Main Sheet Blocks on 383/384: Seeking Advice

I'm replacing my boom and have noticed something for the first time ... it looks like the previous owner changed the main sheet blocking. The photo below (of Rolf Peterson's boat) shows how it came from the factory (I think).



On my boat, I can see where the previous owner re-routed the sheet as shown by the Red line. He moved block 'A' to just aft of the mast, and the sheet continues forward on the boom to a block just aft of the mast.

I've no idea why he did this ... I'm guessing he wanted to use the deck space there for something.

One issue is that the main sheet chafes against the boom vang (symbolized with the green line). So I'd like to move my blocks back to how they were - and how they are on Rolf's boat.

Questions for the forum:
1. Can you think of a reason not to move them back to the original position?
2. Where Block 'A' is attached to the deck: will this require a backing plate? I.e. do I need to remove the headliner in the cabin and put a plate there? Or just do the normal overdrill/epoxy procedure for cored decks?

Thanks!
-Mark

1. I have not issues with the sheet the way it is on my boat, so, no reasons not to move it back.
2. I am 99% positive the block has a backing plate. The headliners were not hard to remove, I've done it numerous times, I ran lots of lines aft after thw picture you posted, and put in backing plates here and there. The original might still be there. The headliner is "stick built", just unscrew the battans and it comes down except where the lines are, if you still have the original lights. You will be able to work around them, if needed.

Mark - my 383 is set up just like Rolfs. Yes, you need a backing plate, and not a bad idea to do the overdrill / epoxy trick on the bolt holes as its a plywood core. There can be a lot of pressure on the mid boom sheeting set up. I have no idea why the PO would make the change to run the line forward. I see no advantage, only the possibility to loose your footing while at the mast when working. I have new bigger Garhauer blocks & traveler I am very happy with. Dave

Rolf
In the photo of your boat that Mark posted there is no large window. Was she built that way or did you or someone change it to a smaller opening port?

Jim

Now if you were storing a dink behind the mast that would be a reason to move the sheets. Well ya just know there is a old backing plate still there, But check , don't guess..There is alot of pressure on that block , Backing plate and fender washers..!

Jim,
I have a 1982 383 - and I'm 99% sure that none of us owners have changed the ports. On my boat there are 9 and all the same size except for the head which is sized the same, but deeper "spigot" I believe its called.

Rolf, If you check " New Found Metals " they make the ports you should have.They are at every boat show. I put them on my Sabre they are pricey so i did 2 at a time.. For removal of the old ones try some " Marine Formula " this stuff eats 5200 and silicone, made in Florida . Spray one day let it set and remove the next day . No harm to paint or you !
They are beautiful all 316 SS . They open with a spring , they do not leak and if ya get the screens it will cut down on bugs
There are members here who have changed to these. They can give you advice...

Thanks Lee, sorry I was not clear. I was just saying that the last 2 owners and myself have not changed the SIZE of the ports on my boat. I swapped in the NFM ports - and am very happy with them, they are so much easier to get closed when the rain starts in particular. Instead of 3x9 knobs to turn around and around and around, I have 2x9 levers to turn 3/4 turn. Still have the old Balmer overhead hatches with 4 knobs each, though. And thanks for the tip on "Marine Formula", it sounds like a product that will need to find its way into my solvent bucket.