When it comes to couture, Iris Van Herpen is a creative powerhouse. From 3D-printing to laser-cutting, her work sits at the climactic intersection between technology and nature, adorning the bodies of Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Tilda Swinton.
Unlike many of her high fashion counterparts, beauty is not used to accessorise or compliment the dutch designer's sculptural silhouettes: it is an extension of it, especially when it comes to hair. From harnessing the power of biomimetics (the imitation of nature's biological processes) to translating classic couture techniques, Iris Van Herpen's approach to hair is utterly unique and one that has delivered other-worldly illusions for many fashion seasons gone by.
'The very first thing I did with Iris? We laser cut the hair. She does a lot of laser cutting,' says Aveda's Senior Vice President of Professional Global Artistry, Antoinette Beenders, who has worked alongside Van Herpen on many an architectural beauty look. 'That was very much a reflection of Iris' design. For her latest couture show in Paris, Architectonics, we came up with a whole new technique of clamping, which is a three dimensional technique that makes the hair sit on top of the actual base of the head to create a new three dimensional ridge.'
The collaboration between Beenders and Van Herpen has been a symbiotic one, unifying the sustainable ethos and trailblazing attitude to innovation that both Aveda and Iris Van Herpen embody as brands.
'As an artist myself, I always think of hair as being the fabric of the body and that's why I think we have this connection,' Beenders adds. 'We have very similar ideals; we're both sustainable, we both are very inspired by nature and we both want to make sure that we make a difference within the world.'
Here, ELLE UK meets Iris Van Herpen to explore her next-generation approach to high fashion beauty and the future of hair through the lens of couture.
On why hair matters...
'Hair is a very inspiring materiality for me, I use it in my work in terms of texture and shape; it's an extension of our body and such an influential part in the making of beauty. Hair can be a form of art. Craftsmanship can be explored within hair. Within couture, I really look at my work in the light of art and craftsmanship and innovation and all these elements can be embodied within hair. There is a beautiful history within art and hair combined.'
On the Iris Van Herpen approach to hair...
'When I work on the collections, I have an approach of biomimicry, looking at nature not only from the perspective of beauty but also from the perspective of systems and the innovation that is within nature. From the perspective of science, but also from the perspective of art. I think all of that can be expressed in hair as well.'
'I always started on the materiality of the garment, doing a lot of experiments on materials, textures, structures, and then I start draping the garments. And somewhere in that process, when I have a better view on where the silhouette will go and the colours, then I can start thinking about hair because it needs to be aligned. It needs to come together. Somewhere midway I would say it starts to be activated within my head.'
On translating couture techniques for hair...
'It's very related to a lot of the techniques that are our couture garments. There is a lot of weaving, braiding... all of that can also be done in hair. It's beautiful when it has not the same texture but it's within the same universe that the textures of the garments are in. It's a symbiosis with the textures of the hair.'
On the duality of beauty...
'I think that Iris van Herpen women are about a certain fearlessness. There is a very free-spirited, innovative mindset that ties the IVF women together. That's really key to my designs as well. If someone comes to me and asked for a black tie dress then I cannot put my own soul into it. But when I feel that a client understands my work, I can find a relationship to their own being. That's the beauty of couture.'
'And there's always a duality; a certain classic beauty and body in elements of the way I design. But at the same time, I also try and push boundaries, but it's all in balance. My work is not about pushing boundaries for the sake of pushing boundaries'
'It happens in a certain moment where we feel it's important. Inspiration comes from in immateriality, where I try to create a dress almost made out of something that isn't physical, like a relationship with light or movement alone. It’s those very immaterial inspirations that can lead to a extension of finding where that beautiful person is.'
On the future of hair...
'I'm not a hair specialist myself but it's been really inspiring to see how the textures that we embed into couture, how Antoinette and the Aveda team were able to translate them into our techniques. And the sky's the limit, to be honest, like the laser cutting, even I didn't even imagine that was possible within hair and so much of the innovative braiding techniques and the weaving techniques and the three dimensionality within the textures without losing the hair itself.'
Aveda x Iris Van Herpen Aveda Nutriplenish Light Moisture in-Shower Essentials Set
Aveda x Iris Van Herpen Botanical Repair in-Shower Strengthening Essentials Rich Set
Aveda x Iris Van Herpen Aveda Nutriplenish Deep Moisture in-Shower Essentials Set
'I think that's important balance as well. It's not about putting something on your head. It's really about using the hair and expressing the same artistry as the couture. I think the innovation possibilities are really in that collaborative spirit.'
