Why Cognac Belongs On Your Bar Cart

Odds are, if you're a drinker, you enjoy a stiff pour of something aged and neat now and again. Like bourbon, scotch, dark rum, or aged tequilas, a glass of good Cognac is something you'll want to linger over. Once considered "the king of all after-dinner drinks," Cognac is worth getting to know if you're a fan of dark spirits.

What Is Cognac?

Cognac is a category of Brandy name named for the Cognac region where it is produced. This grape-based distillate is a protected French appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC), which requires the adherence to specific rules during production of the spirit. Cognac must be made from Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanc, or Colombard grapes; distilled twice in a copper pot still; and aged in Limousin or Tronçais oak for at least two years.

In virtually any good Cognac, you will find an initial burst of fruit due to its grape base; a round, supple smoothness, as wood transforms the brandy; and true nuance, thanks to the careful art of blending the refined spirit.

What is Cognac made of?

Brandy, in the broadest sense, is any spirit distilled from fruit. Cognac is made from grapes from the geographically protected Cognac region of Southwestern France. Cognac territory is divided into six distinct appellations; of these, Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne are most highly prized due to the chalkiness of their soil and the fruity, floral aromas that result from it. 

Most Cognac houses, as producers are known, source externally, buying already-distilled eaux-de-vie; the art, so goes tradition, is in the aging and blending. But these houses tend to work with the same growers and distillers over years if not generations.

The juice from the grapes is fermented into wine, then distilled twice, to create what's known as an eau-de-vie, or "water of life," the poetic French term for an unaged brandy. 

Cognac houses bring together the separate eaux-de-vie and lay them to rest in oak barrels, where they might spend anywhere from years to decades. There are government-mandated distinctions for the classification of Cognac — the youngest eau-de-vie used in the blend of a VS ("Very Special') must be at least two years old; VSOP ("Very Superior Old Pale"), at least four; XO, ten. Remember, however, that that's the minimum age requirement. Rémy Martin VSOP, for instance, blends 200 eaux-de-vie and includes brandies with up to 12 years on oak. Napoléon Cognac is similar in age to XO Cognac but is not legally an official age statement.

A long-aged Cognac will likely be among the oldest things you'll ever drink. Rémy's XO blends eaux-de-vie up to 37 years of age, averaging 25 years. Dudognon's line of "Heritage" Cognacs have a minimum of 40 years.

How to drink cognac

Cognac is versatile and can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or in a cocktail. While some brandies can be pricey, they're no more so than other high-end spirits. The time Cognac spends in a barrel inevitably entails a higher price tag. 

For a Cognac to sip slowly and savor — neat or on the rocks — try Ferrand 10 Generations Cognac ($61) from one of the most esteemed Cognac houses in the region. Made exclusively from the Ugni Blanc grape, it starts fresh and fruity but ends with a distinct spice, almost in the manner of a rye; this is a whiskey-lover's brandy, but with the fruit-tinged delicacy we love from Cognac.

For a pricier bottle, consider Tercet ($139) from Rémy Martin. To create this Cognac, Rémy's cellar master Baptiste Loiseau identified eaux-de-vie from one of their partner vineyards that were particularly fruit-forward. As a finished Cognac, it's bold on the palate with fruit and spice, bright and vivid throughout, and a bit higher-proof than Rémy's standard line.

If you want to explore the world of Cognac cocktails, pick up a bottle of H by Hine ($47). Moderately priced and nicely balanced, it's developed for bartenders and hits every note we love from a good Cognac — fresh and fruity initially, bold and rounded on the palate. A perfect entry-level sipper, but it shines in a classic cocktail, like a Sidecar.