Review: Portuguese Synagogue

Tell me: What’s this place all about? Just east of the city center, in the Jewish Cultural Quarter, you’ll find one of Europe’s largest and oldest active synagogues. The monumental red-brick building, dating from 1675, is part of a sprawling courtyard complex that takes up an entire city block. The synagogue’s magnificent interior looks much as it did more than three centuries ago, with its original towering stone columns, vaulted timber ceiling, and wooden pews surrounding a massive Torah ark made of gleaming wood. The building still has no electricity—evening services are illuminated by hundreds of candles in the large brass chandeliers—and the plank floor is dusted with sand, a Dutch tradition that muffles the sound of footsteps. As the site is quite large, there’s usually not a queue for tickets, though it’s advisable to buy them online. Do keep in mind that it’s closed Saturday, when services are held, and during the Jewish holidays.

What’s it like being there? The sheer size of the synagogue and the beauty of its interior will leave you awestruck. As it is still an active house of worship, visitors are asked to behave respectfully.

Is there a guide involved? Only private guided tours of the synagogue complex are available and they’re pricey—starting at €80 (about $84) for up to six people, not including the cost of admission. Instead, opt for the free audio guide, which includes a map for a self-guided tour of the old Jewish neighborhood.

Who comes here? Visitors exploring the Jewish Cultural Quarter, since a single ticket nets you admission to all the sites (which include the Jewish Museum) for up to one month.

Did it meet expectations? Beyond the synagogue, you can visit many of the outbuildings, including the mikvah (ritual baths), the cantor’s office, and the smaller winter synagogue (which has electricity, light, and heat). It’s also worth seeing the basement treasure chambers, packed with ceremonial items such as gold-inlaid Torah coverings, menorahs, ornate costumes, and precious religious objects—which, like the synagogue itself, remarkably survived during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands in 1940.

So then what, or who, do you think it’s best for? For those interested in Jewish history, it’s a must-do. If you want to experience the spectacle of the synagogue with its thousand-odd illuminated candles, attend one of its evening candlelight concerts.