Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip
During our Norwegian Coastal Road-trip of 2021, I decided on a whim that we should stop in Mosjøen on the long drive between Mo i Rana and Trondheim. I’d heard of the town before and that it was quite beautiful. However, I was totally blown away by how charming and picturesque the town was.
In this guide, I’ve highlighted the best bits of Mosjøen. The town is perfect for an overnight stop on a road-trip, and there’s plenty in town to keep you busy.
I think Mosjøen is one of Norway’s best-kept secrets, and after visiting I think you’ll also understand why!
In this article...
History of Mosjøen
Mosjøen is actually the oldest town in the traditional region of Helgeland, so the city is worth visiting if you are interested in historic places.
The first mention of Mosjøen was in the 15th century, when it was mentioned in a land register. The area around Mosjøen was owned by the archdiocese of Nidaros in Trondheim until the Reformation. After the Reformation in 1537, all church property was transferred to the King. Mosjøen was owned by the Danish King until 1666, when King Frederik II transferred all public property to a man called Joachim Irgens, who was a Danish official and chamberlain to King Frederik III. This was the largest real estate transaction and privatisation in the Nordics ever. After Irgens died, the estate was broken up into several smaller ones.
In the 18th century, Mosjøen had several merchants living here. They travelled to Bergen to sell their goods until 1794, when the merchant Erik Jorgen Sjursson was given the right to open a trading business and a guesthouse.
Trade Growth & Market Rights
In the 19th century, Mosjøen grew to become a small urban community that centered around trade. Those who did not have land to cultivate became artisans or day labourers, and Mosjøen became known for its many shoemakers, blacksmiths, and other craftsmen. Many took part in the Lofoten fishing season and Mosjøen was a meeting place between the Swedes, fishermen, farmers, and Sami.
The First Industrial Wave
Mosjøen’s development took an abrupt turn in 1856, when English immigrants founded the English Mill (Engelskbruket). The possibility of building sawmills led to many people settling in Mosjøen to try and make it big in the timber industry.
The town was transformed into a modern trade and official town. The urban business life developed in the form of book shops, fashion shops, and eateries. By the end of the 19th century, Mosjøen had magazine publishers, pharmacists, photographers, hat makers and tons of eateries.
The timber industry was not all positive. The forests surrounding Mosjøen were clearly marked by logging and the destruction of the environment. Because of the extensive logging, several farmers were forced to give up their farms and move.
The timber industry slowed down in Mosjøen around the year 1899.
World War II
Mosjøen was captured by the Nazis on the 11th of May 1940. The Nazis used Mosjøen to transport people and goods for warfare to the far north. Several facilities including a Nazi headquarters and military camp were established in the town. During the evacuation of Finnmark in 1944, many evacuees came to Mosjøen.
Thankfully, Mosjøen is one of the few towns in Northern Norway that was not extensively bombed.
Second Industrial Period
After the war, a new kind of industry came to Mosjøen. An aluminium plant opened in 1958 and is by far the largest industrial establishment in the city.
As you drive into Mosjøen, you may wonder why I recommend it as a place to visit. The outskirts of the town have a very rough, industrial feel. But trust me and head into the city!
Mosjøen Today
Today the population of Mosjøen is around 9,812. Along with Narvik and Mo i Rana, Mosjøen is one of the industrial towns of the county Nordland. Mosjøen Aluminiumsverk is amongst the largest aluminium companies in Europe.
Mosjøen is located in the middle of Sandnessjoen, Mo i Rana and Bronnoysund. It is about halfway between Trondheim and Bodo and is located on the Nordlandsbanen train.
Sjøgata is one of the most charming streets in Northern Norway
Sjøgata is the main street of historic Mosjøen. After the establishment of the English sawmill in 1866, Mosjøen turned into a meeting place for the English timber barons, forestry workers, Sami lumberjacks and Swedish mountain farmers who came down to barter, and tailors selling the latest styles from London or Paris.
Post-war decline
After World War II, Sjøgata was a street not many went to. It was left run-down and in decline, and many saw it as a disgrace to the town. Living on Sjøgata became synonymous with poverty. The eagerness to tear down Sjøgata was so strong that a slogan “tear everything down” became common in the 1970s. You can’t blame them, though. The post-war years created a huge boom in the population and a need for parking spaces in the city, and Sjøgata was prime real estate.
Restoration
Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.
The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.
Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.
Wandering Down Sjøgata
Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.
The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.
Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.
Sjøgata
As you wander down Sjøgata, you’ll be spoiled for choice for the best photograph. Many of these houses are still private residences, so do be respectful of that. However, do take the time to visit some of the local boutiques.
If you are interested in the history of the buildings, each building has a small sign in Norwegian explaining the history. At the tourist office you can pick up a booklet called The History of a Town that will provide you with an English translation.
Mosjøen is Home to Northern Norway's Oldest Hotel
Located at one end of Sjøgata, Fru Haugan Hotel is the oldest hotel in Northern Norway. The hotel opened in 1794, and ever since 1885 the same family has owned the business. It has been run by women for several generations.
The hotel has a lovely garden and a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Ellen.
Stay in one of the restored houses
Some of the houses on Mosjøen have been converted into guesthouses. You can rent them on the following website: https://kulturverkstedet.ipage.no/overnatting/
Visit the Museums
In Mosjøen is the Helgeland Museum. Helgeland is the name of the traditional district along the coast; Norway’s Coastal Road is often called the Helgeland Coastal Road because it mostly covers this traditional district. At the museum you’ll learn about the history of the town but also check out the temporary exhibitions, concerts and other events.
Another the museum is the Vefsn Museum. Vefsn is the name of the municipality that we are in. The museum has local art installations and some hsitory about the area. Close to the museum is the rural building collection, made up of 12 farmhouses, shops and other wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Your ticket to the Vefsn Museum includes this outdoor building collection.
A regional centre for culture
The building that houses the Kulturverkstedet was built in 1862 by the merchant Jacob C. Jacobsen. The building was the largest and grandest mercantile building in Mosjøen. The building opened in 1984 as a culture house. It has a venue for meetings and conferences, but it also has a café and gallery.
The Christmas Town of Norway
The locals in Mosjøen regard themselves as the ‘Christmas town’ of Norway, and around Christmas they host the world’s longest porridge table. The town also hosts plenty of events and stalls around Christmas. They have their own Facebook page, which you can view here: https://www.facebook.com/julebyenmosjoen/
Try the Famous Coffee!
Matkollektivet Vikgården is a famous café in Mosjøen because it still brews coffee in the old-fashioned way. The coffee is so tasty (and strong!) The café is housed in a restored grocery store from the 1880s and also has some excellent cinnamon buns.
Head out for some local food
Gilles Café is a popular café amongst locals. Otherwise, you can try Blomsterbua for some amazing Italian-style pizzas. But Emma, is Italian really local? Well, probably not. But this is the most popular place for the locals to do. Do as the locals do and get a pizza!
Inside Fru Haugens Hotel you’ll find a more traditional Norwegian menu at the Restaurant Ellen. Menu items include beef, duck and clipfish.
Explore the great outdoors!
Mosjøen is perfectly situated if you want to take part in some outdoor activities. Close to the town is the Helgelandstrappa or the Helgeland Stairs, a challenging 3,000 steps laid down by sherpas up the mountain Øyfjellet, which is 800m (2600ft) above the town. It’s worth it for the views!
Practical Information
Mosjøen is located just off the European Highway 6, the main highway running through Norway. There is a huge carpark outside Sjøsiden Senter, a shopping mall.