a fully integrated communications system and ear-gear with wires concealed throughout the jacket that connect a mobile phone to a MP3 player with both being controlled by an independent unified remote.

lection of concepts that suggested ways that technology could enhance our lives in the near future. Music T-Shirts allow the user to listen to their favorite music by simply plugging in the attached earpieces. The shirts are washable garments, use miniaturized in-ear speakers and incorporate solar cells to provide energy.

Philips Design

143

Jayne Wallace Newcastle, UK

Biography: Jayneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s background is in contemporary art-jewelry. Her recently completed doctoral research explored the confluence of digital technologies and jewelry. She has collaborated with theorists, computer scientists and electronics experts in the realization of digital jewelry as well as the conceptual and theoretical implications surrounding it. Her work focuses on the use of technologically enhanced jewelry to extend and enrich intimate interpersonal communications. She has published widely across the fields of art, design, craft and human-computer interaction. In her current role as researcher in fine art at Newcastle University she is exploring the expressive power of ceramics in the development of digital jewelry.

144

Jayne Wallace

Journeys Between Ourselves (2007) Newcastle, UK with Patrick Olivier, Daniel Jackson, Cas Ladha, Andrew Monk, Peter Wright, Mark Blythe Keywords: digital-jewelry, emotional significance, meaningfulness

Journeys… are a pair of digital neckpieces custom made for a mother and daughter participating in Jayne´s research. The forms of the neckpieces are influenced in part by a Kay Nielsen illustration that is cherished by the couple. The neckpieces are responsive to touch; the touch of one causes the second to tremble gently. This interaction is a tactile echo that reflects their closeness and feelings for each other. Materials: porcelain, paper, felt, light sensors, motors, motes, accelerometers, batteries Inspirations: A. Dunn ’Hertzian Tales: Electronic products, aesthetic experience and critical design‘, Malin Lindmark Vrijman

Jayne Wallace

145

Sometimes Our Dreams & Memories Can Visit Us (2005 – 2006) Newcastle, UK

Blossom (2005) Newcastle, UK

with Patrick Olivier, Daniel Jackson

Keywords: digital-jewelry, emotional significance, meaningfulness

Blossom is a hand-worn jewelry object custom made for Ana, a participant in Jayne´s research.

Sometimes… is a digital neckpiece custom made

It is symbolic of her precious relationship with

for Faith, a participant in Jayne´s research. The

her family in Cyprus. The piece resides with Ana

piece echoes some of Faith´s old and cherished

in London, but is remotely connected to a rain

objects as well as her dreams and personal sto-

sensor planted on Cypriot family land. Once the

ries. It is a dreamy space where reality and fan-

sensor registers a predetermined quantity of rain,

tasy overlap and is a wearable home for stories

which may take months, a signal is sent to the

and memories. It is a way for their echoes to

jewelry-object and the structure inside opens like

’visit‘ Faith from time to time through silent film

a flower blossoming.

sequences that play on digital displays in near

Materials: wood, glass, silver, vintage postage

radius to the neckpiece.

stamps, nitinol wire, electronic components

Materials:

metal,

porcelain,

synthetic

silk,

Bluetooth components

146

Jayne Wallace

Traces (2005) UK Keywords: digital-jewelry, emotional significance, meaningfulness

Traces is about jewelry and made for a jeweler who doesn´t wear jewelry, but who highly values the medium, the history and social context of jewelry objects. Porcelain and velvet pieces evoke an antique jewelry case. The digital aspect reflects Emma´s descriptions of her daughter, particularly her voice, the songs she sings to herself and Emma´s desire to always be there for her. Each porcelain clasp shaped object captures audible elements of the surrounding environment and is a conceptual reflection on how heirloom objects, through marks of wear and tear, reveal aspects of their owners.

Jayne Wallace

147

Mouna Andraos New York, New York, USA Montreal, Canada

Biography: Mouna is a designer and artist

Address (2007 – ongoing)

working on interactive objects and installations

New York, New York, USA

as well as in the mediums of web, electronics

Produced with the support of Eyebeam

and video. In recent years, she has been fasci-

with Sonali Sridhar, Christopher Cummings,

nated by the idea of electronic jewelry and the

Melissa Cohen, Andy Doro

intersection of established crafts with emerging technologies. She has received many awards for

Keywords: digital anchor, location, displacement, home, connections

her web-based work including, Interactive prizes from both Communication Arts magazine and ID

Address is a handmade piece of electronic jewel-

magazine, a CyberLion in Cannes and Best of

ry created with Sonali Sridhar. When first acquir-

Show at the South by South West festival. She

ing the pendant, you select a place that you con-

holds a Masters degree from New York Univer-

sider to be your anchor ñ your birthplace, your

sity and a Bachelors from Concordia University.

home, or perhaps a place you long to be. Once

Mouna was recently an R&D fellow at Eyebeam’s

the jewelry is initialized it displays how many ki-

OpenLab in New York City and is currently an

lometers you are from that location. As you take

adjunct professor at NYU’s Interactive Telecom-

Address around the world with you, it serves as

munications Program.

a personal connection to that place, making the world a little smaller or maybe a little bigger. Materials: silver, acrylic, wood, electronics

148

Mouna Andraos

Sock Pod (2006) New York, New York, USA Keywords: MP3 player, music, portable, consumer electronics, soft circuits

The Sock Pod is a meter long music player that can be wrapped around your body, folded into a small ball or left hanging around your neck. It can be skinned with any other pair of knee-high socks stitched together. The Sock Pod also comes with a full set of instructions so you can modify it or build your own from scratch. Materials: hacked MP3 player, conductive thread, electronics, rubber buttons, strippy socks

Necklights (2006) New York, New York, USA Produced with the support of Eyebeam with Sonali Sridhar Keywords: necklace, light, rubber, silicone, soft, casted, broche, accessory

Necklights are small colored lights encasted inside rubber or silicone that can be worn as pendants or pinned to clothes as brooches. Necklights are hand made and each one is a unique combination of color and design. The circuit behind Necklights is itself built like a piece of jewelry using small beads and conductive thread.

Mouna Andraos

149

Ayah Bdeir New York, New York, USA

Biography: Ayah is an engineer, designer and activist. With an upbringing between Lebanon, Canada and the United States, Ayah’s work examines the role technology plays in cross-cultural communication. In her work, Ayah attempts to create technologies that promote human rights and redress power discrepancies between citizens and authority structures. Her work has appeared in several technical conferences as well as in numerous festivals and fashion shows. She recently earned her Masters from the MIT Media Lab as part of the Computing Culture Group. Ayah is currently a research fellow at the Eyebeam R&D Open Lab in New York.

<random> search (2007) Computing Culture Group, MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA Keywords: e-textile, bodysuit, pressure sensor, patdown, digital record

<random> search is an instrument that acts as a neutral, quantifiable witness to the screening process. A subtle, reactive undergarment detects

tion on the wearer, but rather provides him/her

and records any investigative body search. Un-

with clear evidence that can be used for analysis

detectable, wearable pressure sensors are dis-

and to incriminate.

tributed across the undergarment and transform

Materials: quantum tunneling composites, steel

it into a silent witness. When activated, the suit,

thread, metal mesh, conductive Velcro, number6

acting like our external memory, provides a digital

microcontroller, cotton, spandex

record of the search encounter. The technology

Inspirations: S. Rushdie ‘Step Across This Line’,

is personal, and does not compel a course of ac-

M. Foucault ‘Discipline and Punish’, E. Said ‘Out of Place’, The Stanford Prison Experiments

150

Ayah Bdeir

Arabiia (2006) OpenStitch, LocationOne Gallery, New York Keywords: arab stereotypes, convertible outfit, performance, wearables

Aside from Daisy Duck with her dance of the 7 veils, and the mute abiding second-class citizen in a black burka, few images spring to mind when thinking of an Arab woman. Arabiia is a caricature of media stereotypes typically associated with Arab women. This convertible outfit is equipped with two servo motors and a switch and enables its wearer to voluntarily choose which of two extreme representations fits her mood and audience. Inspirations: Hussein Chalayan, L. Arthur ‘Undressing religion’, online image search for Arab woman

kiNET (2005) MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA with Sergio Araya Keywords: e-textiles, animated surfaces, flexor pattern, magnetism

kiNET is a maliable wall with an animated surface that uses flexor patterns, microcontroller circuits and solenoids. The surface is active and no longer merely an opaque plane; rather it is a dynamic intervention in space that provokes human interaction. KiNET establishes a new relationship between the human body and architecture, one that challenges the usually neutral and stable role of matter. Materials: ABS plastic, copper solenoids, ATTiny23 Inspirations: Merleau-Ponty ‘Phenomenology of perception’, L. Howell ‘Compliant Mechanism’, N. Gershenfeld ‘FAB: The Coming Revolution on Your Desktop’

Ayah Bdeir

151

Teresa Almeida Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Biography: Teresa is an artist, designer and

Lags (2007)

educator. She is interested in the relationship

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

between art, technology, wearables and social sculptures. Her work is an exploration of dynamic

Keywords: Batik textile, traditional, technology, jet lag, life

structures fashioned to the body for use in public spaces. She holds a Masters degree from the

Social jet lag is, according to research, putting

Interactive Telecommunications Program at New

us at risk of chronic fatigue and manifests itself

York University. She is currently living and work-

when our body´s circadian rhythm is out of sync.

ing in Malaysia where she is a lecturer in Design

Lags are designed to counter social jet lag. Eye-

Research at LUCT, Faculty of Design Innovation

Lag consists of a pair of goggles equipped with a

in Cyberjaya.

warm soft yellow light inside that simulates reassuring sunlight. HeadLag is a bracelet and soft pillow, for when one needs to nap. Lags are constructed using the free accessories handed out on intercontinental flights, lo-tech electronics and applied textiles that use traditional Batik materials and Malaysian wax-resist patterning techniques. Materials: lags, traditional Batik materials, waxresist patterning techniques, miscellaneous electronics, LEDs, conductive thread and Velcro, batteries, micro fan, touch switch Inspirations: P. Staple ’Flights of Fancy‘ (Frieze), W. Gibson ’Pattern Recognition‘ (New Scientist), research on social jet lag

152

Teresa Almeida

Yuga (2005)

Modes for Urban Moods (2005)

Ljudmila-Ljubljana Digital Media Lab, Ljubljana,

Interactive Telecommunications Program, New

Slovenia

York University, New York, New York, USA

with Luka Frelih, Marcela Okretic

with Michiru Murakami

Keywords: wearable, noise, felt, urban space, social space

Yuga is a set of wearable coping mechanisms and

Modes for Urban Moods are a suite of wearable

consists of a belt and a handbag. Both objects

coping mechanisms that explore our relationships

are literally attention getters. The belt interacts

to public spaces and that materialize invisible as-

with the environment using a sensor that detects

pects of social networks. Space Dress inflates

physical proximity and movement. The handbag

on the wearer´s command and is designed to

assists in managing feelings of alienation by emit-

cope with stress, anxiety and claustrophobic situ-

ting a brief composition when activated, also call-

ations or to simply provide additional comfort. It

ing attention back to the user’s presence.

was originally designed for rush hour use on the

Materials: Arduino, Ping sensor, speakers, elec-

NYC subway system.

tronics

Materials: rip-stop nylon, micro fans, small elec-

Inspirations: François-Xavier Courrèges, K67

tronics, switch

kiosk by Sasha J. Mächtig, J. Kristeva ’Strangers

Inspirations: archigram.net, Rei Kawakubo,

to Ourselves‘

Lucy Orta, N. Bourriaud ’Relational Aesthetics‘, H. Lefebvre ’Everyday Life in the Modern World‘

Teresa Almeida

153

Cat Mazza microRevolt Troy, New York, USA

Biography: Cat is a 2007 Rockefeller Renew

knitted design includes the IP address of a web-

Media fellow and Assistant Professor of New

site created for needlecraft file sharing. The

Media at UMass, Boston. She is the founder of

Ottoman Hack was created with an electronic

microRevolt, which focuses on combining craft

hobbyist-knitting machine.

and digital technologies while commenting on the history of labor activism. microRevolt projects introduce contemporary craft hobbyists to digital tools like freeware knitPro and then engage them in activist projects. It has been featured in numerous exhibitions worldwide, including the contemporary textile exhibition Radical Lace and Subversive Knitting at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. In addition, microRevolt participated in the Prix Ars Electronica, where it received a ’Digital Communities‘ award. microRevolt projects have been featured in various publications, including the New York Times, KnitKnit, MIT’s Leonardo Electronic Almanac and World Changing: A Users Guide to the 21st Century.

Ottoman Hack (2007) Troy, New York, USA Keywords: knitting, knitting-machine, pattern, software

The Ottoman Hack was created for the Hackers and Haute Couture Heretics exhibit at the Garanti Gallery in Istanbul. The project was a query into how hacking and heresy can be applied to the field of subversive fashion. It involved hacking an Ottoman Pillow from the VAKKO fashion collection, an upscale Turkish fashion brand. The traditional Turkish floral was transformed into a knit pattern using knitPro freeware. The final 154

Cat Mazza, microRevolt

KnitPro (2004 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2005) Troy, New York, USA with Eric St. Onge Keywords: freeware, knitting, patterns

knitPro is a free web application that translates digital images into needlecraft grid patterns (www. microRevolt.org/knitPro). knitPro is based on the tradition of preindustrial craft circles to freely share patterns and pass them down from generation to generation. knitPro digitally mimics this tradition. Thousands of patterns are uploaded to the website each week by craft hobbyists worldwide.

Cat Mazza, microRevolt

155

Ebru Kurbak & Mahir M. Yavuz Linz, Austria & Istanbul, Turkey

Biography: Ebru and Mahir are both PhD candi-

for a knitted sweater. The system consists of two

dates at the University of Arts and Industrial De-

different types of software: one that receives the

sign Linz, Austria. They collaborated on various

content from live feeds the other converts it into

projects while working together as instructors at

visual patterns. A fully computerized flat knitting

the Istanbul Bilgi University Department of Visual

machine produces the final output. Each News

Communication Design. News Knitter is their first

Knitter sweater is the unique result of a specific

project that contributes to the wearable realm.

news day or time period.

Their main focus is creating â&#x20AC;&#x2122;daily wearablesâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;, which on one hand involve an innovative, digitally enhanced, pre-production process and on the other hand are produced, packed and exhibited using conventional methods.

News Knitter (2007) Linz, Austria & Istanbul, Turkey Keywords: knitting, data visualization, news, rss feeds

News Knitter is a data visualization project, which focuses on knitted garments as an alternative medium for displaying large-scale data. The system converts information, gathered from live RSS news feeds, and incorporates it into clothing. News from the Internet that is broadcast within 24 hours or a pre-defined period is analyzed, filtered and converted into a unique visual pattern 156

Ebru Kurbak & Mahir M. Yavuz

Fabienne Blanc & Patrick Rüegg Aarau, Switzerland

Biography: Patrick attended the Swiss-Italian

be-geistert (2007)

College of Art ‘Liceo Artistico’ based in Zurich,

Aarau, Switzerland

and has since continued his studies in Industrial

with Roland Brönnimannt

Design at the Fachhochschule Nordwestschweiz in Aarau. He is currently based in Zurich as an

Keywords: analogous display, scarf, knitting, creditcard data, pacman ghosts

artist at atelier ‘Schafferei’. Fabienne went to college and majored in modern languages. In ad-

A magnetic stripe reader captures credit card

dition, she studied pharmacology in Basel and

data from a customer. Software then converts

continued her studies in Media Art at the Fach-

the credit card information into pure text. A pat-

hochschule Nordwestschweiz in Aarau. In 2007

tern emerges as this information is further trans-

she exhibited a project entitled ‘Synesthesia’ in

formed into binary codes, with every number ’1‘

the Kunstraum Aarau. She is currently an artist

being substituted by a graphical ghost. The code

based in Aarau and Gränichen.

is printed on paper to be read by the scanner of the knitting machine. The personal credit card data is then knitted into a 100% cotton scarf in green and black. Inspirations: www.sode.li, hello.eboy.com, www.mintymonkey.com

Fabienne Blanc & Patrick Rüegg

157

Maurin Donneaud, XYinteraction Paris, France

Biography: Maurin is a designer specializing in interaction design and physical computing. He works on new textile interfaces which explore gestural, ludic and intuitive interactions. Fascinated by craft and new technologies, he strives to make technology more human. By combining textiles and electronics, he brings a new sensibility to the conception of numeric controllers. His idea is to enchance the interactive nature of computional media by incoporating gesture. Maurin graduated in industrial design from the French National School of Industrial Creation, ENSCI Les Ateliers in Paris.

160

Maurin Donneaud, XYinteraction

Textile XY : A Textile Interface For Playing Electronic Music (2007 – 2008)

tion. Like a music score, the sound elements are

Paris, France

Inspirations: ENIGMES, Leah Buchley ‘A new

with Marco Marini, Roland Cahen, Vincent Rioux,

aesthetic for electronics’, ‘Dialectric’ by Laura

Vincent Roudaut

and Lawrence MacCary

graphically represented on the fabric, giving the composer the ability to locate and play them.

Keywords: musical textile, interface, interaction, tactile, e-textile, sensor

The XY interactive textile is a large tactile interface for playing electronic music. The performer plays it simply by moving his/her hand over its surface. This textile interface allows users to compose and interpret electronic music through choreographed movements. This textile interface involves the whole body in the musical interpreta-

Electronic Music Performance With XY Textile Interface (2007)

both musican and dancer which creates a unique

Paris, France

Marco shows how the movements of his hands

with Marco Marini

bring the music to life.

mis-en-scene of the score. Facing the audience,

Keywords: performance, musical textile, interface, textile controller

The XY interactive textile is a large tactile interface used by Marco Marini a French ElectroAcoustic composer. A textile score was created in collaboration with this artist and in his performances Marco interpretes this interactive score. The movement of his hands on the textile surface triggers musical leitmotives while each graphic pattern allows Marco to localise and play a sound. His role is transformed as he becomes Maurin Donneaud, XYinteraction

161

Magdalena Kohler & Hanna Wiesener Berlin, Germany

Biography: After finishing a goldsmith apprenticeship in 2001, Magdalena worked as a freelance jewelery artist in Austria. Since 2004 she has studied fashion design at the University of the Arts in Berlin. Hanna majored in cultural studies and art history at Humboldt University, Berlin and Paris from 2000 until 2004. Since 2004 she has studied product design and interactive systems at the University of the Arts in Berlin.

TRIKOTON - The Voice Knitting Collection (2007) Berlin & Apolda, Germany with Design Reaktor Berlin Keywords: spoken messages, knitting patterns

TRIKOTON focuses on the human voice, its different recording and reproduction techniques, and the connection between communication and fashion. The frequency band of a spoken message is converted into a binary code for knitting patterns. GELSOMINA is a mechanical voice knitting machine from the 70s that was hacked to become interactive. A microcontroller and 24 small engines are used to imitate a pattern card that is directly generated by voice signals. This online based process makes it possible to transfer a personal and unique spoken message into a fashion piece.

162

Magdalena Kohler & Hanna Wiesener

Burton Burlington, Vermont, USA

Audex Bluetooth Jacket (2005 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2008) Burlington, Vermont, USA with Motorola, Apple, Fibretronic Keywords: audio, cell phone, iPod

Biography: Burton Snowboards is a snowboard

The imbedded Audex system operates via a re-

company soley dedicated to the creation and per-

moveable control module on the jacket sleeve

fection of a wide range of snowboarding equip-

and allows the wearer to interact with their mo-

ment and apparel. Founded in 1977, they are

bile phone and iPod. The system connects to the

headquartered in Burlington, Vermont with inter-

mobile phone via a Bluetooth wireless link. Wired

national offices in Innsbruck, Austria, Tokyo, Ja-

connections to the iPod and stereo speakers en-

pan and Sydney, Australia. Burton has fueled the

able the wearer to select music via the control

growth of snowboarding worldwide through its

module. Wires are hidden for seamless, unob-

team of top snowboarders and through their in-

trusive wearability, and the connectors are de-

ternational Open Snowboarding Championships.

signed to be washable. The control module has

Burtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products continue to evolve to meet the

large tactile feedback buttons for easy operation

needs of their team riders. Their garments incor-

while wearing gloves. Stereo speakers are built

porate the latest wearable technologies to pro-

into the hood of the jacket and a microphone is

vide enhanced communication and entertainment

embedded in the upper section near the collar.

features.

Phone and iPod zip safely into specially designed pockets for a perfect fit.

Burton

163

R.E.D. Audex (2005 – 2008) Burlington, Vermont, USA with Motorola, Apple Keywords: audio, cell phones, iPod

The Audex helmet utilizes Bluetooth wireless technology. To operate the Audex features, wearers simply press a large call button on the side of the helmet that is easy to use while wearing gloves. The call button allows the wearer to answer, end and make mobile phone calls as well as other functions. The headset easily detaches from the helmet and can be worn on its own.

Burton Amp Jacket (2003 – 2005) Burlington, Vermont, USA with Softswitch Keywords: iPod, audio, jacket

The Burton Amp jacket integrates the iPod control system into the jacket using SOFTswitch technology, which allows the iPod to be controlled through a soft, flexible control pad integrated directly into the arm of the Amp jacket. Riders simply touch the control pad on the jacket sleeve to change songs or volume levels, while the iPod is held safely in the jacket’s chest pocket.

164

Burton

Burlington, Vermont, USA

Analog Clone MD Jacket (2002 - 2003)

with Softswitch

Burlington, Vermont, USA

Burton Amp Pack (2003 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2005)

with Sony, Softswitch Keywords: iPod, audio, backpack Keywords: Walkman, audio

The Burton Amp Pack integrates an iPod control system using SOFTswitch technology, which

The Analog Clone MD is a snowboard jacket

allows the iPod to be controlled through a soft,

with a built-in mini-disc system. The fabric of the

flexible control pad built into the packâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoul-

jacket has electronic switching capabilities made

der strap. The Amp Pack features a secure iPod

possible by combining conductive textile materi-

storage pocket, a headphone port located on the

als and flexible composites. Snowboarders can

shoulder strap, an easy-access side entry laptop

control the MD player with touch-sensitive con-

compartment and padded ergonomic shoulder

trol buttons located on the sleeve.

straps for ultimate comfort.

Burton

165

Nike Portland, Oregon, USA

Biography: Nike started with a handshake be-

Nike+ (since 2006)

tween two visionaries, Bill Bowerman and the

Portland, Oregon, USA

University of Oregon runner, Phil Knight. They

with Apple

and their team evolved and grew the company that became Nike from a US-based footwear distributor, to a global marketer of athletic footwear,

Keywords: motivation, running, audio feedback, ergonomic design, weather protection

apparel and equipment. The emotion of sport pro-

With Nike+ footwear wirelessly connected to your

vides the inspiration while Nikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attitude to new

iPod nano, information on time, distance, calories

technology and ideas provide the innovation.

burned and pace is stored and displayed on the screen; real-time audible feedback is also provided through headphones. The kit includes an in-shoe sensor and a receiver that attaches to the iPod. After a workout, simply connect your iPod nano to a Mac or PC to automatically sync and store workout data. You can then view and evaluate personal training goals through a dynamic, customized workout log on www.nikeplus.com.

166

Nike

Nike Amp+ (2007) Portland, Oregon, USA with Apple Keywords: wristband, remote control, Nike+ iPod receiver

This is a wristband that works with the Nike+ iPod receiver to remotely provide runners with quick, easy access to progress updates and music. Runners can now keep their iPod nano securely stored in their Nike+ integrated pocket or armband and access their PowerSong or verbal feedback without missing a step. The Nike Amp+ captures data of a run through a signal from the sensor in Nike+ footwear. Runners can also remotely fast forward and rewind, browse through songs, adjust volume, and pause workouts with ease from an interface embedded into the strap.

COMMVEST (2003 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2005) Portland, Oregon, USA Keywords: push-to-talk, mountain, communication

Nike used the insights of mountain rescue teams and ski patrols to design an ergonomic, quickaccess communications vest with an embedded speaker near the ear, a microphone near the mouth and a push-to-talk button at the chest. The push-to-talk tab has 2 buttons that need to be squeezed in order to activate the radio, decreasing the possibility of unintentional microphone activation.

Nike

167

Fibretronic Skipton, UK & Hong Kong

Biography: Fibretronic is a leading developer,

BlueWear Handsfree Module (2007)

manufacturer and supplier of soft electronic

Skipton, UK & Hong Kong

technologies and components designed specifically for application in clothing and soft goods. The company can embed any type of electronic functionality into flexible substrates for use in garments, bags, sportswear and wearable soft accessories. Fibretronicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s product range includes keypads, switches, sensors, textile data cables, lighting systems and communications accessories.

Keywords: wearable communication, BlueWear handsfree module

Fibretronicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique BlueWear module is a selfcontained soft accessory for the hands free operation of mobile phones. The module incorporates a speaker, a microphone and a call answer/hangup button. Also incorporated are volume controls for the speaker and a mini USB port for battery charging. The product attaches to the outside of a garment or bag using Velcro or snaps and allows the wearer to receive calls without having to remove their mobile phone handset from the safety of a pocket.

168

Fibretronic

O’Neill H4 Ent. Jacket (2007) Skipton, UK with O’Neill Europe Keywords: wearable iPod controls, snowboard jackets, Fiddler joystick

The H4 Ent. Jacket uses Fibretronic’s Fiddler iPod joystick controller integrated into the sleeves of high performance snowboarding jackets. Fibretronic developed a unique joystick system that is ultrasonically welded into the jacket sleeve. This allows for seamless integration of the technology without any stitching while retaining a water resistance of 10,000mm.

Fibretronic

169

Reusch Sonic Control Glove (2006)

Levis Red Wire DLX Jeans (2006)

Skipton, UK

Hong Kong

with Reusch International License (Spain)

with Levi Strauss & Co Europe S.C.A. (Belgium)

Keywords: wireless iPod controls, sonic control glove, wearable keypad

Keywords: wearable iPod controls, Red Wire DLX jeans, Fiddler joystick

The glove incorporates Fibretronicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s RF wireless keypad system integrated into the back of

A five function joystick controller is integrated into

the hand along with a wireless transmitter located

the watch pocket of the jeans along with an audio

in a specially designed waterproof pocket in the

socket for the connection of earphones. A textile

cuff of the glove. Using a receiver connected to

data cable carries the joystick commands and au-

the iPod, the commands from the keypad can be

dio signals to a dedicated iPod pocket. Here, the

sent to the iPod remotely.

textile cable connects to a specially designed interface cradle that acts as a docking station and protective holder for the iPod.

170

Fibretronic

O’Neill Warmond, The Netherlands

Biography: O’Neill, the original Californian surf, snow and lifestyle brand, was founded in 1952 by a young man with an unstoppable passion for surfing named Jack O’Neill. He pioneered the world’s first neoprene wetsuit and opened up his first surf shop in Santa Cruz. O’Neill’s set of core values, innovation in style and technology, has seen the brand devote itself to the evolution of action sports. The company’s HDivision has gone on to develop a range of groundbreaking wearable electronics.

NavJacket (2008 – 2009) Warmond, The Netherlands with ROAD Group, MyGuide, Fibretronic Keywords: GPS, navigation, snowboarding

The NavJacket allows you to easily navigate through the mountains with the help of an integrated display on the sleeve and audio instructions in the hood. Simply enter your desired location and let the NavJacket guide you effortlessly down the slopes. Your current speed, up-to-date local weather forecasts, and in-depth details about your route, such as distance and time have all been incorporated into the flexible display sleeve on the jacket. Using your mobile phone connected to the GPS unit, 3D views of the resorts will also be available. An additional innovative feature of the NavJacket is a friend finder function, which will allow you to either track down friends, or choose to follow their path through the slopes.

O’Neill

171

H4 Series (2007 – 2008)

H3 Series (2006 – 2007)

Warmond, The Netherlands

with Fibretronic

with Interactive Wear

Keywords: Walkie-Talkie, MP3, mobile phones

Keywords: snowboarding, camera, audio

The Walkie-Talkie Jacket is aimed at the more ad-

The Campack allows the user to record their ses-

venturous freerider., This jacket features a walk-

sions without removing the camera from the pack

ie-talkie connector and convenient chest pocket

by incorporating a safe and protective housing

for safe device storage. The jacket’s collar fea-

for a camcorder into the backpack and a sepa-

tures an integrated speaker and microphone with

rate lens fitted to a flex. The small, hi-definition

a ‘push-to-talk’ button in the windflap that keeps

lens can be attached to goggle straps or helmets

you connected to friends. The Fat Controller

while the basic operating functions for the cam-

incorporates a wireless remote control for iPod

era are remotely controlled by a joystick integrat-

MP3 players, allowing the wearer to control tune

ed into the shoulder strap.

selection via a discrete, thumb-controlled joystick woven into the top of the left-hand glove.

172

O’Neill

H2 Series (2005 – 2006)

The HUB (2004 – 2005)

Warmond, The Netherlands

with Eleksen, True Solar Automony

with Infineon

Keywords: Bluetooth, snowboarding, solar, iPod

Keywords: MP3 player, Bluetooth, snowoarding, mobile phone

The Integrated Solar Backpack incorporates two flexible solar panels and a Bluetooth module. In

An invisible, durable and unhindering wiring sys-

optimum light conditions the solar cells provide

tem is woven into the jacket allowing the user to

charge to the users’ iPod, mobile phone and

control their MP3 player via a control pad blended

Bluetooth module via a USB recharging system.

into the fabric on the left arm. The HUB incorpo-

Once installed the iPod can be controlled via a

rates Bluetooth technology and allows the rider

soft control panel located on the packs left shoul-

to make and receive calls using voice recognition

der strap.

dialing.

O’Neill

173

Alyce Santoro Fort Davis, Texas, USA

Biography: Alyce is a sound and installation artist with a background in biology and scientific illustration. While racing small sailboats as a child she noticed short strands of cassette tape that sailors often use as wind indicators. She remembers thinking that, if the wind hits the tape just right, she would be able to hear whatever had been recorded onto the tape. Many years later she learned about Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags that are hung in auspicious locations where the wind can â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;activateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the sounds and carry their blessings around the world. This inspired Alyce to create a fabric woven from actual recorded sound.

176

Alyce Santoro

Sonic Fabric (2001 – ongoing) Distributor since 2007: Designtex, New York, New York, USA Weavers: J. C. Lafond, Manville, Rhode Island, USA & Shangri-La Crafts, Katmandu, Nepal Keywords: cassette tape, sonic fabric, audible, recycled, textile

Sonic Fabric is a versatile, durable, audible textile woven from 50% recorded audiocassette tape and 50% polyester thread. Since the tape retains its magnetic properties throughout the weaving process, sound can be emitted from the material by running an apparatus made from a tape head along its surface. The fabric has a canvas texture and a slightly metallic luster. Before the tape is woven, it is recorded with a variety of layered sounds collected and compiled by the designer. Inspirations: Joseph Beuys, J. Bass ‘Smile of the Buddha: Eastern Philosophy and Western Art’, The Freesounds Project http://freesound.iua.upf. edu/index.php

Alyce Santoro

177

Marcelo Coelho Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA

Biography: Marcelo is a graduate student at the Ambient Intelligence Group at the MIT Media Lab. His work explores how material technologies and computation can aid in the design of responsive garments, objects and spaces, and provide more meaningful interfaces for our personal and social activities. His art and computational explorations have been published and exhibited at the Societe des arts technologiques, VAV Gallery, Digifest, Collision Collective, SIGGRAPH, ISWC, Ubicomp and CHI, among others.

178

Marcelo Coelho

Shutters (2007) MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA with Steve Helsing, Analisa Russo, Elly Jessop Keywords: textile, responsive façade, shape memory alloy, soft display

Shutters is a kinetic e-textile membrane for environmental control and communication within an

Sprout I/O (2006)

architectural and wearable context. It consists

MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts,

of a curtain composed of actuated louvers that

USA

can be individually addressed for precise control of ventilation, daylight incidence and information

Keywords: textile, shape memory alloy, kinetic, fur

display. Shutters’ soft mechanics is based on the electronic actuation of 32 strands of shape-mem-

Sprout I/O is a kinetic fur that can capture and

ory alloy. Each strand can be precisely controlled

replay the physical impressions we leave in our

to angle the louvers and dynamically adjust their

environment. It combines embedded actuators

aperture, which regulates shade and ventilation

with a texturally rich substrate that is soft and

and also displays images and animations. Shut-

fuzzy, to create a dynamic structure where every

ters’ substrate is built from a fire retardant wool

fur strand can sense physical touch and be indi-

felt which is ideal for complex laser cutting pat-

vidually moved. Sprout I/O is constructed from

terns and the integration of electronics and con-

wool felt, shape-memory alloy and conductive

ductive threads. This responsive building façade

threads.

can also be scaled for the construction of kinetic

Inspiration: The unpredictable fusion of a shag

wearable displays, developing smart garments

carpet and a kraken’s tentacles.

that inspire sartorial whimsy and creative expression. By combining smart materials, textiles and computation, Shutters creates living environments and work spaces that are more energy efficient, while being aesthetically pleasing. Inspirations: Kinetic sculptures by Tim Prentice.

Marcelo Coelho

179

MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, Massachusetts,

Soft Mechanics (2007 - ongoing)

Pulp-Based Computing (2006 - ongoing)

USA

XS Labs, Montreal, Canada

with Analisa Russo, Aria Reynolds

with Joanna Berzowska, Lyndl Hall

Keywords: soft machines, shape memory alloy, mechanics, knitting

Keywords: electronic paper, conductive inks, papermaking, embedded electronics

Soft Mechanics focus on the development of

Pulp-Based Computing is a series of explorations

taxonomy of kinetic elements to guide the design

that combine smart materials, papermaking and

of wearable machines. It is primarily focused on

printing. By integrating electrically active inks

aesthetics as well as the shapes and movements

and fibers during the papermaking process, it is

of the body. While traditional mechanics are

possible to create sensors and actuators that be-

predicated on the physics of hard materials, Soft

have, look, and feel like paper. These composite

Mechanics draws its inspiration from the soft sur-

materials, not only leverage the physical and tac-

faces, rich textures and traditional techniques of

tile qualities of paper, but can also convey digital

textiles.

information.

Inspiration: Leonardo da Vinciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basic machine

Inspiration: Traditional papermaking techniques

elements, Christopher Polhemâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Machine Alphabet

180

Marcelo Coelho

Zane Berzina London, UK

Biography: Zane works on interdisciplinary projects across the fields of science, technology, design and the arts. Her research revolves around responsive and interactive textiles, new textile materials as well as biomimetics. Her practicebased PhD completed in 2005, at the University of the Arts in London, explored skin as a naturally intelligent material and examined its aesthetic and functional potential for translation into responsive and active textile systems. Currently she is a CHRRCT, Goldsmiths College, University of London, an Associate of the Goldsmiths Digital Studios and a co-founder and Creative Director of the e-text+textiles initiative in Riga, Latvia.

Zane Berzina

181

E-Static Shadows (2007 – 2009) Goldsmiths, University of London, UK & Insquare, London, UK & TITV - Textile Research Institute Thuringia-Vogtland, Germany & Queen Mary University of London, UK with Janis Jefferies, Jackson Tan, Andres Melo, Natalie Stingelin-Stutzmann Keywords: responsive environments, e-textiles, electrostatics, LEDs

The research project ‘E-Static Shadows‘ (funded by AHRC) explores the speculative and poetic potential of the static electricity that surrounds our interactions in urban environments. The study investigates how electrostatic energy generated by human interactions could be translated into other types of energy for the development of responsive textile systems. These systems will be capable of detecting, processing and displaying electrostatic charges as dynamic audio-visual patterns. Ideally, these poetic translations, embedded in the soft medium of cloth, shall provoke a higher awareness of the electrostatic waves surrounding our habitat and initiate playful interactions between the viewer(s) and the space. Materials: conductive threads, LEDs, transistors, woven or stitched e-textile systems, power supply Inspirations: M. Shelley ‘Frankenstein’, A. Dunne ‘Hertzian Tales: Electronic Products, Aesthetic Experience, and Critical Design’, ‘E-Static’ by Jackson Tan, ‘D-Tower’ by Nox, ‘Tri-Aura’ by Frances Geesin, Shihoko Fukumoto, Frame, View on Colour, Future Materials

182

Zane Berzina

System I (2006)

Skin Architecture (2004)

London, UK

London College of Fashion, University of the Arts

with TITV - Textile Research Institute Thuringia-

London, London, UK

Vogtland, Germany Keywords: responsive membrane, color change, e-textiles

Keywords: poly-sensual, color change, olfactory, e-textiles

Skin Architecture offers a sensory experience that System I mimics skin properties that are regulat-

simultaneously involves sight, smell and touch.

ed by our nervous system. The operating princi-

The magnified skin pieces are visually animated

ple is based on the properties of thermochromic

by low electric stimuli passing through conduc-

materials which change color when reacting to

tive threads integrated into the silicone objects.

an increase or decrease in heat initiated by elec-

As the resistance heat radiates, the color change

tric stimuli. When the electrical circuit is open the

patterns increase until the entire piece changes

entire textile system undergoes fluctuating color

color, while simultaneously releasing relaxing

changes.

aromas.

Inspirations: skin biology, biomimetics, ‘Electric

Materials: silicone, thermochromic inks,

Plaid’ by International Fashion Machines,

aromatic oils, conductive threads, remote

XSLabs

control, power supply Inspirations: skin biology, biomimetics, ‘Electric Plaid’ by International Fashion Machines, XSLabs

Zane Berzina

183

Touch Me Wallpaper (2003 – ongoing)

Sensory Screen (2002 – 2006)

London, UK

London, London, UK

Keywords: responsive membrane, skin, color change, touch sensitive

Keywords: responsive membrane, skin, color change, e-textile

Touch Me Wallpaper is an interactive sensory-

Sensory Screen contributes to the underlying

appeal textile membrane that changes color in

concept of skin as sensor, display and communi-

reponse to environmental or human heat. People

cator. It is a medium that is capable of reflecting

are invited to interact with the wallpaper by touch-

our reactions to various psychological or physi-

ing it and creating their own bodily heat patterns,

cal stimuli coming from the outer world. Linear

which are temporarily recorded on the wall until

patterns occur in places where semi-conductive

they fade away completely. The wall acts like a

threads are incorporated when an electric cur-

visual thermometer to changes in levels of heat

rent passes through.

initiated by human skin warmth by creating body

Materials: thermochromic inks, conductive

prints of various intensities.

threads, nonwovens, remote control, power

Materials: thermochromic inks, flame retardant

supply

nonwovens

Inspirations: E. Lupton ‘Skin: Surface,

Inspirations: D. Anzieu ‘The Skin Ego’,

Substance and Design’, C. Benthien ‘Haut,

‘Chromazone’ by Karim Rashid, table with a

Literaturgeschichte – Körperbilder –

thermochromic finish by FLASK

Grenzdiskurse’

184

Zane Berzina

London College of Fashion, University of the Arts

Grado Zero Espace Empoli, Italy

Biography: Grado Zero Espace is company specializing in design, innovation and technology. Their mission is to develop new materials and technologies for industry with the aim of improving the quality of life. The company acts in partnership with many industrial branches and research fields including the European Space Agency. Their innovative materials and ideas are finding myriad applications in fibers, fabrics, composite textile structures, extreme sport equipment and safety equipment.

Grado Zero Espace

185

K-Cap (2007) Empoli, Italy with European Space Agency Keywords: anatomical comfort, transpiration, thermal regulation

K-Cap is a balaclava designed especially for high altitude use. It is being developed as part of a project for the design and development of specialized clothing equipment to be used during a scientific expedition on Mt. Everest. It consists of a memory active membrane, which modifies its physical structure according to variations in temperature, copying the behavior of human skin. In addition it has two layers of bi-stretch fabric that render the structure â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;activeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, allowing complete freedom of movement. Materials: shape memory membrane, bi-stretch warp-knit fabric

186

Grado Zero Espace

Hinoki LS (2007)

SpaceBra (2006)

Empoli, Italy

with European Space Agency

Keywords: antibacterial, antiseptic, thermal regulation, relaxing property, eco friendly fabric

Keywords: body conscious, body active, body sculpture, shape memory effect

Hinoki fiber holds particular properties that make

SpaceBra is a wearable vital-functions monitor-

it fit for use in clothing. The fiber comes from

ing system with medical, sport and fashion ap-

the Eastern Cypress tree and has intrinsic anti-

plications that takes advantage of the conductive

bacterial and antiseptic properties. Moreover the

and superelastic properties of Shape Memory

well-known relaxing properties of Hinoki allow

Alloys. SpaceBra can detect changes in body

this fiber to become a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;therapeuticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; instrument in

form that may indicate a potential health problem

alignment with feng shui principles.

(medical), monitors heart rate (sports), and can

Materials: Hinoki cypress fabric

change shape to provide varying levels of support (fashion). Materials: shape memory fabric, knitting fabric

Grado Zero Espace

187

Wearable Cooling Systems (2002)

Oricalco Shirt (2001)

Empoli, Italy

with Corpo Nove

with European Space Agency

Keywords: cooling system, ergonomics, comfort, silk looking

Keywords: smart alloys, self-ironing shirt, crystallographic configuration

The Cooling Jacket is based on a technology de-

The Thermal Shape Memory Alloy is character-

veloped in America in the Sixties and incorporat-

ized by its extraordinary ability to recover any

ed into the work clothing at some nuclear facili-

shape, pre-programmed, upon heating. The fab-

ties. GZe cooperated with the brand Corpo Nove

ric used on for the sleeves of the Oricaloco shirt

to redesign the cooling circuit and transform its

could be programmed to shorten immediately as

conventional features. They also upgraded its

the room temperature became a few degrees

technological aspects making it lighter and more

hotter. The fabric can be screwed up into a hard

efficient. It is applied on mechanicsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; suits on the

ball, pleated and creased and then automatically

McLaren Mercedes racing team.

pop back to its original shape with just exposing

Materials: silver silk, plastic tubes, nomex

it to hot air (even a hair dryer). Materials: shape memory knitting fabric

188

Grado Zero Espace

Voltaic New York, New York, USA

Biography: Voltaic was founded in 2003 by Shayne McQuade to develop green energy solutions and sustainable products. Through environmentally intelligent designs, Voltaic solar bags give students, travelers and outdoor lovers the ability to stay powered-up anywhere. Voltaicâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s objective is to push the envelope in the development of sustainable products.

Generator (2008) New York, New York, USA Keywords: solar, bags, environmentally friendly, recycle

Voltaicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Generator bag uses a single solar panel to produce up to 14.7 watts of power. A full day of sunlight generates enough power for fully charge a typical laptop. The bag also charges virtually all other handheld electronics. The bag includes a battery pack custom designed to efficiently capture and store solar power so it is available whether the sun is up or not. It holds the equivalent of a full laptop charge, and delivers power at voltages required by laptops and other devices. Adaptors are included for easy connection to common laptops, phones and universal plugs. Devices can also be connected via a car charger or the USB plug built into the battery. Materials: PET, solar panels

Voltaic

189

Messenger, Converter, Backpack (since 2003) New York, New York, USA Keywords: solar, bags, environmental friendly, recycle

The Voltaic solar bags are mobile solar power generators designed to charge virtually all handheld electronic devices. Embedded in the outside of the bags are three lightweight, tough, waterproof solar panels. One hour of direct sunlight will provide power for over three hours of iPod play time or over 1.5 hours of talk time on a typical cell phone. Voltaicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest line of bags is being manufactured using innovative new fabrics made from recycled soda bottles (PET). Materials: PET, solar panels

190

Voltaic

Ivo Locher, Sefar Heiden, Switzerland

Biography: Ivo is part of the electronic fabrics

Sefar PowerMatrix (2008)

R&D team at Sefar. Sefar is a worldwide leading

Heiden, Switzerland

manufacturer of monofilament precision fabrics.

with Marcel Strotz, Christoph Maurer, Hugo

The electronic fabrics team focuses on the de-

Mueller

velopment of fabric circuit boards, fabric heating and fabric sensors. In 2006, Ivo completed his PhD degree in Electrical Engineering in the field of wearable computing at ETH in Zurich. Prior to that, he received his MSc degree in signal processing at UCLA.

Keywords: electronic fabric, conductive fabric, smart textile

PowerMatrix is a hybrid fabric consisting of woven polyester monofilament yarn and copper alloy wires. Each copper wire itself is coated with an electrical insulation varnish to prevent shortcircuiting among the cross-running wires. The copper wire grid in the fabric features a spacing of about 1mm. PowerMatrix has a weight of about 74g/m2 and a high air flow. The fabric integrates regularly spaced black marker filaments. These markers help when placing and interconnecting electrical components within the fabric. Eventually, PowerMatrix can be used as an entirely flexible circuit board.

Ivo Locher, Sefar

191

WarmX Apolda, Germany

Biography: WarmX developed a patented warming-technology, which makes it possible for users to feel well and to move freely at low temperatures. WarmX uses the easy and efficient warming-technology in the development of textile products that generate warmth without wires. Their products are made using flat-knitting technology. WarmX is a family based company that has produced flat-knitted garments since 1896.

WarmX (since 2005) Apolda, Germany with Michele Stinco, Gerald Rosner, Christoph Mueller Keywords: heatable underwear, silver-coated polyamid yarn

WarmX is actively heatable underwear that warms different areas of the body. Silvered threads are integrated into a knitted garment and supplied with power by a small controller. The garment warms up directly on the skin and without heating wires. The seamless tights consist of a silvercoated polyamid yarn and warms the knees and feet. The yarns produce an antimicrobial effect and reduces odor. The tights are supplemented by the new warmX silverSun. This skin tight shirt was developed using bodymapping principles and actively heats the kidney area of the wearer.

192

WarmX

Elisabeth de Senneville Paris, France

Biography: Since 1980, Elisabeth is well known for innovation in new fabrics like holograms, lenticular, neopren, photoluminescent and woven optic fibers. She collaborates with groups like Nissan, Arche, Peugeot, Decathlon Damart, and Salomon. Her objective is to integrate ecology and poetry into cloth and design technology. In the future, she wants to develop new fabrics that help us all to better adapt to urban life. In 2003 she was given an ‘Innovation Award’; she also teaches innovation at ENSAD in Paris.

Velowear (2007) Paris, France Keywords: light-emitting, photoluminescent, biking

The Velowear line was created using a new, recently patented, photoluminescent fabric. You can ‘load’ this fabric with light from a lamp or the sun and it will then provide light for about 12 hours. This is a magical cloth for bike and motorcycle riders.

Elisabeth de Senneville

193

Art Couture (2005 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ongoing) Paris, France Keywords: art, fashion, exhibition

The Art Couture line is generally exhibited in an Art Gallery context and has been presented alongside fine art pieces in Paris and Saint Tropez. The goal is to strengthen the links between art and fashion while creating truly unique experi-

Flexible Screen Clothing (2003)

ences and products for patrons. The project pro-

Paris, France

vides insights into the relationships between art,

with France Telecom

innovation and fashion and how they will interact in the future. Every two months Elisabeth selects a Parisian gallery and an artist to collaborate with. At the gallery clients are fitted and orders are taken to be delivered the following week.

Keywords: display, mobile phone, soft screen

Flexible Screen Clothing is a line of clothing designed for France Telecom. The concept was called Create Wear and involved clothing with an embedded soft screen that uses LEDs to allow users to load images from their mobile phone.

194

Elisabeth de Senneville

Anti-Pollution (2002)

Meteo Blind (2001)

Paris, France

Keywords: anti-pollution

Keywords: microfiber, humidity, weather

Anti-Pollution is a unique technology that acts as

The Meteo Blind is both poetic and technologic

a filter against urban pollution. This new product

in its design. The print is micro-encapsulated and

has many applications in clothing and houseware.

responds to air humidity. It uses an easy to read

In addition, it features bold prints further blending

color code that allows the user to predict the

the worlds of art and technology.

coming dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weather.

Elisabeth de Senneville

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Project Websites

Electronic Fashion Hussein Chalayan www.husseinchalayan.com

Ying Gao www.exercicesdestyle.com http://cavaaller.blogspot.com

Angel Chang www.angelchang.com

CuteCircuit www.cutecircuit.com

Kerri Wallace www.kerriwallace.com

Elena Corchero www.lostvalues.com

Ebru Kurbak & Ricardo Nascimento & Fabiana Shizue www.popkalab.com/th.html

KnoWear www.knowear.net

Interactive Interfaces XS Labs www.xslabs.net www.berzowska.com www.uttermatter.com www.dimainstone.com

Suzi Webster www.suziwebster.org

Barbara Layne, Studio subTela http://subtela.hexagram.ca

Diana Eng www.blogginginmotion.com www.dianaeng.com

Stijn Ossevoort www.linkedin.com/in/sostechnologydesign

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Maggie Orth, International Fashion Machines www.ifm.com

Linda Worbin www.worbin.com/linda

Scientific Couture Donna Franklin www.bioalloy.org/projects/micro-be.html www.symbiotica.uwa.edu.au

Manel Torres, Fabrican www.fabricanltd.com

Tobie Kerridge www.biojewellery.com www.materialbeliefs.com

Sensual Being & Tangible Touch Jenny Tillotson www.smartsecondskin.com www.indie911.com/film/animation/scentsory-design www.transhumanism.org/gallery/jt.htm

James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau www.auger-loizeau.com www.smellplus.co.uk

Adidas www.adidas.com

Textronics www.textronicsinc.com www.numetrex.com

Cati Vaucelle http://web.media.mit.edu/~cati

Hannah Perner-Wilson & Mika Satomi www.massage-me.at

Kai Eichen & Marit Mihklepp & Hanna Tiidus www.arukad.ee/et/projects/dynamical_textiles/springon

Wearable Explorations Despina Papadopoulos, Studio 5050 www.5050ltd.com

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Leah Buchley www.thehighlowtech.com www.arduino.cc www.sparkfun.com

Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair www.realitydisfunction.org http://tratti.attacksyour.net http://randomseed.org

Kate Hartman www.katehartman.com

Younghui Kim www.absurdee.com

Fiona Carswell www.fionacarswell.com

Kouji Hikawa http://lacoyta-e-fashion.blogspot.com

Social Fabric Philips Design www.design.philips.com

Jayne Wallace www.ncl.ac.uk/culturelab/research/jwdoctoral.htm www.jaynewallace.info

Mouna Andraos www.missmoun.com www.electroniccrafts.org www.junksoup.com/address

Ayah Bdeir www.ayahbdeir.com

Teresa Almeida www.banhomaria.net

Cat Mazza www.microrevolt.org http://66.34.35.248

Ebru Kurbak & Mahir M. Yavuz http://casualdata.com/newsknitter

Fabienne Blanc & Patrick R端egg www.be-geistert.ch www.acar2.org

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Sonic Landscape Maurin Donneaud, XYinteraction http://xyinteraction.free.fr

Madgalena Kohler & Hanna Wiesener www.trikoton.com

Burton www.burton.com

Nike www.nike.com

Fibretronic www.fibretronic.com

Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill www.oneill.com

Material Witness Alyce Santoro www.alycesantoro.com www.sonicfabric.com www.designtex.com

Marcelo Coelho www.cmarcelo.com

Zane Berzina www.skinstories.com www.zaneberzina.com

Grado Zero Espace www.gzespace.com

Voltaic www.voltaic.com

Sefar http://powermatrix.sefar.com

WarmX www.warmx.de www.smarttextiles.net

Elisabeth de Seineville www.e2senneville.com

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Materials

Conductive Fabric & Velcro Aracon | conductive thread www.micro-coax.com/pages/technicalinfo/ARACON/aracon_about.asp

Bekaert | conductive fabrics, threads and shielding textiles www.bekaert.com/bft/Products/Innovative%20textiles.htm

Flextex | conductive fabric www.flextex.com/emi|shielding|cond|fabric.html

Hook and Loop | conductive Velcro www.hookandloop.com/site/product.cfm?id=electrically_conductive_velcro_hook_and_loop

Less EMF | conductive fabric, thread, Velcro, paint, ex-static fabric www.lessemf.com

Metalline | conductive fabric http://ajinelectron.co.kr/main/index.php

Noble Biomaterials | anti-static and conductive materials www.noblebiomaterials.com/category.asp?itemid=51

Shieldex Trading | conductive fabric, thread, fabric zipper tape www.shieldextrading.net

Conductive Thread Fine Silver Products | conductive thread, fabric, tape www.fine-silver-productsnet.com

Hedgehog Handworks | metal wrapped conductive threads www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/metal_thread_index.shtml

JDR - Brazilian Elegance | metal wrapped conductive threads www.jdr-be.com/metal-lurex.htm

Lame Lifesaver | conductive thread http://members.shaw.ca/ubik/thread/order.html

Syscom Advanced Materials | conductive polymer/metal hybrid yarn www.amberstrand.com

T&L Barnes | metal wrapped conductive thread www.tlbarnes.com

Textura Trading Company | stainless steel conductive thread www.texturatrading.com

Tinsel Trading Company | vintage metal threads and fabric www.tinseltrading.com

TITV Greiz | Elitex, a silver coated yarn www.titv-greiz.de

Conductive Adhesive Tapes 3M | conductive tapes http://solutions.3m.com

204

The Tape Works | liquid tape www.thetapeworks.com/liquid-tape.htm

Conductive Powders and Paints Acheson Industries | conductive screen printable silver inks and graphitebased pastes www.achesonindustries.com

Amazing Magnets | ferrofluid www.amazingmagnets.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=108

Atlantic Equipment Engineers | metal powders and compounds www.micronmetals.com

Chemtronics | conductive pen www.chemtronics.com

DuPont | carbon and silver conductors www.dupont.com

Elemental Scientific | carbon graphite powder www.elementalscientific.net

SPI Supplies | conductive powders and paints www.2spi.com/catalog/spec_prep/cond_paints.html

Other Conductive Materials Briwax | metal wool www.briwax-online.com/GMT.html

Devcon | metal filled epoxy adhesive www.devcon.com/devconcatsolution.cfm?catid=34

Ercon | sensor materials www.erconinc.com/home.htm

Seal Science | conductive rubber http://sealscience.com/conductive_rubber.aspx

Zoflex | conductive rubber www.rfmicrolink.com/zoflex.html

Anti-Static Products Antistatic Industries | anti-static products https://www.antistaticindustries.com

StaticFaction | distributor of Thunderon anti-static products www.staticfaction.com

X-Static | silver fiber www.x-staticfiber.com

Isolating and Model-Making Materials Environmental Technology | easy cast resins www.eti-usa.com/consum/index.html

FormFX | liquid rubbers, plastics, medical adhesives, alcohol-based body inks www.formfx.eu

205

Panipol | polyaniline products http://panipol.fi

Resin Technical Systems | resin www.resintek.co.uk

Shape Lock | modelling and mould making, quick and easy www.shapelock.com

Smooth-on | rubber, plastics, foam, adhesives www.smooth-on.com

Soltor Plastics | acrylic glass www.solterplastics.com/plastics

Teknor Apex | advanced polymer materials www.teknorapex.com/index.html

Von Roll | electrical insulating materials www.vonroll.com

Specialty Fabrics Difco | protective and high performance fabrics www.difcoperformance.com

Dupont | high-tech textiles www.dupont.com

Foster-Miller | electro textiles www.foster-miller.com

Gorix Ltd. | high-tech textiles www.gorix.com

Industrial Fabrics Association International | not-for-profit trade association representing the specialty fabrics industry www.ifai.com

Luminex | light-emitting fabric www.luminex.it

Material Connexion | innovative materials lexicon www.materialconnexion.com

Offray Speciality Narrow Fabrics | smart textiles, static dissipative products www.osnf.com

Schoeller | high-tech textiles www.schoeller-textiles.com

Scientific Instrument Services | ceramic blankets and cloths www.sisweb.com/catalog/04/A69

Sedo Chemicals | neoprene www.sedochemicals.com

Fusible and Fabric Glue AllStitch LLC | Spray On Fusible Web www.allstitch.net/product/606-spray-on-fusible-web-65-oz-3764.cfm

Fabrics Unlimited | fusible www.fabricsunlimited.net/instfuweb.html

Hancock Fabrics | Dritz FrayCheck Liquid Seam Sealant www.hancockfabrics.com/jump-12/PRODUCT/16282.shtml

206

Products A LA CARTE | Pellon fusibles www.shoppellon.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68

Quilting Warehouse | fusible web, fusible tape http://store.quilting-warehouse.com/batting---interfacing-fusibleweb.html

Red Rock Threads | fusible, invisible and water soluble thread www.redrockthreads.com/misc-thread/fusible-thread.asp

Save-on-crafts | Aleeneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Flexible Stretchable Fabric Glue, great as isolator for conductive fabric www.save-on-crafts.com/fabricglues.html

Sulky | Sulky Sticky Self-Adhesive Tear-Away Stabilizer www.sulky.com/stabilizers/sticky.php

Metal Sewing Accessories Prym | sewing and needlework accessories www.prym-consumer.com

YKK | fastening products www.ykkfastening.com

Sensors Conductive Technologies | electro-chemical sensors, membrane switches, flexible heaters www.conductivetech.com

Eleksen | textile touchpads www.eleksen.com

Flexpoint | bend and flex sensors www.flexpoint.com

Images | many different sensors and actuators www.imagesco.com

Interlink Electronics | force-sensitive resistors and touchpads www.interlinkelectronics.com

International Fashion Machines | wall dimmer www.ifmachines.com

Microstrain | wireless sensors www.microstrain.com

Piezo Systems | piezo elements www.piezo.com

Stella | stretchable electronics www.stella-project.de

Textronics | wearable sensors www.textronicsinc.com

Xsens | motion, orientation and position measurement http://xsens.com

Actuators B&H Color Change Ltd. | thermochromic ink www.thermochromicinks.com

Color Change Corporation | thermochromic and photochromic ink www.colorchange.com

207

CTI Extreme Inks | thermochromic etc ink www.ctiinks.com/default.asp

Dynalloy | Flexinol, shape memory alloy www.dynalloy.com

E-Ink | electronic paper displays www.eink.com

Hallcrest | temperature triggered color changing technology www.hallcrest.com

Matsui | thermochromic pigments, aroma ink, photopia, a UV light sensitive photochromic ink www.matsui-color.com

Melcor | thermoelectric cooling solutions www.melcor.com/ptseries.html

Memory Metalle GmbH | shape memory alloys www.memory-metalle.de

Mymotors & Actuators GmbH | flat motors www.mymotors.de

Precision Microdrives | precision motion control components www.precisionmicrodrives.com

SAES Smart Materials | shape memory alloys www.shape-memory-alloys.com

Tayco | temperature sensors and flexible heaters www.taycoeng.com/products.htm

Veriflex | shape memory www.crg-industries.com/products.htm

Communication and Connections ABACOM | embedded RF and network devices www.abacomdirect.com

Bluetooth | Bluetooth solutions www.bluetooth.com/Bluetooth/Products

Fibretronic | soft electronic components www.fibretronic.com

Lemos International | radio communication http://lemosint.com

Moog | slip rings www.polysci.com

Novonic | textile cable www.novonic.de

SkyeTek | RFID www.skyetek.com

Woven Electronics | woven circuits www.wovenelectronics.com

XBee | wireless communication modules http://newmicros.com

Power Powerfilm | flexible solar panels www.powerfilmsolar.com

208

Solar Home | flexible, portable, modular solar systems www.SolarHome.org

Solar World | think, flexible solar panels www.solar-world.com/PowerFilm.htm

Total Power Solution | batteries www.all-battery.com

Microbattery | micro batteries www.microbattery.com

Displays Best Hong Kong | cheap LEDs http://besthongkong.com

Dupont | electroluminescence www.dupont.com

Fabcell | non-emissive, multi-color fabric module http://idl.sfc.keio.ac.jp/project/fabcell

Fresnel Technologies | plastic optical lenses www.fresneltech.com

Glowire | electroluminescent wire www.glowire.com

LED-Flex | LED tubes www.mulelighting.com/products2.asp?id=2

LEE Filters | lighting and camera filters www.leefilters.com

Lytec | electroluminescent wire www.coolight.com

MARL | LEDs www.leds.co.uk

Oryon Technologies | Elastolite http://oryontech.com

Pacel | EL displays www.pacel.co.uk

Philips | Lumalive www.lumalive.com

Plastic Logic | flexible displays www.plasticlogic.com

Rogers Corporation | electroluminescent lighting systems www.rogerscorporation.com

Super Bright LEDs www.superbrightleds.com

Physical Computing Platforms Arduino http://arduino.cc

Basic Stamp www.parallax.com

D-Tools http://hci.stanford.edu/dtools

Euro Circuits www.eurocircuits.com

209

GoGo Board www.gogoboard.org/cocoon/gogosite/home.xsp?lang=en

Handyboard http://handyboard.com

Lilypads http://thehighlowtech.com

LogoChip www.wellesley.edu/Physics/Rberg/logochip/distribution

MakingThings www.makingthings.com

MidiTron http://miditron.com

Phidgets www.phidgets.com

Wiring www.wiring.org.co

Microcontrollers ATMEL www.atmel.com

Basic micro www.basicmicro.com

Microchip http://microchip.com

Micromint http://micromint.com

Netmedia http://basicx.com

Paralleay www.parallax.com

Electronics and Prototyping All Electronics | online electronics surplus distributor www.allelectronics.com

CSD | online electronics distributor www.csd-electronics.de

Digikey | online electronics distributor www.digikey.com

Electronic Goldmine | online electronics surplus distributor http://goldmine-elec.com

Farnell | online electronics distributor www.farnell.at

Fluke | multimeters www.fluke.com

JAMECO | online electronics distributor www.jameco.com

JAMECO Robot Store | robotic kits, parts & more www.robotstore.com

Mouser Electronics | electronic component distributor http://mouser.com

210

PCB milling | printed circuit board milling www.pcbmilling.com

Radioshack | shop and online electronics distributor www.radioshack.com

RS | online electronics distributor www.rs-components.com/index.html

Small Parts | the hardware store for researchers and developers www.smallparts.com

Solarbotics | mature hobby robotics and electronics company www.solarbotics.com

Sparkfun | online electronics distributor www.sparkfun.com

Software Cycling â&#x20AC;&#x2122;74 | Max/MSP www.cycling74.com

Processing | open source programming language and environment http://processing.org

Pure Data | software by Miller Puckette http://crca.ucsd.edu/~msp/software.html

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Methods & Tools Sewing, Embroidery and Quilting Babylock | sewing, embroidery, quilting and serging machines www.babylock.com

Bernina | embroidery, quilting, home decoration, sewing and handicraft www.bernina.com

Brother | home sewing & embroidery machines www.brother-usa.com

Burda Style | open source sewing www.burdastyle.com

Husqvarna Viking | sewing machines www.husqvarnaviking.com

Janome | sewing machines http://janome.com

MicroRevolt | convert image to embroidery pattern www.microrevolt.org/knitPro

Nolting | quilting machines www.nolting.com

Pfaff | sewing machines www.pfaff.com

Singer | sewing machines www.singerco.com

Knitting and Crochet Discontinued Brand Name Yarns | bargain prices yarn www.discontinuedbrandnameyarn.com

Knitty | little perls of wisdom www.knitty.com

Loop | online yarn shop and more www.loopyarn.com

Shima Seiki | flat knitting machines www.shimaseiki.co.jp

Stoll | flat knitting machines www.stoll.com

Weaving The DesignScope Company | textile software www.designscopecompany.com

Digital Weaving | digital Jacquard loom http://weaving.tronrud.no

Arm | electronic loom http://arm-loom.ch

212

Felting Craftgossip | blog network http://felting.craftgossip.com

The Woolery | how-to www.woolery.com/Pages/felting.html

Fusing HIX Heat Presses | lightweight, portable and hobby heat transfer presses http://hixheatpress.com

Printing Digitaltextile | digital textile printing www.digitaltextile.com/equipment.htm

Mimaki | digital printer & ink www.mimaki.co.jp/english/top/index.php

Roland | digital printer www.rolanddga.com

HP | digital printer www.hp.com

BASF | ink www.basf.com

DYSTAR | ink www.dystar.com

Laser Cutting and Engraving Alltec http://217.243.167.125

EuroLaser www.eurolaser.com

FKM Sintertechnik www.fkm-sintertechnik.de/leistungen_de

GCC www.gccworld.com

GravoGraph www.gravograph.com

Laser Cutting Textiles and Fabric for Fashion Industry www.lasercutfabric.com

LaserPro www.laserprona.com

VersaLaser www.ulsinc.com/versalaser

213

Rapid Prototyping 3D Systems | FDM, MJM, SLA, SGC and SLS www.3dsystems.com

Dimension Printing | FDM and MJM www.dimensionprinting.com

EOS | SLS www.eos.info

Euromold | World fair for mould making and tooling www.euromold.com

Fab Lab MIT | explores how the content of information relates to its physical representation http://fab.cba.mit.edu

Kira Corporation | LOM www.kiracorp.co.jp

Optomec | SLS www.optomec.com

ProMetal | SLS www.exone.com/eng/technology/x1-prometal

Roland | CNC www.rolanddga.com/asd

Solidimension | LOM www.solidimension.com

Solidscape | FDM and MJM www.solid-scape.com

Stratasys | FDM and MJM www.stratasys.com

ZCorp | 3D printing www.zcorp.com

214

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Lurie, Alison: The Language of Clothes. Henry Holt and Company, New York, 2000. Marzano, Stefano & Aarts, Emille: The New Everyday View on Ambient Intelligence. 010 Publishers, Rotterdam, 2003. McLuhan, Marshall: Understanding Media – The Extension of Man. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 1995. McQuaid, Mathilda (Ed): Extreme Textiles. Designing for High Performance. Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2005. Moggridge, Bill: Designing Interactions. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2007. Negroponte, Nicholas: Being Digital. Vintage Books, New York, 1996. Norman, Donald A: The Invisible Computer. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 1997. Norman, Donald A: Emotional Design. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2004. O’Mahony, Marie: Cyborg: The Man-Machine. Thames & Hudson, New York, 2002. Papadakis, Alexandria & Papadakis, Andreas: Innovation – From Experimentation to Realisation. New Architecture Group, London, 2003. Pentellini, Claudia & Stohler, Peter (Eds): Body Extensions. Art, Photography, Film, Comic, Fashion. Arnoldsche, Munich, 2004. (German & French) Philips Design: New Nomads. An Explorations of Wearable Electronics by Philips. 010 Publishers, Amsterdam, 2000. Picard, Rosalind W: Affective Computing. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 1997. Plant, Sadie: Zeros & Ones: Digital Women & The New Technoloculture. Fourth Estate, London, New York, 1997.

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Rheingold, Howard: Tools for Thought: The History and Future of Mind-Expanding Technology. 2nd edn, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2000. Shishoo, Roshan: Textiles in Sports. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK, 2005. Smith, Courtenay & Topham, Sean: Extreme Fashion. Prestel, Munich, 2005. Smith, Marquart & Morra, Joanne: The Prosthetic Impulse, From a Posthuman Present to a Biocultural Future. MIT Press, Cambride, MA, USA, 2005. Steffen, Alex: Worldchanging: A User’s Guide for the 21st Century. Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2006. Sterling, Bruce: Shaping Things. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2005. Troy, Nancy J: Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2003. Turkle, Sherry (Ed): Evocative Objects: Things We Think With. MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2007. Turkle, Sherry: The Second Self: Computers and the Human Spirit. 20th edn, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 2005. Vinken, Barbara: Fashion Zeitgeist – Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System. Berg, Oxford, UK, 2005. Warwick, Alexandra & Cavallaro, Dani: Fashioning the Frame. Boundries, Dress and the Body. Berg, Oxford, UK, 2001. Watkins, Susan M: Clothing: The Portable Environment. Iowa State Press, 1995. Wilcox, Claire: Radical Fashion. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2001. Wilson, Elizabeth: Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. University of California Press, Berkeley, CA, USA, 1985. 222

Worbin, Linda: Dynamic Textile Patterns. Designing with Smart Textiles. Chalmers University of Technology, Gรถteborg University, Gรถteborg, Sweden, 2006.

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Materials, Textiles & Technology

Ballard Bell, Victoria & Rand, Patrick: Materials for Design. Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2006. Black, Sandy: Fashioning Fabrics. Contemporary Textiles in Fashion. Black Dog Publishing, London, 2006. Braddock Clarke, Sarah E & O’Mahony, Marie: Techno Textiles 2. Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design. New York, Thames & Hudson, 2006. Braddock, Sarah E & O’Mahony, Marie: Techno Textiles. Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design. New York, Thames & Hudson, 1998. Braddock, Sarah E. & O’Mahony, Marie: Sportstech. Revolutionary Fabrics, Fashion and Design. New York, Thames & Hudson, 2002. Brownell, Blaine: Transmaterial. A Catalog of Materials that Redefine our Physical Environment. Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2006. Brownell, Blaine: Transmaterial2. A Catalog of Materials that Redefine our Physical Environment. Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2008. Hibert, Ros: Textile Innovation: Traditional, Modern and Smart Textiles. Line, London, 2005. Horowitz, Paul & Hill, Winfield: The Art of Electronics. 2nd edn, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, MA, USA, 1994. Igoe, Tom: Making Things Talk: Practical Methods for Connecting Physical Objects. Make Books, 2007. Kasap, Safa & Capper, Peter (Eds): Electronic and Photonic Materials. Springer, New York, 2006. Matério: Material World 2: Innovative Materials for Architecture and Design. Birkhäuser, Basel, 2007.

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O’Sullivan, Dan & Igoe, Tom: Physical Computing. Sensing and Controlling the Physical World with Computers. Thomson, Course Technology, Boston, 2004. Redström, Johan. & Redström, Maria & Mazé, Ramia (Eds): IT + TEXTILES. Edita Publishing Oy, Helsinki, Finland, 2005. Ritter, Axel: Smart Materials in Architecture, Interior Architecture, and Design. Birkhäuser, Basel, Switzerland, 2007. Scherz, Paul: Practical Electronics for Inventors. Mc-Graw-Hill, New York, 2000. Shishoo, Roshan (Ed): Textiles in sport. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK, 2005. Stroud, Marion Boulton: New Material as New Media: The Fabric Workshop and Museum. MIT Press, Cambride, MA, USA, 2002. Tao, Jianhua et al: Affective Computing and Intelligent Interaction. First International Conference, ACII 2005. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg, 2005. Tao, Xiaoming (Ed): Wearable Electronics and Photonics. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK, 2005. Tao, Xiaoming (Ed): Smart fibers, fabrics, and clothing. Woodhead Publishing. Cambridge, UK, 2001. Wolf, Wayne: Computers as Components. Principles of Embedded Computing System Design. Morgen Kaumann Publishers, San Francisco, 2001.

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Blogs & Websites

boingboing | A Directory Of Wonderful Things www.boingboing.net

Cool Hunting | Intersection of art, design, culture and technology www.coolhunting.com

Cordless Threads by Fiona Carswell www.cordlessthreads.com

CORE77 | Industrial Design Supersite www.core77.com

Craft | Dedicated to the renaissance of craft www.craftzine.com

Design Boom | Industrial design today www.designboom.com

Doors of Perception | Starting new conversations on design and innovation www.doorsofperception.com

Electroniccrafts | Small resource for hand made electronics www.electroniccrafts.org

engadget | Everything new in gadgets and consumer electronics www.engadget.com

Etsy | Your place to buy & sell all things handmade www.etsy.com

Fashionable Technology | The Intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology www.fashionabletechnology.org

Horizon Zero | Issue 16: Wear: Issue dedicated to wearable technologies www.horizonzero.ca

i heart switch by Alison Lewis www.iheartswitch.com

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INDEX | Design to improve life www.indexaward.dk

info gargoyle | A community for hi-tech information gatherers http://igargoyle.com

information aesthetics | Form follows data - data visualization & visual communication http://infosthetics.com

instructables | The World’s Biggest Show and Tell www.instructables.com

Make | Technology on your time www.makezine.com

NewScientistTech | Ultimate science and technology website www.newscientisttech.com

Next Nature | Culturally emerged nature www.nextnature.net

OPEN Loop.ph by Rachel Wingfield http://open.loop.ph/bin/view/Openloop/WebHome

Physical Computing by Tom Igoe http://tigoe.net/pcomp/index.shtml

Pop Wuping | Culture of mobility www.popwuping.com

PSFK | Trends and Inspirations, Fashion www.psfk.com/category/fashion

RHIZOME | Emerging artistic practices that engage technology http://rhizome.org

SENSORY IMPACT | The culture of objects www.sensoryimpact.com

SHINY SHINY | A girl’s guide to gadgets www.shinyshiny.tv

Showstudio by Nick Knight www.showstudio.com

Sparkfun | Sharing ingenuity www.sparkfun.com

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Stylefuture | Cutting-edge fashion www.stylefuture.com

talk2myShirt | Everything you want to know about Wearable Electronics www.talk2myshirt.com/blog

Tech D.I.Y. | Mothers and kids make and learn together http://techdiy.blogspot.com

Technology Review | Published by MIT www.technologyreview.com

textually.org | All about texting, SMS and MMS www.textually.org

The Raw Feed | Where technology and culture collide www.therawfeed.com

Think Geek | Stuff for smart masses www.thinkgeek.com

twenty1f | Fashion for the 21st century - where fashion meets technology www.twenty1f.com

Wearables Central | Wearable Computing Links and News Archive http://wearables.blu.org

We-make-money-not-art | Intersection between art, design and technology www.we-make-money-not-art.com

WIRED | Daily technology news website www.wired.com

230

Institutes

Acar2, Basel, Switzerland www.acar2.org

ANAT, Reskin, Adelaide, Australia www.anat.org.au/reskin

Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA, USA www.cmu.edu

Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg, Sweden www.chalmers.se/en

Central Saint Martin, Innovation, London, UK www.csm.arts.ac.uk/csm_new_knowledge.htm

Concordia University, Montreal, Canada www.concordia.ca/clusters/textiles

Distance Lab, Scotland, UK www.distancelab.org

ENSCI Les Ateliers, Paris, France www.ensci.com

ETH Wearable Computing Lab, Zurich, Switzerland www.wearable.ethz.ch

Eyebeam, New York, NY, USA www.eyebeam.org

Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft, Munich, Germany www.fraunhofer.de

Georgia Tech, Atlanta, GA, USA www.gatech.edu

Goldsmiths, University of London, London, UK www.goldsmiths.ac.uk

Hexagram Institute, Montreal, Canada www.hexagram.org

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Hyperwerk, Basel, Switzerland http://hyperwerk.ch

IBM Wearable Lab, various locations around the world www.research.ibm.com

Interactive Institute, Kista, Sweden www.tii.se

Interactive Telecommunications Program, New York University, New York, NY, USA www.itp.nyu.edu

London College of Fashion, London, UK www.fashion.arts.ac.uk

Mediamatic, Amsterdam, Netherlands www.mediamatic.net

MIT Media Lab, Cambridge, MA, USA http://media.mit.edu

Napier University, Engineering, Computing & Creative Industries, Edinburgh, UK www.napier.ac.uk/fecci/Pages/default.aspx

National University of Singapore, Singapore www.nus.edu.sg

Newcastle University, Culture Lab, Newcastle, UK www.ncl.ac.uk/culturelab/research/jwdoctoral.htm

Parsons The New School for Design, Communication, Design, Technology, New York, NY, USA http://cdt.parsons.edu

Royal College of Art, Design Interactions, London, UK www.interaction.rca.ac.uk

Stanford University, Paolo Alto, CA, USA www.stanford.edu

Symbiotica, Perth, Australia www.symbiotica.uwa.edu.au

TITV, Textile Research Institute, Thuringia-Vogtland, Germany www.titv-greiz.de

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University College of Bor책s, Textile Department, Bor책s, Sweden www.hb.se/ths/english

University of Colorado, Computer Science, Boulder, CO, USA www.cs.colorado.edu

University of Arts and Industrial Design, Interface Culture, Linz, Austria www.interface.ufg.ac.at

University of Bremen, Bremen, Germany www.uni-bremen.de

University of Toronto, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Toronto, Canada www.ece.utoronto.ca

University of Wales, School of Art, Media and Design, Newport, UK http://artschool.newport.ac.uk/welcome.html

University of Western Australia, Perth, Australia www.uwa.edu.au

Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA, USA www.ccm.ece.vt.edu/etextiles

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Events

Ambience08, Smart Textiles, University College of BorĂĽs, Sweden www.smarttextiles.se/Ambience08

Ars Electronica, Linz, Austria www.aec.at

Avantex, Frankfurt am Main, Germany http://avantex.messefrankfurt.com

CHI, alternating locations www.CHI2008.org

Dorkbot, various locations worldwide http://dorkbot.org

E-Culturefair, Amsterdam, The Netherlands www.e-culturefair.nl

electronic-text textiles, Riga, Latvia www.e-text-textiles.lv

Enter3, Prague, Czech Republic http://enter3.org/index.php?lang=en&node=117

Extreme Textiles, New York, NY, USA www.cooperhewitt.org/exhibitions/extreme_textiles/index.asp

Fleshing Out, Virtuell Platform, Amsterdam, The Netherlands www.virtueelplatform.nl/article-3554-en.html

Futurotextiles, Lille, France http://iis5.domicile.fr/lille2004/lille3000/sitev2_english/expositions.asp

Futurefashion, Pisa, Italy www.cutecircuit.com/futurefashion

IFA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; consumer electronics unlimited, Berlin, Germany www1.messe-berlin.de/vip8_1/website/MesseBerlin/htdocs/www.ifa-berlin/en/About_IFA/ index.html

International Symposium on Wearable Computers (ISWC), alternating locations www.iswc.net

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ISPO, Innovations, Munich, Germany www.ispo-winter.com/en/Home/cn/vi/viin/innovations

Maker Faire, alternating locations http://makerfaire.com

MobileHCI, alternating locations www.MobileHCI2008.org

MUM, Mobile and Ubiquitous Multimedia, Oulu, Finland www.mum2007.oulu.fi

Our Cyborg Future?, Newcastle, UK www.dott07.com/go/cyborg

Pervasive, alternating locations www.pervasive2008.org

Radical Lace and Subversive Knitting, Museum of Arts & Design, New York, NY, USA www.madmuseum.org/site/c.drKLI1PIIqE/b.1506945/k.3AD7/Radical_Lace__Subversive_ Knitting.htm

Reskin, WearNow Symposium, Canberra, Australia www.anat.org.au/reskin

Sk-interfaces, Liverpool, UK http://humanfutures.fact.co.uk

Seamless, Boston Museum of Science, Boston, MA, USA http://seamless.sigtronica.org

Senseware, Tokyo Fiber 07, Tokyo, Japan http://tokyofiber-jc.jp

Siggraph, alternating locations www.siggraph.org

Smart and Intelligent Textiles, Nanotextiles, alternating locations www.intertechpira.com

Social Fabrics, Dallas, TX, USA www.socialfabrics.org

Textile Institute World Conference, alternating locations www.texi.org

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The Space Between, Perth, Australia www.thespacebetween.org.au/exhibition.html

THREADS, Wearable Art Fashion Show, Jersey City, NJ, USA www.jerseycitymuseum.org/calendar.cfm?calid=51

Ubicomp, alternating locations http://ubicomp.org/ubicomp2008

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Photo Credits

Numbers refer to pages on which illustrations appear (a=above, b=below, c=center, l=left, r=right)

Electronic Fashion 28 – 31: Chris Moore, 32 – 33: Michel Laforest, 34l: Anne-Marie DurandLaflamme, 34r: Michel Laforest, 35: Dan Lecca, 36l: Dan Lecca, 36r: Lee Clower, 37: Lee Clower, 38 – 42: CuteCircuit, 43 – 44: Kerri Wallace, 45 – 46: Elena Corchero, 47: Stefan Agamanolis, 48 – 49: Ricardo Nascimento, 50 – 53: Peter Allen

Interactive Interfaces 56 –61: XS Labs, 62 – 63: Jordan Benwick & Suzi Webster, 64: Hesam Khoshneviss, 65al: Barbara Layne, 65ar: Hesam Khoshneviss, 65bl: Hesam Khoshneviss, 66: Sam Doroff, 67a: Doug Eng, 67b: Diana Eng, 68l: Evan Scheele, 68r: James Patten, 69: Ignasi Gamez, 70: Alphonse Telemonde, 71l: Ivan Gasparini, 71r: Deepak Pakhare, 72 - 74: David Clugston, 75a: IFM Design Studio, 75b: Maggie Orth, 76: Maggie Orth, 77: Anna Persson & Linda Worbin, 78 – 79: Linda Worbin

Scientific Couture 80 - 81: Oron Catts & Ionat Zurr, 82 - 83: Gary Cass, 84: Tobey Black & Sharon Clusters, 85: Robert Firth, 86 - 87: Gene Kiegel, 88l: Adam Parker, 88r: Fabrican Ltd, 89 – 91: Michael Venning & Nikki Stott & Tobie Kerridge

Sensual Being and Tangible Touch 94: Tomek Sierek, 95l: Don Baxendale, 95r: Guy Hills, 96l: Guy Hills, 96r: CTIA Wireless Convention, 97: Poppy Berry, 98l: Poppy Berry, 98r: James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau 99: James Auger & Jimmy Loizeau, 100 – 101: Adidas, 102 – 103: Textronics, 104a: Yasmin Abbas, 104b: Cati Vaucelle, 105l: Cati Vaucelle, 105r: Leonardo Bonanni, 106: Cati Vaucelle, 107: Mika Satomi & Friedrich Kirschner, 108 – 109: Kai Eichen & Marit Mihklepp & Hanna Tiidus

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Wearable Explorations 136: Alex Reeder, Rory Nugent, Kyveli Vezani, 113 – 115: Nick James, 115l: Nick James, 115r: Ion Constas, 116l: Despina Papadopoulos, 116r: Ion Constas, 117l: Despina Papdopoulos & Ion Constas, 117r: Marcelo Krasilcic, 118 - 121: Leah Buchley, 122 – 123: Anu Akkanen, 124l: Laura Beloff, 124r: Anu Akkanen, 125l: Laura Beloff, 125r: Laura Beloff & Erich Berger & Martin Pichlmair, 126: Sai Sriskandarajah, 127l: Sai Sriskandarajah, 127ar: Kate Hartman, 127br: Mike Dory, 128a: Sai Sriskandarajah, 128lb: Kate Hartman, 128rb: Kate Hartman, 129: Younghui Kim, 130: Kate Kunath & Younghui Kim & Marc Vose, 131 133: Fiona Carswell, 134 – 137: Kouji Hikawa

Social Fabric 140 – 143: Philips Design, 144 – 147: Jayne Wallace, 148: J. Nordberg, 149: Mouna Andraos, 150: Daniel Korhov, 151a: Kate Kunath, 151b: Sergio Araya, 152: Teresa Almeida, 153l: Pietro Romani, 153r: Maria Mayer, 154: microRevolt, 155a: microRevolt, 155b: Carrie Dashow. 156: Ebru Kurbak & Mahir M. Yavuz, 157: Fabienne Blanc & Patrick Rüegg

Sonic Landscape 160 - 161: Maurin Donneaud, 162: Magdalena Kohler & Hanna Wiesener, 163– 165: Burton, 166 – 167: Nike, 168 –169: Fibretronic, 170l: Fibretronic, 170r: Levis Strauss & Co, 171 –173: O’Neill

Material Witness 176 – 179: Alyce Santoro, 178 – 180: Marcelo Coelho, 181 – 182: Jackson Tan, 183l: Raimo Lielbriedis, 183r: Zane Berzina, 184: Zane Berzina, 185 – 188: Grado Zero Espace, 189 – 190: Voltaic, 191: Ivo Locher, 192: WarmX, 193 – 195: Elisabeth de Seineville

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Acknowledgements

Thanks to

Andrew Chetty

Katherine Moriwaki

Angela Fössl

Olga Okunev

Sonja Hammerschmid

Sabine Pümpel

Manfred Lechner

Melinda Rackham

Suzanne Lee

Josh Rubin

Alison Lewis

Alexander Sadezky

Colleen Macklin

Christa Sommerer

Amanda McDonald Crowley

Sven Travis

All contributors for their submissions and valuable comments. And all those who made this book possible in particular:

Kunstuniversität Linz, Interface Culture

Parsons The New School For Design, Communication, Design & Technology

ImpulsProgramm creativwirtschaft by austria wirtschaftsservice is the first nationwide initiative to promote the creative industries of Austria. Its aim is to recognize creative industries as an important economic asset. Through tailored funding, economic education and public awareness campaigns SMEs, in the creative sector, are assured of getting the support that they deserve.

247

Biography

Sabine Seymour is an innovator and trend spotter who is focused on next generation â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wearablesâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; and the intersection between aesthetics and function. She is the CEO and Chief Creative Officer of Moondial, which develops fashionable wearables and consults on fashionable technology to companies worldwide. She is a faculty member at Parsons The New School For Design in New York and the University of Arts and Industrial Design in Linz, Austria. Sabine curates, exhibits and lectures internationally and has been published worldwide.

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