Jordaan: The Joyous Soul of Amsterdam
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PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 24MM • Ƒ/8 • 3sec • ISO 100
Navigating the maze of waterways and battling the chaotic bike traffic can make any visitor to Amsterdam disoriented. The canals and 17th-century architecture for which the city is known begin to blur together, making the various neighbourhoods seem indistinguishable. But do not let this fool you, once you know where (and how) to look, you will begin to see the unique details that make each neighbourhood just that, a neighbourhood.
There is perhaps no neighbourhood in Amsterdam that captures this feeling than the famous Jordaan.
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 70MM • Ƒ/2.8 • 1/1100 • ISO 800
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • Fujifilm x100s 23MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/180 • ISO 200
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • Fujifilm x100s 23MM • Ƒ/2.8 • 1/18 • ISO 1600
Historically, Jordaan was a working-class neighbourhood, catering to the cities workers, and it has the record to prove it. Worker strikes and riots were commonplace during the late 1800s and into the early 1900s. Many small, unassuming cafes line the main drags of the district and the market every Saturday and Monday reflect the jovial proletariat history. But like so many working-class neighbourhoods of the last century, this century has become the haunt for the creative class. Many of the classic restaurants and bars of the past century still exist, but they are fewer, with trendy restaurants and high-end boutiques replacing them. However, Jordaan’s resilience has been impressive. Where other cities the old charms are stamped out for newer, higher-priced tastes, the feel of the neighbourhood remains welcoming to those seeking art galleries and cafes as well as those wanting a traditional stamppot and a pint of Heineken.
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/160 • ISO 800
In most of the neighbourhoods of Amsterdam, churches are a key figure in the scenery (but dormant in daily life). The streets of Jordaan are stalked by one of Amsterdam’s most famous churches, Westerkerk. Although the church does not physically stand in Jordaan (it lies on the opposite side of the canal), its presence is a vital part of the area and its skyline. To capture its glory, keep your eyes open and looking up, seeing the spire appear towering above the street is always a beautiful sight.
WESTERKERK
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 45MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/1250 • ISO 100
If you want to visit a church physically located in Jordaan, two beautiful examples jump to mind. Noorderkerk, the 16th-century church located at the north end of Jordaan is an active Protestant church; however, its main draw is not religious services, but the bi-weekly Noordermarkt held in the square in front of the church. An added bonus is that while visiting the Noorderkerk or Noordermarkt, you will be just a short walk from two of the best sources of apple pie in Amsterdam. To finish your tour of notable churches, head down the Prinsengracht to a converted 19th-century Catholic church, located on the famous shopping street of Rozengracht. This church is a fantastic example both of a beautiful end of the 19th-century church, but also a reflection of the multiculturalism of the Netherlands, as it is now a mosque. After years of abandonment and disrepair, the Faith Mosque purchased the building and have restored it to glory.
FAITH MOSQUE
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 24MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/320 • ISO 400
Noorderkerk
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 66MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/160 • ISO 800
When in the Netherlands, one of the essential dishes to order is a traditional apple pie. Where to get the best apple pie is a source of heated debate, and once you have tried, you will understand why there is so much passion on the issue. Jordaan holds the honour of having the two most visited locations for apple pie in Amsterdam. The first place for visitors clearly goes to the famous Winkel 43. Visit on a sunny Saturday afternoon in the summer, and the line will stretch around the block, with people jostling to grab one of the picnic tables outside to enjoy some of the sun while they can. The pie is delicious…but if you want the best (in this author’s opinion) you need to walk five minutes away to the corner of Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht. Het Papeneiland, is located at the intersections of two canals and might be the most picturesque bar in the city. The building dates back to 1642, and since then a bar has sat at this location. Walking into the restaurant feels like nothing has changed in nearly 400 years. Visiting for the decor and cosiness is justified enough, but the reason I keep going back is that pie. I would go on to explain the butteriness of the crust filled with the sweetest apples. How the raisins (standard in dutch apple pies) accent everything nicely while the whipped cream is the final touch that makes it perfect… but my words do not do it justice. Just go, you will not regret the choice.
Het Papeneiland
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/4 • 1/125 • ISO 400
Het Papeneiland
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/5 • 1/100 • ISO 400
Despite the changes in Jordaan, this changing neighbourhood has never lost its joyous spirit. In summer months it is not uncommon to see crowds outside the bars singing and cheering. Music flows through the streets regularly, and the community has remained for decades a home for musicians. The streets are always filled with joy, but when any of the many parties, festivals or holidays in Amsterdam take place, Jordaan still draws one of the biggest crowd (and hands down the most fun one). During the yearly Pride Parade, Jordaan is at the end of the canal parade, and it is where the parties go on long after the last float has passed. And during King’s Day, the Dutch holidays that yearly celebration of the birthday of the king, the crowds of orange-clad partiers decent upon Jordaan with an energy that will make anyone become a royalist.
KING’S DAY
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • Fujifilm x100s 23MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/640 • ISO 400
Pride Parade
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/500 • ISO 400
Truly, Jordaan is the neighbourhood in Amsterdam with heart and energy to spare. It is where people go to celebrate both in big public ways and smaller private ways. It is filled with delicious cafes and restaurants, boutique shops for the trending and conservative, and spaces that are inclusive and welcoming to everyone who visits. Amsterdam is a beautiful city, but it can get gloomy from time to time. The wind, rain and cold weather can dampen your spirits, but when this occurs, you only need to hop on a bike and peddle down to Jordaan. Whether a night of drinks and song or a day of food and exploration, this neighbourhood has remained the best of Amsterdam through generations and that will not change anytime soon.
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/7.1 • 1/160 • ISO 400
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/125 • ISO 400
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.8G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/2.8 • 1/200 • ISO 800
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 26MM • Ƒ8 • 6sec • ISO 100
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Author: William Lounsbury
William is a photographer in Amsterdam and Paris with Aperture Tours: professional photography guided tours, designed to help you get the best out of your camera whilst exploring wonderful cities with a local. A professional photographer specialising in photojournalism, William enjoys to get off the beaten track and shoot spontaneous moments as they are presented to him.
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