©
Servane Rigault
Madagascar Travel Guide
©
Servane Rigault
The primary point of access to begin or end an expedition to Masoala National Park, one of the richest nature reserves in Madagascar, Antalaha provides an interesting and pleasant stopover in the north-east of the island.
Stormy skies permitting, the choice of a plane trip will allow you to fly over a nature that stretches as far as the eye can see, bordered by a turbulent ocean. Indeed, in addition to its more famous appellations of "the Vanilla Coast" and "the Pirate Coast", the peninsula is also known as "the Cyclone Coast".
On the other hand, if you have opted for the overland route from Cap-Est or Ratsianarana, the village where the track ends before the part of Masoala National Park that is only accessible on foot, you will have to submit to a trying day in a bush taxi, but one that holds the promise of new encounters and a journey rich in adventure.
For example, it will be the opportunity to observe the co-pilots of the driver of your "bâché" (Peugeot pick-ups for the most part) aiding the passage of your vehicle by filling the holes in the track and adjusting the beams during the journey. Or to participate in river crossings with the help of a long pole to move the vehicle and its load on improvised ferries. And, of course, it will provide the occasion to slowly and patiently immerse yourself in scenes of the day-to-day rural life of the coastal Betsimsaraka people! When the bush comes to an end, you will come up against the runway of Antalaha airport, nestled in its lush green setting.
At first sight, Antalaha is a small, quiet town, but a very pleasant one. To tell the truth, the market appears listless and devoid of interest. But Antalaha will seduce you by its nearness to the sea, even if its access is more favourable to bringing dhows ashore, rather than than the joys of a seaside resort.
The water is rich in fish and fishing is one of the main activities of this coastal population. However, Antalaha has built a reputation for its expertise in artisanal shipbuilding, a family tradition for generations. Today, motor dhows are still used to carry goods by sea to other coastal cities, including Tamatave.
A flourishing place at the end of the French colonisation due to the construction of its port, this small town has an end-of-the-world atmosphere and truly benefits from its strategic position. It has exported more than 50% of the world production of vanilla since the second half of the twentieth century. Along the ocean front, a few opulent colonial mansions throne over the bay, facing the horizon. They bear witness to the economic bonanza of the production and export of this capricious orchid. Antalaha distils a delicious fragrance of vanilla.
Introduced on the island of Madagascar in 1881, "Bourbon vanilla" quickly acquired a choice place in world production until the 1980s, thanks to a terrain that is favourable for the development of its best aromas.
Unfortunately, today the Big Island has encountered difficulties that make it difficult to meet increasing global demand. With the industrialisation of vanilla-flavoured ice cream and "Vanilla Coke", the local production is not sufficient to meet the needs of world consumption. Inflation once again threatens the Malagasy economy.
If you want to visit a vanilla workshop, you will have to undertake a real treasure hunt. In fact, despite its title of "vanilla capital", Antalaha has no tourism infrastructure, such as museums. Visiting is a typically western phenomenon. Nevertheless, the employees will happily show you the recipe of this divine fragrance.
Once you are in on the secret, you will certainly want to feast on lobster at the "Corail" restaurant, where Sam, the proprietor, will serve you a few cold beers and his "rhum-arrangé", for a carefree and nonchalant evening, in the image of this region that is lost between the bush and the ocean.
