Getting to Know & Saying Goodbye to Ifrane, Morocco

Reflections from Romi Zebian on his time on an Exchange Program in Morocco

June 16, 2023

Romi Zebian's Photo in Ifrane, Morocco
Streets of Morocco

As of this point in my life, this abroad experience has led me to the greatest four months of my life. Obviously I hope things only get better but I need to place emphasis on how fortunate I feel to be in Morocco, here in the city of Ifrane. To sum everything up in one word I would say I feel welcomed.

When I first got to my school, Al Akhawayn University, I was worried there would be nothing to do. My campus is isolated, the nearest city Fes an hour away by car, but thankfully the town we're in has everything you could need so there's no need to go out unless you want to explore. And the exploring, besides the people, has been the best part of my time here. The transport system is really easy to figure out and you get a hold of it quick, and it's safe and cheap. And if you want to go international, the nearest airport in Fes is less than an hour away and is a hub for Ryanair flights in Morocco. On my trip I've explored most of the country with a great group of friends I've come to see as my family.

Streets of Morocco

We've started making goodbyes to some of each other and it's been difficult. Being an international student I did initially gravitate to other internationals but I'm glad to be able to say my friend circle is now much more balanced. Perspective is what I wanted when I came to Morocco, and perspective is what I got. The things we discuss here are things we would never even consider discussing in the US because we wouldn't even think of the topics. Everything is different here and nothing ever goes to plan and that's exactly how I wanted it to be. I wanted to be concerned with only the present and not the future, and in Morocco you are always in the present, so it's been perfect for me.

Our most recent trip was to the south in Tafilalt where we visited the site of the ancient city Sijilmassa, a few zawiyas, and spoke to some small subsistence farmers in the region. That feeling of being welcomed in Morocco resonated with me nowhere greater than it did here, where we met up with several families and communities who lived in these centuries-old mud brick houses, living off their farms and family remittances from elsewhere in the country. I've never been treated so well by a stranger in my life. These are complete strangers having tea with you, serving you their homemade food from their farm during their decades long drought, and spending hours of their valuable time sitting and talking with you. No holds are barred when it comes to being a good host. It's no wonder I feel so comfortable here, feeling like I fit in knowing full well I'm not from anywhere near here.

Al Akhawayn's Campus

On campus life is lovely, too. It's very straight forward. After class, you get coffee with your friends and sit and chat for hours, or you do work with one another. Or, if you have time, you go on a trip and explore the country. Or keep it simple and go downtown and grab dinner.

One thing I've noticed is that the experience here is extremely what-you-make-of-it. I decided at the beginning to spend as little time as possible in my dorm room and keep myself surrounded with my friends, and me being an extrovert this worked out perfectly for me. Some of the other exchanges opted for a more balanced approach, and some others decided to be more isolated. I've met some amazing people though. Students, teachers, faculty, the employees at the dining and residence halls, the taxi drivers, the hotel managers, in every city I stepped foot in we made friends like it was nothing.

Moroccan Meal

The whole "meeting-people" experience was exact opposite to what it is in the US, where usually you only exchange hellos with people out of formality. There was no initial wall to bring down with people before they allowed you their time, it was offered from the beginning. This sense of unconditional appreciation is one I will dearly miss. All you have to do is show effort and graciousness, maybe a word or two in Darija and you're fine.

The food here reflects the same sense of community, everything's always shared and meals are always together, even the one water cup you split among 8 or more people. The flatbreads, tagines, the little olive plates you get with harissa, the mezzes of eggplant or goat cheese are all things I'm going to dearly miss. And the couscous for sure.

And when it comes to my identity, I find myself to be extremely blessed to be able to say I'm Lebanese-American and Muslim. I have no doubt that's part of the reason why I adjusted so well being here, as most others at the very least here share my religion.

Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane has given me a truly unforgettable experience of which the memories I will cherish for the rest of my life. Morocco has treated me unreasonably well.

Romi Zebian
GW Exchange - Al Akhawayn University  
Spring 2023
Elliott School of International Affairs
International Affairs, Middle East & Conflict Resolution Concentrations