Making Artisan Pasta: How to Make a World of Handmade Noodles, Stuffed Pasta, Dumplings, and More

Making Artisan Pasta: How to Make a World of Handmade Noodles, Stuffed Pasta, Dumplings, and More

Making Artisan Pasta: How to Make a World of Handmade Noodles, Stuffed Pasta, Dumplings, and More

Making Artisan Pasta: How to Make a World of Handmade Noodles, Stuffed Pasta, Dumplings, and More

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Overview

The James Beard Award–winning author teaches simple, classic techniques for making fresh, homemade pasta in this beautifully illustrated cookbook.

With hundreds of gorgeous photos from acclaimed food photographer Steve Legato, Making Artisan Pasta introduces readers to the surprisingly simple, deeply rewarding art of pasta making. Aliza Green guides readers through every step of the process, from selecting ingredients and mastering different types of doughs to making a range of classic and creative shapes and flavors.

Green combines easy-to-follow instructions with helpful tips from her many years of experience. She also includes bits of history on pasta traditions in Italy and around the world, making this comprehensive guide the only pasta-making book you’ll need.

Named one of the Top 100 Cookbooks of the Last 25 Years for Best Technique and Equipment by Cooking Light

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781610581950
Publisher: Quarto Publishing Group USA
Publication date: 08/17/2023
Sold by: Barnes & Noble
Format: eBook
Pages: 176
Sales rank: 8,472
File size: 50 MB
Note: This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Aliza Green is an award-winning Philadelphia-based author, journalist, and influential chef whose books include The Butcher’s Apprentice, Making Artisan Pasta (Quarry Books, 2012),The Fishmonger’s Apprentice (Quarry Books, 2010), Starting with Ingredients: Baking (Running Press, 2008), Starting with Ingredients (Running Press, 2006), four perennially popular Field Guides to food (Quirk, 2004–2007), Beans: More than 200 Delicious, Wholesome Recipes from Around the World (Running Press, 2004), and successful collaborations with renowned chefs Guillermo Pernot and Georges Perrier. A former food columnist for the Philadelphia Inquirer, Philadelphia Daily News, and Cooking Light magazine, Green is known for her encyclopedic knowledge of every possible ingredient, its history, culture, and use in the kitchen and bakery and for her lively storytelling. Green also leads culinary tours. Green’s books have garnered high praise from critics, readers, and culinary professionals alike, including a James Beard award for “Best Single-Subject Cookbook” in 2001 for Ceviche!: Seafood, Salads, and Cocktails with a Latino Twist (Running Press, 2001), which she co-authored with Chef Guillermo Pernot. For more information about Aliza’s books and tours or to send her a message, visit her website at alizagreen.com.Steve Legato is a photographer specializing in food, restaurant industry, cookbooks and advertising. His work has been featured in Art Culinaire, The New York Times, Food and Wine, Wine Spectator, Food Arts, GQ, Departures, Wine & Spirits, Travel & Leisure, Philadelphia Magazine, Delaware Today, New Jersey Monthly, and Main Line Today. He resides just outside of Philadelphia, PA. His website is stevelegato.com.Cesare Casella is an Italian chef, restaurateur, writer, consultant, and educator. He is Dean of Italian Studies at the International Culinary Center in New York City, which is also home to The French Culinary Institute. He is also Chief of DNA, The Department of Nourishment Arts® at The Center for Discovery where he works to raise awareness about healthy eating for children and adults with developmental disabilities. He is the founder of some of New York’s best-loved Italian restaurants, including Beppe and Maremma.

Read an Excerpt

Semolina Gnocchi (Gnocchi Alla Romana)

In Rome, Thursdays are the day when many restaurants and home cooks serve gnocchi in this style, a local specialty. The traditional presentation is to layer the circles of pasta in overlapping rings into a dome shape. Here, they are in a single layer for better browning. In Sardinia, semolina gnocchi are known as pillas and are sauced with meat ragu and grated pecorino Sardo and browned in the oven.

- 3 1/2 cups (825 ml) whole milk

- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

- 1/2 pound (225 g) semolina

- 1 large egg, at room temperature

- 2 egg yolks

- 2 ounces (55 g), or about 3⁄4 cup, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese or Grana Padano cheese, plus extra for sprinkling on top

- 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, softened

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 2-inch (5-cm) round cookie cutter; 2-quart (1.9-L) shallow baking dish or gratin dish

YIELD: about forty 2-inch (5-cm) gnocchi, serves 6 to 8

1. Bring milk with salt and nutmeg to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart (1.9- to 2.8-L) heavy saucepan (not aluminum, which will discolor the mix) over moderately low heat. Add semolina in a slow stream while constantly stirring to prevent lumps.

2. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or a heavy whisk until the mixture begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes (mixture will be very stiff).

3. Remove from heat, cool slightly, then beat in eggs and yolks. Beat in 1/2 cup (50 g) of the cheese and 3 tablespoons (45 g) of the butter, and stir or whisk until mixture is smooth.

4. Spread gnocchi mixture into a 1/2-inch (1-cm)–thick slab on an oiled or parchment paper–lined baking sheet using a lightly oiled silicone spatula. Press plastic wrap or parchment paper over top and smooth the top with the palms of your hands. Chill until cold and firm, about 1 hour. This amount fills a 10 x 15- inch (25 x 38-cm) jelly-roll pan perfectly.

5. Preheat the oven to 450ºF (230ºC, or gas mark 8). Rub a medium shallow baking dish (or a French gratin dish) with 1 tablespoon (15 g) of butter.

6. Have ready a bowl of cold water. Cut out "coins" from gnocchi mixture using a 2-inch (5-cm) ridged or plain round cookie cutter. Rinse the cutter in water after each cut. Reserve the scraps. At the end, gather all the scraps together and push them together to form another small 1/2-inch (1-cm)–thick slab and cut out more coins.

7. Gently transfer the coins (they will be soft) to the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and dot with the remaining butter. (You may cover and refrigerate the gnocchi up to 2 days before baking. Allow 40 minutes for baking.)

8. Bake the gnocchi in the upper third of the oven 25 minutes, or until the gnocchi are slightly puffed and lightly browned. If desired, place under a preheated broiler for 2 minutes to brown the top, standing by to make sure the tops don’t burn. Let the gnocchi stand 5 minutes to firm up before serving.

Table of Contents

Foreword
Introduction
 
Part I: The Basics        6
Chapter One: Pasta Basics      6
Selecting Ingredients  8
Water  8
Eggs    9
Wheat  12
Pasta Flour Mix           16
Grinding Chickpeas and Whole Grains          18
 
Chapter Two: Making Pasta Dough from Wheat and Other Flours   18
Basic Egg Pasta Dough by Hand       20
Basic Egg Pasta Dough Using a Heavy-Duty Stand Mixer   22
Basic Egg Pasta Dough Using a Food Processor       23
Using Other Flours to Make Pasta      24
Whole Wheat Pasta Dough     24
Buckwheat Pasta Dough        25
Rye Pasta Dough        26
 
Cornmeal-Chipotle Pasta Dough        26
Semolina Pasta Dough            26
Methods for Forming Pasta    27
Hand-Stretched Pasta Dough 28
Rolling Pasta Dough with a Sheeter   30
 
Chapter Three: Flavoring Pasta Dough           33
Roasted Red Pepper Pasta Dough      34
Asparagus Dough       36
Spinach Pasta Dough (Pasta Verde)   36
Red Beet Pasta Dough           37
Squash Pasta Dough   38
Red Wine Pasta Dough          39
Porcini Mushroom Pasta Dough         39
Saffron-White Wine Pasta Dough      40
Squid Ink Pasta Dough           40
Chocolate Pasta Dough          41
Lemon-Pepper Pasta Dough   41

Part II: The Pasta        43
Chapter Four: Dumplings       43
Potato Gnocchi           44
Semolina Gnocchi (Gnocchi alla Romana)     46
Ravioli Gnudi 47
Matzo Balls     49
Spaetzle           50
Passatelli         52
 
Chapter Five: Pasta Sheets     53
Maltagliati       54
Laminated Parsley Pasta         55
Lasagna           56
Cannelloni       60
 
 
Chapter Six: Cut Pasta            62
Hand-Rolled and Cut Alsatian Nouilles         65
Cappellini        67
Porcini Tagliatelle       68
Straw and Hay                        69
Pappardelle and Tagliolini      70
Pasta alla Chitarra       72
Buckwheat Pizzoccheri           73
Japanese Udon Noodles         74
 
Chapter Seven: Specialty Hand-Formed Pasta           75
Ricotta Cavatelli from Puglia 76
Sardinian Malloreddus            78
Genoese Chestnut Corzetti     81
Garganelli        82
Chinese Cat’s Ear Noodles (Mao Er Duo)     83
Pugliese Orecchiette   83
Umbrian Ombrichelli  86
Greek Trahana 87
 
Chapter Eight: Stuffed Pasta  89
Making Ravioli Using a Plaque          92
Tortelloni         94
Tortellini          95
Caramelle        98
Pierogi 99
Pot Stickers     102
Ukrainian Sour Cherry Vareniki         104
Genoese Pansotti        105
Turkish Manti  107
Siberian Pelmeni         109
Giant Asparagus Raviolo with Soft-Cooked Egg      110
 
Glossary
Resources
Index
Acknowledgments
About the Author and Photographer

Recipe

Semolina Gnocchi (Gnocchi Alla Romana)

In Rome, Thursdays are the day when many restaurants and home cooks serve gnocchi in this style, a local specialty. The traditional presentation is to layer the circles of pasta in overlapping rings into a dome shape. Here, they are in a single layer for better browning. In Sardinia, semolina gnocchi are known as pillas and are sauced with meat ragu and grated pecorino Sardo and browned in the oven.

- 3 1/2 cups (825 ml) whole milk

- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

- 1/2 pound (225 g) semolina

- 1 large egg, at room temperature

- 2 egg yolks

- 2 ounces (55 g), or about 3⁄4 cup, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese or Grana Padano cheese, plus extra for sprinkling on top

- 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, softened

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 2-inch (5-cm) round cookie cutter; 2-quart (1.9-L) shallow baking dish or gratin dish

YIELD: about forty 2-inch (5-cm) gnocchi, serves 6 to 8

1. Bring milk with salt and nutmeg to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart (1.9- to 2.8-L) heavy saucepan (not aluminum, which will discolor the mix) over moderately low heat. Add semolina in a slow stream while constantly stirring to prevent lumps.

2. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or a heavy whisk until the mixture begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes (mixture will be very stiff).

3. Remove from heat, cool slightly, then beat in eggs and yolks. Beat in 1/2 cup (50 g) of the cheese and 3 tablespoons (45 g) of the butter, and stir or whisk until mixture is smooth.

4. Spread gnocchi mixture into a 1/2-inch (1-cm)–thick slab on an oiled or parchment paper–lined baking sheet using a lightly oiled silicone spatula. Press plastic wrap or parchment paper over top and smooth the top with the palms of your hands. Chill until cold and firm, about 1 hour. This amount fills a 10 x 15- inch (25 x 38-cm) jelly-roll pan perfectly.

5. Preheat the oven to 450ºF (230ºC, or gas mark 8). Rub a medium shallow baking dish (or a French gratin dish) with 1 tablespoon (15 g) of butter.

6. Have ready a bowl of cold water. Cut out "coins" from gnocchi mixture using a 2-inch (5-cm) ridged or plain round cookie cutter. Rinse the cutter in water after each cut. Reserve the scraps. At the end, gather all the scraps together and push them together to form another small 1/2-inch (1-cm)–thick slab and cut out more coins.

7. Gently transfer the coins (they will be soft) to the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and dot with the remaining butter. (You may cover and refrigerate the gnocchi up to 2 days before baking. Allow 40 minutes for baking.)

8. Bake the gnocchi in the upper third of the oven 25 minutes, or until the gnocchi are slightly puffed and lightly browned. If desired, place under a preheated broiler for 2 minutes to brown the top, standing by to make sure the tops don’t burn. Let the gnocchi stand 5 minutes to firm up before serving.

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