A favourite with sherry-seeking day-trippers from Seville and Cadiz, this Andalusian city is too often rushed. But its pick-and-mix architecture (a legacy of Moorish then Christian rule), sun-soaked squares and artsy wine cellars are best appreciated over two or more days. New design-led boutique accommodation has modernised the hotel scene and old-school tapas tabancos rub up against Michelin-starred restaurants. Jerez is evolving, but the popularity of its two biggest exports — sherry and flamenco — remains unchallenged, particularly as the fortified wine shakes off its “just for grannies” image.
What to do
● Jerez is small enough to explore on foot, and since there are few English-speaking tours, it’s best to go self-guided. The Plaza de la Asunción is a patchwork of Renaissance, neoclassical and gothic architecture, including the San Dionisio Church, one of the city’s oldest. Nearby, the grand 17th-century cathedral displays a similar architectural blend (£6; catedraldejerez.es).
● The battlement-topped 12th-century Alcazar is a stunningly preserved example of Almohad architecture built under the Moors. For a drone-like view, ascend the stone tower and watch city life unfold through the 360-degree camera obscura (£6; jerez.es/alcazar).
● The Lola Flores Cultural Centre, a museum dedicated to the celebrated life of the flamenco bailaora, opened in March. It’s a fitting tribute to her talents and passion. The exhibition includes an intriguing collection of personal items, including her wedding dress and bright ruffled bata de cola skirt (£9; jerez.es).
● Follow in Flores’ footsteps and take a flamenco class with local bailaora Patri Manes; her decades of experience and saintly patience ensure you’re in good hands. Learn about flamenco’s Romani roots and influence on Spanish culture before diving into the quick tempo zapateado (£23; airbnb.co.uk/experiences).
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● Get acquainted with the liquid gold that made Jerez rich at a sherry cellar. Art fans should visit the Estevez Group, where tastings are paired with a viewing of their private art collection, including works by Miro, Dalí and 100 sketches by Picasso (tours from £44pp; grupoestevez.es).
● Watch a “horse ballet” at the world-renowned Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. Admire the power and grace of the Pura Raza Española horses as they “piaffe” and “pas de deux” across the arena. Parisian architect Charles Garnier designed the pink Recreo de las Cadenas palace inside the grounds (from £20; realescuela.org).
The coolest neighbourhood
Other cool European barrios come with low-lit bars and grungy hangouts, but the charm of San Miguel is more genial. Smart residential streets snake off Plaza La Cruz Vieja and wine-flushed locals spill out of trendy tabanco Abaceria Cruz Vieja (tapas from £2.50; fb.com/abaceriacruzvieja.jerez). This is flamenco’s heartland and sculptures of legendary local artists ensure no visitor forgets (find Lola Flores’ family home on Sol St). At the convent of San José on Barja St, across from the wedding-cake tiers of the San Miguel church, nuns sell homemade biscuits through a hatch in the wall (from £3).
Where to eat and drink
Las Banderillas
The queue for a table at this top-choice tabanco starts to form an hour before opening, but its meat-heavy tapas (try the oxtail) and tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) are worth the wait. A seat at the glossy red bar is best for lapping up the lively atmosphere and the bullfighting-themed decor (tapas from £3.50; fb.com/tabancolasbanderilla).
A Mar
This well-regarded seafood spot gets its tiger prawns from the celebrated shores of nearby Sanlucar; they’re chargrilled, showered with olive oil and salt, then served immediately. The house white wine, Barbazul, is a hit pairing with most of the menu. Dishes can be ordered as tapas, or half or full portions (mains from £12; a-marrestaurante.com).
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El Gallo Azul
Given to Jerez by sherry power-players the Domecq family in 1927, the neo-Mudejar style Gallo Azul straddles the central intersection of Calle Larga and Calle Santa Maria. Its three-tiered semi-circular design and exposed brickwork now houses a trendy gastro-bar that buzzes with smartly dressed locals and heat-weary tourists (wine from £2; elgalloazuljerez.com).
Bar Mi Rincon
Every morning hungry locals flock to this unassuming kiosk just off Plaza del Arenal for strong coffee and a quick bite. For a traditional Andalusian breakfast, order the tostada con tomate y aceite — toast served with olive oil and grated tomatoes (coffee from £1.50).
Mantua
Local lad Israel Ramos heads up this Michelin-starred joint where refined local flavours burst from delicately presented plates. Ramos is famously tight-lipped about the individual courses on his two tasting menus (Clay and Limestone), preferring to reveal his creations to guests on arrival (tasting menus from £90; restaurantemantua.com).
Churreria Manuel
For a sweet treat join the queue for churros at this popular vendor outside the central market. Dip them in a cup of sugary Cola Cao (hot chocolate) from the café next door (churros £2).
Where to stay
Suites Alfonso X
Standing equidistant between the central market and train station, this budget boutique hotel has a prime location. A light-filled courtyard wows on arrival and soft neutrals dial up the tranquillity inside the nine suites; all have a living area and kitchenette. There’s also a pool framed with terracotta planters and wooden deckchairs (room-only doubles from £72; suitesalfonsox.com).
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Astuto Boutique Jerez
Between the convents and gothic churches of the Santiago barrio, adults-only Astuto is sophisticated with rattan lampshades and modern design in spacious rooms. The hotel’s main draw is its rooftop bar with punchy sherry-filled cocktails and views across the old town (room-only doubles from £72; astutoboutique.com).
Casa Palacio María Luisa
Housed in a grand 19th-century palace once famed for high-society frolicking, this is the smartest address in town (and its only five-star hotel). A coffered gold ceiling and immaculate stone façade are both original; the latter is best admired from the garden and terrace bar (the pisco sour is excellent). A marble lobby, fresh florals and quirky artwork inject a contemporary flair (room-only doubles from £186; casapalaciomarialuisa.com).
If you only do one thing
Watch a flamenco show. The best is El Pasaje; pre-book a table for the best view and to enjoy cured meat platters and sherry (tables from £27pp; tabancoelpasaje.com). If it’s fully booked, try La Bailaora (from £18; tablaoflamencojerez.com).
Emilia Harris was a guest of Casa Palacio María Luisa (casapalaciomarialuisa.com) and the Spanish Tourist Office (spain.info)
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