24 hours in Logroño, Rioja
Few places in Spain were as much of a surprise as Logroño, Rioja.
We hadn’t planned to visit this particular Spanish city. In fact, we were oblivious to the very existence of Logroño until a recommendation in an Andalusia taberna had us making a hasty change to our Spain itinerary (coming soon).
Knowing little, we anticipated a compact and quaint town, similar to nearby Haro. Oh how wrong we were. Instead, Logroño was a whirlwind of busy streets and countless bars, of clinking glasses and endless tapas. Being the capital city of La Rioja, Spain’s most famous wine producing region, Logroño it appears is a town where vino aficionados gather to enjoy long weekends indulging in the areas most famous export.
And yet, amongst the revellers are also unmistakable signs of a rich history – the towering cathedral, ancient gateways, narrow streets, and a pretty plaza. This is also one of the most important stops on the Pilgrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela and there are both Camino markers and brave walkers with their heavy backpacks all over Logroño.
Was 24-hours in Logroño enough? Frankly no, and a return trip is already in the works. But over the course of a day and night we did experience two vastly different sides to this Spanish city that we loved. So, here’s a short guide to Logroño, Rioja and what you need to know in terms of bars, vineyards, what to see, and where to stay.
Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive (we didn’t have enough time to see all the city) but it will give you a solid starting point and useful tips for your Logroño trip.
Things to do in Logroño
Sample Rioja in the historic town | Being the capital of La Rioja, it would be entirely remiss if you didn’t sample a glass of this wonderful Spanish wine whilst here. Happily, there are heaps of bars to choose from in Logroño which offer this wonderful tipple. Choose from vino tinto (red wine) or vino blanco (white), and if you can, choose a reserva for the deepest and best flavour.
Whilst I enjoyed the bars around Calle Laurel (find it here) and this is an excellent place to start, simply follow your feet around the old town till you find a bar you like.
Spend a day at a winery | If you love Rioja and want to fully immerse yourself in its flavour and history, then a visit to a vineyard is a must. Within the vineyard’s you can experience Rioja tastings, wine flights, barrel room tours, and even wine pairings with tapas. And of course, a little Rioja history.
Sadly we didn’t have time to visit a vineyard this time, but its top of my list for when we get back to Logroño. Now, as my love of all things Rioja started with Campo Viejo, their sustainable and beautiful vineyard on the outskirts of Logroño is my top choice. You can find more information and book a tour here. Or for more choice, find a list of all Logroño wineries here.
Explore the old town | Whilst it may be tricky to pull yourself away from the temptation of rioja and tapas, Logroño’s historic centre is absolutely worth exploring. A few places to see are:
Plaza del Mercado | best seen early in the morning, this pretty plaza with its terraces is next to the cathedral. Find it here.
Muralla del Revellín | Logroño was once a walled city, and this is the best place to see the remains of its medieval walls. There’s also an ancient archway, once a gate into the old city. Find it here.
Parliament of La Rioja | whilst the inside of a government office may not be overly appealing, the ornate façade around the doorway of this former convent is nonetheless gorgeous. Find it here.
Church of San Bartolomé | construction on this Romaneque church began in the 12th-century, making it Logroño’s oldest church. Plus, the intricately carved doorway is a beautiful example of gothic sculpture. The church is free to enter and can be found here.
Calle Portales | cutting through the heart of the old town, visit early in the morning to appreciate the arcades and pastel-coloured apartments lining this 15th century street. Later, this street becomes an atmospheric hotbed of bars and restaurants. Find it here.
Tip / Once here, you’ll see that one of the most unique things about Logroño is how much the city changes throughout the day. To see the incredible architecture and visit the churches at their quietest, explore early in the morning before the streets swell with visitors. During siesta is the best time for an ice cream and is equally quiet. Then in the evening prepare for the narrow alleys and plazas to transform with a burst of people and noise.
Sta. Mª de La Redonda Procathedral | It’s almost impossible to miss the soaring pinnacles of Logroño’s stunning cathedral. With origins in the 12th-century, the cathedral has been redesigned and rebuilt extensively over the years and the end result is an architectural masterpiece. Entry to the church is free, though opening times may vary by church services. If you walk towards the centre of the old town, you’ll almost certainly encounter this impressive building, though you can also find it here.
Indulge in tapas | Given its location in Northern Spain, in Logroño these delicious morsels are actually called pinchos or pintxos, rather than tapas. But the theory is much the same – small bites of delicious food.
There are honestly heaps of tapas bars in Logroño’s historic centre, and at first you’ll be tempted to choose one from the many options on Cala Portales (the main street through the old town). However, I’d very much recommend taking a wander down the side streets, where tucked away eateries tend to offer the tastiest dishes.
Many of the most popular tapas bars in Logroño are found on Calle Laurel and its surrounding alleys. At night, these narrow lanes are transformed into rows of tapas bars, most with glowing recommendations. Whilst you’ll find an excellent spot simply by following your feet, consider these options as a good place to start: Blanco Y Negro, La Tavina, Atiborre, and La Anjana. Or, at the other side of town and near the cathedral, Umm No Sólo Tapas, Bar Travesía, and Envero are all top-rated tapas options.
Afterwards, if you have a sweet tooth, try a Logroño heladeria (ice cream shop). My personal favourite is Heladería Delizia (here).
Take a walk along the green way | This trail, linking urban Logroño with a far greener landscape, takes you into the heart of the rural vineyards for beautiful countryside scenery and spectacular views over the River Ebro. This 5km pathway runs along a Via Verde, a route that was once old train tracks but is now a gravel trail for walking and cycles. Access it here, in the El Cortijo area.
Alternatively, if you’re looking for a longer hike, then walk a section of the much longer GR-99 Ebro Nature Trail. At 1,280km in length you’ve got miles of paths to stretch your legs on – but you can join the Logroño section here, from Parque del Ebro.
Or, if like us you’re struggling for time but would like some fresh air, then visit Parque del Ebro (here) for a wander along the river with it’s wonderful bridges.
How to visit Logroño
Located a couple of hours south from Bilbao and west of Pamplona, Logroño is the perfect add-on to any North of Spain trip. Or, as we would love to do, visit Logroño as part of a road trip around La Rioja and its gorgeous villages & vineyards. Also, if you’re a lover of all things Rioja, be sure to visit the nearby town of Haro - considered Rioja’s wine capital, there’s a whole area dedicated to bodegas and wine tasting. Read my guide on how to visit Haro.
